Hello everyone! This is my first here and probaly only will post a few more times to keep you in the loop. I'm sick and tired of my 06 CRD that when the turbo gets replaced, its up for sale. I'm at a big disadvantage here as I know how TDI's are supposed to run, I've owned diesels for years and currently own a 05 2.0 TDI Passat, wifes car. I truley can't believe how much power and a real pleasure to drive that car is that when I get into my crap bucket my wife laughs at it and says..What did you do...Anyways I've had replaced EGR, Alternator, Rear Rotors, Ball joints and a Turbo Charger (on back order) and all this under 9600 miles! My question is simple, how much does all these part cost? Does any one know where to find part numbers and pricing from? The dealership wont tell me, its on warranty and don't worry about it. Thats not the point, I want to know how much. But does any one know of a sucker to buy this mint rig...

I don't think you will get much advanced pricing info on engine parts. Keep in mind these parts are common in Europe and will also fluctuate with exchange rate changes. Would venture to guess that the turbo is at least a grand. When I had my bus fleet, never bought a replacement turbo because I had a local engine shop to rebuild them. As long as the housing isn't damaged thay can install a new bearing pack, shaft & seals. In this case, a VGT is a different situation because they tend to loose vanes when they fail causing housing damage so they can't be rebuilt.

What happend to your turbo to cause them to replace it? Seals leak/pass oil? VGT vanes stick from oil & soot coking?

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

RFCD,
Its been a long frustrating road explaining how TDI/CRD engines operate to the Dodge tech writers. I've been told there are no glow plugs and the turbo is standard fixed boost (non-VGT), I've had to argue every step of the way and just plain tired of the whole experience. My threshold and tolerance is high for things that arn't right and will go along with it to a certain point with the understanding things arn't perfect from day one. Volkswagon Diesels have been my choice from day one and yes they are quirky and have thier fair share of problems and yes you have to decarb the intake manifold at 80000 KM's, that's the way it goes. But in return, its fun like hell to drive and the mechanical working make sense and maintain. The passat 2.0 TDI engine feels so much stronger, I can't describe it, no comparison but different vehicle. The REAR rotors were just replaced, shot, finished, metal pushed and gouged. A typical sign of poor grade steel probally from south America with a low tensile strength and low rockwell. My spider senses are tingling and its time to flog this thing.

The turbo makes a grinding sound when hot underload greatest at 2500-3000 (up hill loudest). The turbo sounds fine in park with no engine load and when its just rev'd up, you can hear it whistle and sounds quite normal, sounds strong. But while underload in that RPM range it sounds like a baseball card in the spokes of your kids bike and its quite loud (I have video). The dealer thinks and I would agree the vacuum/solenoide is defective (maybe something else that controls it) controls the parameters of the vane assy movement and when. The vacuum assy can not be ordered seperatly from the turbo charger, its one part number? Which brings me to my original question, does any one have a parts break down for this engine? It's things like this that push me too far, its been a long road like I said cause the dealer original stated on the work order " it sounds like a Diesel", AAAARRRRR. Thats the story with the turbo, and when it finally gets here from back order, I'll let you know.

The Torque converter/ transmission, what am I supposed to say? My vehicle has the updated part numbers from the factory installed, build date early 06. My transmission had five gears from day one with the T/C lock up at 83 KPH. At 12000km it grew another gear and has two distinct lockups, one at 83 and the other at 103 which drops another 300 RPM, and yes while not in lock up mode its loose like a yo-yo, it'll always rev 1000 rpm at any road speed before it hooks up, anything to keep it out of the torque band. I can travel at 60 KPH floor it, release, floor it 2-3 times and the engine will rev up to 3700RPM and you can keep it there but the vehicle will not move faster? Whats with that? You should push the go-peddle and exactly that, it should go. My vehicle supposdly has the mod done thats why its not on recall and everything is ticky-boo...NOT! I'll tell everyone now the F37 is a farce and it won't hold. Its obvious engineers were given a catolog to work from and told to make it work as stated by somene here. Please keep in mind these are my opinions and in no way want to offend anyone, just want to tell my story, Thanks.

Going back to your VGT problem:
The reason I was asking is because we have over 200 VGT engines at work going through a rash of turbo failures. The engines are Detroit Diesel Series 50 "Clean Diesels" with virtually an identical emission arrangement. A common cause of failure is carbon build-up from inside the exhaust manifold or turbo housing breaking loose taking out a vane. Once this happens, the schrapnel usually causes even more damage. We even have a written SOP for cleaning the system including the EGR plumbing all the way through the intake manifold, looking for schrapnel before it has a chance to float a valve.

Your "baseball card in the spoke" scenerio sounds hauntingly familiar to our catastrophic failures. A piece of carbon is rattling around in the turbo housing or the carbon build-up is starting to catch the edge of the vanes when the turbo is spooling. This may also start with the appearance of a vaccuum controller not working correctly but the root problem is the vanes are coked-up or obstructed.

Want to take a wild stupid guess at the source of the carbon build-up? Oil + soot + heat = charcoal. It all goes back to allowing the engine to pass oil through the CAC, inhaled into the engine where it is not completely burned. Then, the oily soot coats & bakes into place in the exhaust manifold and turbo housing where it waits for the opportune time to ruin your day.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Yes, a very strong possibilty! I've had to decarbon my last TDI intake manifold and its pretty disgusting what goes through the engine. You have to make certain if your scraping out the intake ports on the head not to let ANY of that carbon fall in to the cylinder if the valves open. It will score the cylinder if it lodges in the right spot, its that hard! I'll be totally gob-smacked if my CRD is carboned to the point the turbo is suffering after 9600 miles. I might also add when the engine is under load in the suspect rpm range, you can slightly feel drag on the engine, like power is being drained from the engine. When it hits 3000 the noise is gone and the vehicle starts to move easier. Its hard to describe but you can hear and feel it if your in tune to the vehicle, something impossible for the dealer to understand in a 5 min test drive. The absolute worst thing for a VW TDI automatic is short trips not to warm the engine up fully and to baby it, it will carbon fast, but were still talking 50-60000 km's. I hope this is not a carbon problem as I don't think warranty will cover this, the turbo they will in my case but not to de-carbon an engine as many factors contribute to this. In this day and age problems like this should be non-existant, the 777 was designed on Catia and test flown in a span of 4 years....One of the most succesful aircraft to date, now thats using American technology.

One of the running chactoristics that drives me crazy about the CRD is how it can blast a cloud of black soot following a steady 50 mile expressway drive. Have never had a diesel load-up like this on the highway, maybe sitting in stop & go but not running up to temp on the expressway. Now usually take the time to blow it out before I park it. Getting a bad feeling about what I might find inside the turbo housing or trapped somewhere in the exhaust system. Probably just like the oil in the CAC, best not to look too close.

Can't even grasp your situation at just 9600 miles, unacceptable. What do you have for oil consumption? Oil in your CAC? Running any mods like Provent?

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Oil consumption is normal, had to top up the oil a couple of times between changes. No engine mods to vehicle. You cant touch the tube from the turbo to the intercooler without a mess. Help me out, CAC? Not fimiliar with the term.... Does the CRD have an EGR cooler to lower the gas temps? I really need to see a parts list to see how the engine systems function. I crawled around it but was unable to locate the fuel cooler and EGR gas cooler?

The CAC is the "Charged Air Cooler" hose that connects the ouput of the turbo to the intercooler.

Yes the CRD does have an EGR cooler to lower the gas temps. It also has an EGR and an EGR flow control valve.
The following thread I started will have a cut-away of the engine and also show you where the EGR and EGR flow control valve are located.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=13215

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2005 Black CRD Limited w/105,000 miles
Mann Provent 200, Airbox Mod, ORM Mod
New 545RFE, TC & Redesigned pump @ 25,020 miles
New EGR Flow Control Valve @ 25,020 miles
New Transfer Case input/output seals @ 32,787 miles
SEGR Kit @ 52,000 miles
SunCoast TC and Transgo Shift Kit @ 52,000 miles

Ah yes, I see Lou, the FCV is the anti-shudder on a VW. I would agree with MR Mopar stating your valve being clean, how many miles did it take to acumulate? I cleaned one on a Golf and it was virtually plugged solid, 2.0 ID reduced to .50, it was gross.

25K without running a Provent.

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2005 Black CRD Limited w/105,000 miles
Mann Provent 200, Airbox Mod, ORM Mod
New 545RFE, TC & Redesigned pump @ 25,020 miles
New EGR Flow Control Valve @ 25,020 miles
New Transfer Case input/output seals @ 32,787 miles
SEGR Kit @ 52,000 miles
SunCoast TC and Transgo Shift Kit @ 52,000 miles

You just answered my question. Passing oil through the turbo either by the closed crankcase vent or through the turbo seals (or both). I have mine to where it doesn't need topped-off between oil changes but it took some work. CAC = charged air cooling and the hose you can't touch without making a mess is part of the system. Maybe when they get a replacement turbo on it will clear-up some but I would definately get a Provent (or open vent) to cut down the slop in the CAC.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.