Seen a few posts stating that before(and even after) ULSD that the MAF needed to be cleaned regularly.

Anybody care to state basic instructions on how to do this?

I've got 16k on the odometer and it's seems like my mpg is going down. Even before winter fuel. I'm also seem to be getting more lag then ever and then at 1800 rpm, it just spins the tire off the darn thang!

Where is it located?
How to clean it?
What to watch out for?

Thanks,
WWV

06 Silver Sport.

It's not the MAF it's the MAP sensor. Read this thread thread http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... sc&start=0

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

It's the TMPS (temp and manifold pressure sensor, a.k.a. boost sensor), not the MAF (mass air flow sensor - just after the air cleaner assembly) The MAF is upstream of everything dirty so it shouldn't need any cleaning at all.

TMPS / Boost Sensor thread

Cheers
Duey

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2K9 Space Grey 335d Sport
2K1 Galaxy Blue Jetta TDI 5-sp

Unless you use an oil soaked air filter like K&N or other such filters and over oil them by mistake.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

[/quote]Unless you use an oil soaked air filter like K&N or other such filters and over oil them by mistake.[/quote]
guilty, I actually had the check engine light on for a few thousand miles and on a hunch cleaned the MAF, the light went out the next day.....

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Do know how much more dirt the K&N filter let in to the engine and actual HP & MPG increase the K&N does for a turbo diesel???? On VW turbo diesels tested with oil samples and on dyno and actual ISO testing with GM Duramax diesel engine they had such bad preformance as to be scary. The oil samples on VW diesels with the K&N filters had such a huge increase in Si (dirt) in the oil samples that was tested, the tester warned of need to change the oil ASAP and to check for major air leaks. Also when tested on a dyno a turbo diesel had only about <1/2 hp increase on a stock VW diesel, only increase was intake noise. If you would like to read the ISO test results it is posted here somewhere on the forum or I can email you a copy. The Duramax would scare anyone with any ability to read the report, and understand the findings. The jest of the report was nothing beats OEM for both cleanleness and airflow in a turbo diesel.

A short quote from the test artice:

people spend a lot of money on aftermarket filters based on the word of a salesperson or based on the misleading, incomplete or outright deceiving information printed on boxes and in sales literature. Gentlemen and Ladies, Marketing and the lure of profit is VERY POWERFUL! It is amazing how many people believe that better airflow = more power! Unless you have modifications out the wazoo, a more porous filter will just dirty your oil! Some will say " I have used aftermarket brand X for XXX # years with no problems. The PROBLEM is you spent a chunk of ching on a product that not only DID NOT increase your horsepower, but also let in a lot of dirt while doing it! Now how much is a lot? ANY MORE THAN NECESSARY is TOO MUCH!

I will get down off my soapbox now and return control to the other users.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

ok oldnavy, you are a very knowledgable guy but I have to ask you if you have links to these UOA tests with results before and after intsallation of the K&N. Not saying you are wrong, but I would like to see proof that the silica levels are really that much higher with a K&N. Everyone seems to put down K&N and I don't use them. I use the True-flow filter which I just installed recently.

Installing a higher flow filter is not going to yield a noticable hp or torque gain. When I installed a high-flow air intake on my 2004 Volvo S40 1.9 Turbo (gas) my highway fuel economy went from 29mpg to 34-35. This is significant. I did change my oil more often because I had the car chipped so I did it at 5000 instead of the 7500 Volvo recommended. So more air did do good for fuel economy. The fuel economy promptly decreased when I remove the high-flow system. It produced more intake noise, and I sold the car to my mother so I put the factory air box back on.

Here are the independant lab tests for filtering efficiency.






In general, you have to reduce efficiency to increase air flow. The only real question here is if this reduction in efficiency is really that significant. For us (or at least for me), I think we are looking for a little more mpg. So there are a couple of questions that come up when filtering efficiency is reduced.

1) Are reduced OCI nescessary based on the fact that most of us here use the 6250 OCI instead of the 12,500?

2) With proper installation and proper oiling, is there any noticable increase in mpg in our application?

Please do note that I am not claiming K&N or any other filters are better, but I would just like to see some firm results one way or the other, and then I would like to see these results posted in the FAQ so that we can have the data out there and let each person make his/her own informed decision. I still have my factory filter, so I may get a fumoto and do some UOA and other testing with both the filters installed to see what I come up with.



ON THE MAF:

I am pretty sure the MAF sensor is attached to the intake tube just after the air box with two phillips screws and has an arrow on it with the word 'flow' written under it. it is a cartridge type MAF that pulls out. Like others have stated you shouldn't need to clean it, but if you do, be sure to use MAF sensor cleaner and not some other type of clenaer as it may damage the MAF.

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

I have the report in word format, but I can't figure how to get the graphs to post here. I can email to you it if you like.

Just pull a sample of your oil when it comes oil change time then send it off and see if Si level is normal or above normal, seems like a great way to do the check. I will send off a sample of my CRD oil this week and see how it looks at about 8000 miles with all OEM filters as I want to do 10,000 mile oil changes. I would however like to try the AMSOIL synthetic type oil filer that some here are using, but I would like to see a sample of their oil first. However I will probably have to do that myself.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

PM Sent. I will see if I can figure out a way to post it. Thanks oldnavy.

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Due to the number of graphs, here is what I did. I converted it to pdf and posted it on the web for those interested. Follow the link below:

http://nbs.servebbs.com/duramax_aft.pdf

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

Well done shipmate, thanks for the help.

What is your impression?

The old style of AMSOIL air filter was tested and not the new synthetic fiber model now available, however I think it is the same or same type as AFE filter.

The VW's had about 500% to 1000% increase in Si in their oil when it was tested in the lab. This oil testing started out to be about soot levels in VW's and about 6 or 8 were doing the testing and all but one or two were using the K&N filter. All that it took to clear the Si problem up was to switch back to OEM filter. Man did it cause a stir on that forum, that was about 4 or 5 years ago. I have search for the posting but I guess they lost it when they did the big server switch and upgraded the forum.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Well, I think it doesn't look too good compared to the other filters. It does however fall in line with the initial efficiency rating that K&N states. It would appear as though filtering efficiency increases as the filter gets loaded which doesn't make much sense since air flow will also decrease as a result. Based on what I read there, it would appear as though the only benefit would be the ability to wash and re-use the filter, but if the UOA shows significantly higher si levels OCI may be reduced which may or may not canel out any cost savings from using the reusable filters...especially with the cost of synthetic oils today.

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

I like my True-flow but it's a PITA to clean as it takes a long time to dry (maybe a wet-vac will help). I keep a paper filter to run while it dries.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Good point, I hung onto my paper filter as well.

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06.5 Jetta TDI PKG 2 - Silver/Anth

Don't worry, I recently put a paper one in there.

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Good man.

Someday someone will come out with something better then OEM, but until then we have to watch out for the snake oil sellers.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

It seems the first thing many new diesel owners do is trash the stock filter system and add a K&N or other "super" filter. I think most like the way it looks when they open the hood. Ever price a new cummins,powerstroke or duramax engine, or our little champ? It is downright scary!

I have the stock filter on my 02 PSD which many claim is junk. My last analysis showed silicon <2.

It was caked. Not just dry either. It was a matted down solid lump. Had to pry some of it loose and then sprayed with heavy duty engine degreaser. Got it 98.9% clean, but still a dark color. Can't see gold like in pics....

Man, what am I in for? Should I just keep cleaning and hope for best?

I'm at 16k. Bought mid summer last year quickly put 11k on it with LSD. March 06 build date. Should this problem start to disapate now that I'm on ULSD?

I try to use power service as well. Probably 50% of time.

Thanks for the opinions.....and advice.

06 Sport.

WWV

If it were just a dirty sensor, I wouldn't be too concerned. It's just another maintenance item on the short list for oil change day.

What does have me concerned is this sensor is plugging for a reason and I doubt the mainfold enviornment where it lives is squeeky-clean. It wouldn't take much build-up in the intake or exhaust manifold to start causing problems.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.