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 Post subject: Cleaning EGR Valve and Ports
PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:17 pm 
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Any do-it-yourselfer's ever tried cleaning the EGR valve and ports themselves? If so, where can I learn how to do it?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 10:52 am 
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Location: Gateway to the Canadian Shield Minnesota
Just did it on the "Princess's" Oiler. Mainly I opened it up just to check the soot/sludge status.
She's only got 6G's on it and I fill it up with ONLY ULSD+a squirt or two of Stanadyne. There is no ULSD in Duluth at the lake so I make sure
I got 15 gallons on hand to get Her home. But like I say, we only use ULSD in the tank. The FCV (Flow Control Valve) and the EGR were very fairly clean. EGR had slight dry soot but no oil contamination.
FCV had slight oil film but fairly clean. I've added the ProVent to control the oil contamination. The Boost sensor was sooty but not totally packed
as some of the good folks here have experienced. The EGR is not to bad to remove and clean/check or replace. It just takes some removal of other
assemblies to provide access. I can give you a brief run down on the take down if you need. PM me and I'll see if I can write something you'll be able to follow.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:37 am 
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Why not put it on here for all to see?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 11:47 am 
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OK...
I'll give it a try

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 21, 2007 1:13 pm 
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Ok....Here goes....
Keep in mind, I don't have a 05 KJ FS Mannie (I'm savin' up...) so I may not be able to call certain items by their correct names but I will do my best to describe them.
1. Disconnect and remove the battery.
2. Disconnect the wires and remove the power distribution center off of the battery tray. There are 3 snap connectors to release and it lifts off.
3. Remove the battery tray. If I remember there were 3 bolts.
4. Remove the CAC hose from the intercooler to the flow control valve (FCV) and disconnect the electrical connection to the FCV.
5. Remove the electrical connections to the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolts holding the fuel lines to the filter head. DON'T lose the copper washers on each side of the banjo fittings. Remove the filter head/2 nuts and remove the filter assembly mounting bracket/3 nuts.
6. You'll see a steel tube with V-groove band clamp mounted to the FCV and a 2 bolt plate mounted to the EGR. Remove it. Removed the wire bracket just to save my knuckles when removing the tube from the EGR.
7. There are 4 allen head cap screws holding on the CAC hose snorkle and the FCV to the intake mannie remove them. There is a gasket I believe on the snorkle and a large O ring on the FCV or vice versa. Both are reusable. The gasket will be stuck on and the O ring fits in a groove.
8. With some acrobatic skills you'll be able to see the EGR and the cooling housing. You'll notice another steel tube coming from the other side around the back of the engine. Remove the 2 bolts into the EGR. No need to remove the tube the EGR will slide out.
9. The EGR has 2 small coolant lines attached to it at the mid point. Now, I didn't drain any coolant from the system. I cut off the squeeze-on clamps (CAREFUL not to nick the hoses and replaced with 2 good stainless steel clamps). Had a couple of plugs (about 3/8" dia) in hand and pulled off the hoses and plugged them. BE QUICK.....
10. Remove EGR. 4 bolts vertical to the floor. THERE is a steel gasket between the EGR and the cooling chamber mounting don't lose it or damage it.
You'll have to pull off various wire mounts just to shift them around but all pop out easily.
When I reassembled I used a little anti-sieze compound on all the fasteners just in case I'll be doing this again.
Also on the "Princess's" oiler there was another top engine (probably for sound) cover below the dressy cover. I cut the drivers half of that in half (with it full length and the wire bundles on top of it it took a lot of praying and cussing which canceled out the praying.... a bad circle) to remove easily so I can check and clean the boost sensor whe required.
Keep in mind when reassembling not to over tighten...
Refill the coolant tank accordingly.
Prime the fuel sytem. Put fire to'her.
Check for leaks and you're good to go.
How's that....for a Carpenter

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05 KJ CRD Limited..
08 WK CRD Laredo
03 DR 2500 Cummins
13 Edge Limited AWD


Last edited by truckbouy2 on Sat Feb 24, 2007 8:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 1:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Feb 20, 2007 11:16 pm
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Thanks alot for the help. I'm going to try it this weekend. I'll let you know how it goes.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 5:33 am 
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Well I havnt tried it yet, but it seems like a good description just from the read, if anyone else "in the know" cares to give it a thumbs up I would say it should be added to the FAQ so it doesnt get lost.

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