I have about 9000km (a little over 5000 miles or thereabouts) on my 06 CRD. I haven't had no noticeable trouble, but the CEL has come on 6 times now!! It's not anything like the fuel cap and I've been running on the same fuel from the same station who uses only top grade fuel and extremely good filters (I know the station owner). It will come on at random times and probably stay on for about 4 hours or so and be gone again for another few weeks. I have yet to have the F37 recall done. I'd bring it to the dealer here but they're always "booked up" when the light is on. Small town dealer issues, and not sure if I want to bring it to them because they admitted they've never even seen a CRD yet. I may just have to wait until I move back to the city in a few months, but in the meantime, does anyone have any guesses?? Thanks!

My check engine light came on and off intermittently like that several months back. The codes were for Low EGR Flow and Turbocharger Underboost. So, I took it to the dealership, and they replace the EGR FCV; but the ight came on again, so I took it back again about a month later. They replaced the EGR FCV again the second time, and everything has been fine ever since, and it has been quite a while now. I attribute the cessation of codes and CEL light to the new ULSD which came out around the time I got the second EGR replaced. I am the second owner, so I am not sure what the first owner went through with it.

Another thought.... It could be a dirty soot-clogged Boost Pressure/Air Intake Temperature sensor. I got a code and a CEL for that recently. So, I took the sensor out and cleaned it, put the sensor back in and fired her up. This cured the CEL, so I cleared the codes, and everthing has been fine since in that regard.

Check out the CRD FAQ's and the OldNavy Alphabet Soup threads for information on cleaning the sensor, and on the EGR valve.

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--Greg
2005 CRD Sport in white
2.5" Daystar Lift Kit
245/75/16 Maxxis Buckshot Mudders

It could be the turbo thing...I know it still seems like the torque is there but on the highway I find it doesn't have the "get up and go" when passing someone like it did. Could be just in my head though. Could it be soot-clogged already? After only those low amount of KMs? It's due for it's service soon anyways so I guess I'll get it all check on then. Nothing seems to be damaged by this so I'll just suffer it out for the next little while.

As a related question, is it possible that driving the CRD very gently, and by that I mean rarely really giving it a good push clog it up easier where there's probably never a higher air flow being produced?

I have heard that. I have heard the phrase "blowing it's nose" used to discribe what needs to be done as well. Just stomp it like you are passing someone. Blow it's nose.

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2006 Sport CRD

Could the Aztecs have known, that in 2012 after a 4 year experiment, our country would cease to exist?

What nose is being blown? If you want to clean out the EGR valve, then run it at a constant 2,400 RPM with over drive off for a few miles. That will provide high flow to the EGR valve and blow it out. If you want to clean out the CAC, valves and exhaust then just floor it with overdrive off at around the same speed. No reason to run it through the gears at full throttle stressing all the clutches and gears. I drive very easy too. In fact, I have never run it wide open 0 to 60 (34k miles) and it runs beautifuly. I do clean it out once every 300 to 500 miles as described.

My first EGR was replaced at about 20k miles and it was very clean. It failed for some other reason than being dirty.

The guys are talking about giving the engine a good blast so that the vanes on the variable-nozzle turbo stay free moving. Several of us with VW TDI's know that the Garrett VNT-15 turbos need some good boost running through them to keep the variable nozzle vanes on the turbine inlet from sooting up and jamming in the low boost position. The same is no doubt true for the R428's VNT turbo. I used to drive my TDI in the low-end of the RPM range all the time for economy's sake, but the turbo nozzles jammed and I had to get under the beastie and physically cycle the nozzle vane actuator ring to free up the nozzles.

Cheers,
Duey

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2K9 Space Grey 335d Sport
2K1 Galaxy Blue Jetta TDI 5-sp

Thank You, this is new information to me and makes a lot more sense than information on another forum where they think they are doing something else entirely. However, using a boost gauge, I am able to achieve near full boost using the method that I described without abusing my torque converter or the transmission. Also, much of my driving is in a hilly area where even though my speed is constant my boost pressure is all over the place as the engine is loaded and unloaded.

I posted about a year ago that a VNT needs to be wide open throtted at least once every fill to keep the VNT operating proper, (learned from being TDI owner ands Fred's TDI forum) otherwise they get dirty inside and get to where they don't open. If in the right climate and road conditions (sand & salt) the outside linkage will also get corroded and fail to operate properly. MaybeI might should put something about this in the CRD FAQ section.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

As it turns out, when I am on the road, 300 to 500 miles is once a day.

This is good advice. I have started mixing in some high RPM moments with my usual grandma speed commute.

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2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Thule CrossRoads Rack System
Draw-Tite Hitch