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 Post subject: A few CRD newbie questions
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 4:18 pm 
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I picked up a used 2005 CRD 5 days ago. I did some reading before I bought it and it seemed like a great vehicle. Sadly, I didn't find this site, or JeepForums.com until after I bought the CRD home.

Luckily, my CRD has had all the recalls done, and it runs great. Even with me "playing" with it and generally keeping my foot planted to the floor, I'm getting about 21mpg. Really good MPG in my book, especially since my PT Cruiser only got 20.

So I start reading about all the complaints. What I noticed is that most of them, with the torque converter being the exception, are really simple fixes.

It's really easy to get to and clean the MAP sensor. The EGR valve shouldn't be too difficult either. Heck, even if you have to clean/replace these yearly, it's not that bad if you've got a simple set of tools and a little patience. I intend to buy the service manual so I can spin my own wrenches.

I've read about some turbos leaking oil, and I took a look at where the turbo is. Doesn't seem too awfully hard to get at. Sure, you'd have to remove a few things, but for the most part, I'm betting that I could get that sucker out of there without much drama and take it down to a local turbo shop for a rebuild if it ever developed a leak.

My biggest concern with any vehicle is that the transmissions doesn't grenade and that nothing fails internally in the engine. Anything that would require the engine or tranny to be removed is a bad thing in my book. I don't have a frame lift, and don't have the tools to fix anything that major.

So...that being said, has anyone had a major malfunction outside of the torque converter (which was recalled)? Are people making mountians out of mole hills regarding the CRD? Are people expecting them to be flawless? I've owned 22 cars in my life and I can't think of a single one of them that didn't have some sort of glitch or flaw that either had to be corrected or simply "lived with".

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 5:35 pm 
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Mountains out of mole hills? Some are, some aren't. The MAP sensor is an easy clean. Read all about it in the CRD FAQs section. The EGR is a little different story. A little more to cleaning it. The engine is bullet proof. The tranny is a good one if set up properly. Hopefully, the recall F37 took care of that. You may have the longer warranty if you get it over into your name and you are the 2nd owner. Other than that, I feel it is a nice ride. I haven't lost sleep over buying my 2006.

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 Post subject: Re: A few CRD newbie questions
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 6:45 pm 
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chadhargis wrote:
I picked up a used 2005 CRD 5 days ago. I did some reading before I bought it and it seemed like a great vehicle. Sadly, I didn't find this site, or JeepForums.com until after I bought the CRD home.

Luckily, my CRD has had all the recalls done, and it runs great. Even with me "playing" with it and generally keeping my foot planted to the floor, I'm getting about 21mpg. Really good MPG in my book, especially since my PT Cruiser only got 20.

So I start reading about all the complaints. What I noticed is that most of them, with the torque converter being the exception, are really simple fixes.

It's really easy to get to and clean the MAP sensor. The EGR valve shouldn't be too difficult either. Heck, even if you have to clean/replace these yearly, it's not that bad if you've got a simple set of tools and a little patience. I intend to buy the service manual so I can spin my own wrenches.

I've read about some turbos leaking oil, and I took a look at where the turbo is. Doesn't seem too awfully hard to get at. Sure, you'd have to remove a few things, but for the most part, I'm betting that I could get that sucker out of there without much drama and take it down to a local turbo shop for a rebuild if it ever developed a leak.

My biggest concern with any vehicle is that the transmissions doesn't grenade and that nothing fails internally in the engine. Anything that would require the engine or tranny to be removed is a bad thing in my book. I don't have a frame lift, and don't have the tools to fix anything that major.

So...that being said, has anyone had a major malfunction outside of the torque converter (which was recalled)? Are people making mountians out of mole hills regarding the CRD? Are people expecting them to be flawless? I've owned 22 cars in my life and I can't think of a single one of them that didn't have some sort of glitch or flaw that either had to be corrected or simply "lived with".



I think many people did overreact regarding some of the systems on the CRD. The biggest one being the CCV system, even though it is used on millions of vehicles on the road. Your CRD might get oily cac tubes and connections, but the miles will just keep adding up. Ok, I am ready for the name-calling to begin!


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 8:38 pm 
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I have no regrets on mine so far, and while I would not say that everyone with problems is overreacting, at the same time I think that much of the loudest claims are ridiculous(um, who cares if you lose a tiny bit of torque with F37 if it means the vehicle is more reliable?). That said, having bought an 06 I didn't get to experience the pre-recall performance, so its possible that it used to drive like a sports car and thats what everyone misses. Having never had that expectation, I love its performance myself, certainly a step up from my 4.3L S-10.

As long as you keep it properly maintained I doubt you'll have any serious issues.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:30 pm 
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What are CAC tubes?

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 9:36 pm 
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chadhargis wrote:
What are CAC tubes?



Charged Air tubes are the black raditor hose thingy that connects to the turbo and intercooler. It runs next to the air filter box.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:01 pm 
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BVCRD wrote:
chadhargis wrote:
What are CAC tubes?



Charged Air tubes are the black raditor hose thingy that connects to the turbo and intercooler. It runs next to the air filter box.


Heres my question, why is everyone in an uproar when they get oily? And then have the dealer replace them? If its even a problem at all why not just clean em out?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:04 pm 
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Sir Sam wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
chadhargis wrote:
What are CAC tubes?



Charged Air tubes are the black raditor hose thingy that connects to the turbo and intercooler. It runs next to the air filter box.


Heres my question, why is everyone in an uproar when they get oily? And then have the dealer replace them? If its even a problem at all why not just clean em out?




Oil weakens them and they could rupture. Oil in them could mean leaking turbo seals. It is normal for some oil in them from the closed crank system.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2007 11:19 pm 
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Most of what you see in the cac is condensation with a little soot mixed in. A normal thing in a closed diesel engine.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:09 am 
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BVCRD wrote:
Sir Sam wrote:
BVCRD wrote:
chadhargis wrote:
What are CAC tubes?



Charged Air tubes are the black raditor hose thingy that connects to the turbo and intercooler. It runs next to the air filter box.


Heres my question, why is everyone in an uproar when they get oily? And then have the dealer replace them? If its even a problem at all why not just clean em out?




Oil weakens them and they could rupture. Oil in them could mean leaking turbo seals. It is normal for some oil in them from the closed crank system.


Rollovers also cause oil to get in em' :wink:

I dont know what compound these hoses are made of, but in my nissan world oil on the rubber boost hoses even over decades wont lead to their failure, not saying this has to be the same case here, but has anyone ever had a failure of a boost hose or for that matter a swollen or otherwises damaged boost hose?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:14 am 
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Several people have had them fail. Whether it was due to "oil" in the hose is anyone's guess. I do know that dc went cheap on the clamps. I suspect they do the most damage.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 4:00 am 
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onthehunt wrote:
Several people have had them fail. Whether it was due to "oil" in the hose is anyone's guess. I do know that dc went cheap on the clamps. I suspect they do the most damage.


How exactly did they fail?

And whats wrong with the hose clamps? They got a little benz emblem on em' they gotta be good!

If the clamp is the source of a failure onto the hose, would t-bolt clamps be any improvement?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 8:24 am 
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Sir Sam wrote:
onthehunt wrote:
Several people have had them fail. Whether it was due to "oil" in the hose is anyone's guess. I do know that dc went cheap on the clamps. I suspect they do the most damage.


How exactly did they fail?

And whats wrong with the hose clamps? They got a little benz emblem on em' they gotta be good!

If the clamp is the source of a failure onto the hose, would t-bolt clamps be any improvement?





Basically, they get soft. Squeze one and see. When soft, they get a bubble and BLOW! Mine didn't have a "little condensation and soot in it." It was oil. Not a lot, but it was saturated.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:51 am 
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FYI - the hose isn't the only worry - if you have oil in the hose - it's also flowing into the Intercooler - over time it will collect in the intercooler and degrade performance - it's not a short term issue - it's 100K+ issue - so It'll die after it's out of warranty.
The VW TDI guys have the issue and they have a cleaning procedure for their intercooler - unfortunately our's isn't so easy to clean - that's where the EHM or Provent come in. (I prefer the Provent - I can smell fumes with the EHM)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 9:57 am 
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ATXKJ wrote:
FYI - the hose isn't the only worry - if you have oil in the hose - it's also flowing into the Intercooler - over time it will collect in the intercooler and degrade performance - it's not a short term issue - it's 100K+ issue - so It'll die after it's out of warranty.
The VW TDI guys have the issue and they have a cleaning procedure for their intercooler - unfortunately our's isn't so easy to clean - that's where the EHM or Provent come in. (I prefer the Provent - I can smell fumes with the EHM)



Do you know the capacity of our intercooler? My oil level doesn't change in the 5000 miles between oil changes. There is residue ion the CAC hose, but as far as filling up the intercooler, I don't see it. It takes oil to fill it up and I'm not missing any.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:20 am 
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No - I don't know what the limit is.
My oil level doesn't change either - and at the same time I do dump oil out of the Provent (and a lot of condensation). I'm assuming oil blown into the intake is on the order of ounces/1000 miles - not enough to make a noticeable change on the dipstick - but enough to show up where it doesn't belong.
I don't know that the oil has to physically block the Intercooler to be a problem - a coating could be enough reduce the heat transfer and reduce the performance of the system.
The EHM and Provents are precaution's. Until someone is in the 100,000 mile range on a totally stock system - I don't know if we will have data points.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:47 am 
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Since this is a newbie thread, what is a Provent? What does it do?

What sort of intercooler does the CRD have? I'm assuming it's air to air.

This is all good stuff that you don't read in the owners manual. I'd love to have a list of things that need cleaning from time to time.

- CAC hoses
- MAP sensor

What else? Heck, it's easy stuff to do. In my gas powered cars, I will take out the upper intake plenum and clean it along with the throttle body (which a diesel doesn't have unless I'm mistaken). There is always gunk in any engine that need to be cleaned out, sometimes scrubbed out. I'm sure a diesel is no different.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:33 pm 
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BVCRD wrote:
Sir Sam wrote:
onthehunt wrote:
Several people have had them fail. Whether it was due to "oil" in the hose is anyone's guess. I do know that dc went cheap on the clamps. I suspect they do the most damage.


How exactly did they fail?

And whats wrong with the hose clamps? They got a little benz emblem on em' they gotta be good!

If the clamp is the source of a failure onto the hose, would t-bolt clamps be any improvement?





Basically, they get soft. Squeze one and see. When soft, they get a bubble and BLOW! Mine didn't have a "little condensation and soot in it." It was oil. Not a lot, but it was saturated.


Ok, thats the type of failure that I was expecting from oil soakage, what I was really asking is if there was a low point in the system or a stress point(like just before the intercooler) where the failure occured for me to keep an eye on.

Does anyone make a silicon hose kit for the CRD? I know generic parts could be used but I never liked them because you only multiplied the number of places that you could have potential boost leaks.

ATXKJ wrote:
No - I don't know what the limit is.
My oil level doesn't change either - and at the same time I do dump oil out of the Provent (and a lot of condensation). I'm assuming oil blown into the intake is on the order of ounces/1000 miles - not enough to make a noticeable change on the dipstick - but enough to show up where it doesn't belong.
I don't know that the oil has to physically block the Intercooler to be a problem - a coating could be enough reduce the heat transfer and reduce the performance of the system.
The EHM and Provents are precaution's. Until someone is in the 100,000 mile range on a totally stock system - I don't know if we will have data points.


Agreed, more oil coating the inside of the intercooler the worse the heat transfer properties. The real question is when is the diminishing returns point reached and you just have to pull the intercooler out to clean it.

For that matter in the long run if someone got serious they could modify their hood heavily, and run a top mount intercooler setup, cleanup would be a breeze every few months because of the accessibility, that and there could be a serious heat transfer encrease because of additional airflow, over just the intercooler, also making room up front for improvement.

I like that idea, though it would require a we bit of body work and some styling, and while I never much cared for the TMIC in subarus, here I could see it being much better than the FMIC already in place.

Its an interesting idea, but not something you can do on a whim.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:38 pm 
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The Provent is ~ kinda an air filter that goes in the Closed Crankase Ventilation hose - it doesn't really filter as much as it causes the oil vapor to condense so that you can drain it out - the only real issue is that it's big (made for larger diesels) and there's little room under the hood - this was a good writeup
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=3697&highlight=provent


The other option EHM - Elephant Hose Mod
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=10096
vents the gas - I tried it and always ended up smelling fumes - ran with the outside vent closed until I got the Provent back in.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 1:48 pm 
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My CAC hose was pretty much "mushy" all along it's lenght. No sign of bubbling, but you could run your hand along the bottom of it and come away with an oil mess. Then, when it had sat for a day or so, dry up. You had to check it right after the engine was shut off to see the "fresh" oil on it.

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