MAP is clean Clean CLEAN!!!

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2007 5:24 pm

Had to brag. This is BIODIESEL clean!

Wasn't bad (cleaned before ORM) but last time only used Elecronics cleaner and paper towels, got it down to black and not crusty. This time it shines like a Brass Bell, used biodiesel brushed on with paper towels. Took a couple times with biodiesel and paper towel corners twisted into mini pipe cleaner, then spraying the parts cleaner to wash it out, but after I started to see the shiny color, I had to keep at it. Took 15 minutes.

The gasket seems biodiesel-proof (Iwas worried..soak it at your own risk). Plus the parts cleaner washes the biodiesel away completely.

DocB · **Posted:** Thu May 17, 2007 11:40 pm

Good thing you cleaned it before you laid it on your hood!

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 9:36 am

You've got to be carefull about that! A lot of solvents eat paint! Especially biodiesel. Biodiesel won't eat throught the clear coat fast, but at the edges it bubbles up uncoated paint like eggs on a hot skillet. Like around the fill-cap (argh).

WWV · **Joined:** Mon May 15, 2006 1:01 pm **Posts:** 121

what makes Bio so corrosive vs reg diesel?

WWV

skywarn · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 11:05 am

the Ph of Bio is a super strong base

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 11:38 am

That's like art! (well, to someone who cleans things compulsively... ) Glad to hear BD works. I recommended it on speculation, but I suppose someone had to be a guineapig. :wink:

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 12:15 pm

skywarn wrote:

the Ph of Bio is a super strong base

That's just not true. First off, oils don't have a pH. Second, the base used in production is/should be either used up or completely removed during production and washing of the fuel. Thirdly, methyl esters are just a very good solvent, whether they have lye in them or not.

That said, I wouldn't clean a plastic sensor with it either.

skywarn · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 1:07 pm

greiswig wrote:

skywarn wrote:

the Ph of Bio is a super strong base

That's just not true. First off, oils don't have a pH. Second, the base used in production is/should be either used up or completely removed during production and washing of the fuel. Thirdly, methyl esters are just a very good solvent, whether they have lye in them or not.

That said, I wouldn't clean a plastic sensor with it either.

we are both right... things get clean by using either an acid or a base. Bio (used as a very general term to include Methyl Esters) is why it would eat plastic.

oil itself my not have a Ph but this is what we test to know how much meth and lye to use. Titration is a ph test.

KJMedic · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 1:18 pm

Every thing has a Ph

http://www.noria.com/learning_center/ca ... brication2

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 2:05 pm

mercifully, BioD doesn't "eat" most hard plastics. PVC and other common car plastics are fine. The soft "rubber" plastics you have to be careful about. But almost any modern vehicle since 1995 has bio-proof components...expecially european parts.

Also, I removed all the bio-D with the electronics parts cleaner, which is excellent at removing light greases and oils. No reason to leave BioD on there for any amount of time.

ps this was commecial BioD, so the PH is within spec (in theory...)

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 2:05 pm

From what I understand, pH has to be measured in an electrolyte solution by definition. Putting a pH meter in an oil won't get a reliable result, because oils are not electrolytic. Titration is a way of determining (free fatty) acid content of the oil, and uses an ethanol solution and typically phenolphthalein to do it. It's an indirect indication of pH in the sense that it changes color when the pH of the alcohol solution crosses the threshold of the indicator.

But my chief issue is with the statement that biodiesel is "a super strong base." It is not. Nor does a solvent have to be either acidic or basic to be a solvent or to "get things clean." Water is an excellent solvent of many things, and it is the chemical used to define a neutral pH. Properly made biodiesel will be close to neutral in terms of being basic, however you choose to measure it.

dgeist · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 2:19 pm

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

mercifully, BioD doesn't "eat" most hard plastics. PVC and other common car plastics are fine. The soft "rubber" plastics you have to be careful about. But almost any modern vehicle since 1995 has bio-proof components...expecially european parts.

HDPE is used for strong methl-esther storage, is it not? Assuming similar makeup, I would think that the sensor would be fine even long term, especially since it was designed to go into a diesel that's certified from the car maker to be okay with 5% bio... regardless, I've spilled B100 on my paint a few times and have gotten it off within 10 minutes with no ill effects, so I think the "eat your plastic" effect is a lot more long term than anything you would have done.

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 3:05 pm

dgeist wrote:

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

mercifully, BioD doesn't "eat" most hard plastics. PVC and other common car plastics are fine. The soft "rubber" plastics you have to be careful about. But almost any modern vehicle since 1995 has bio-proof components...expecially european parts.

HDPE is used for strong methl-esther storage, is it not? Assuming similar makeup, I would think that the sensor would be fine even long term, especially since it was designed to go into a diesel that's certified from the car maker to be okay with 5% bio... regardless, I've spilled B100 on my paint a few times and have gotten it off within 10 minutes with no ill effects, so I think the "eat your plastic" effect is a lot more long term than anything you would have done.

Polyethylenes and polypropylenes seem to work pretty well with biodiesel. CPVC does not, and even some PVC is iffy for long term exposure. PVC seems to turn brittle and crack rather than melting, though. In any case, for this cleaning it was probably fine, but if there is a thin coating of paint or an insulating coating on the sensor itself, the biodiesel might go through that in very short order. Many things might: brake cleaner, etc. On my MAP, it cleaned up well using ethyl alcohol, which is a relatively safe solvent.

HTH,

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 5:16 pm

George:

Hmmmm, I hope that there wasn't any coating on that thingamabob 'cause I got it shining like the brass doorbell at the bordello on payday.

guess I'll never know....

spencevans · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 6:28 pm

Looks like I have another project. Now I just have to do some honey do's.

greiswig · **Posted:** Fri May 18, 2007 8:45 pm

BiodieselJeep.com wrote:

George:

Hmmmm, I hope that there wasn't any coating on that thingamabob 'cause I got it shining like the brass doorbell at the bordello on payday.

guess I'll never know....

You're probably just fine. The only thing I could think of would be a conformal coating of some kind to insulate the terminals of the thermistor, but I doubt D/C would go to the expense. Besides, that's not an area that I would think might be prone to water contamination.

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Sat May 19, 2007 9:57 am

Oh, and by the way...LOVE the Unimog! Mogs ROCK!!!!

MAP is clean Clean CLEAN!!!

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