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 Post subject: Transmission woes
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:14 pm 
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Location: Tualatin, Oregon
Well...on the advice of some and against the advice of others, I went ahead and purchased a low mileages '06 limited. Now...1400 miles into it I'm beginning to regret my purchase.

My transmission is intermittently shifting very hard and throwing codes. Specifically P0700, P0876, P0765, P0750. I've had it at the dealer now for over a week and they have replaced the ECM, TCM, and transmission valve body (which includes all the shift solenoids). They hooked up the tranny to a spider like device with all sorts of hoses and gauges for measuring hydraulic pressure and valve operation. Hydraulic operation appears to be OK.

Luckily I haven't sold my other car yet, otherwise I would be S.O.L. for transportation.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 4:47 pm 
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Location: Saylorsburg, PA
All I can say is that since the F37, ours has shifted great, and it drives even nicer with the upgraded Suncoast torque converter. It's a great vehicle when it's running right, and there's definitely something wrong with yours. I hope they can figure it out in short order. Once they find and fix the problem, I think you'll be happy.

- Chris


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission woes
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 31, 2006 7:52 am
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Location: Zionsville, IN
mcnaughb wrote:

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.


I have gone through your similar situation back in 2005 with my CRD. After nothing worked I persuaded the dealership to discuss with DCX to ship a brand new OEM 545RFE transmission to the dealership.

Once the dealership can convince DCX that individual "component swapping" (errr.. multiple repair tries) will not solve the problem then DCX is more willing to replace the 545RFE as a complete unit.

If you get the 545RFE as a complete unit make sure to ask for a new transmission cooler as you may have debris in the fluid that has migrated to the cooler.

_________________
2005 Black CRD Limited w/105,000 miles
Mann Provent 200, Airbox Mod, ORM Mod
New 545RFE, TC & Redesigned pump @ 25,020 miles
New EGR Flow Control Valve @ 25,020 miles
New Transfer Case input/output seals @ 32,787 miles
SEGR Kit @ 52,000 miles
SunCoast TC and Transgo Shift Kit @ 52,000 miles


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 5:49 pm 
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Location: Nashville, TN
The CRD is a great vehicle. That little 4 banger diesel is simply hard on the tranny. It's easy to fix though.

Stick with it and you'll be happy.

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Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:17 pm 
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Location: Danville, Va
Chad how is the Inmotion Tune doing for you?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:19 pm 
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Did anyone think to check the transmission fluid level?

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:20 pm 
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Location: Danville, Va
Cowcatcher wrote:
Did anyone think to check the transmission fluid level?


It may sound silly but you are dealing with a Dealership.

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'08 Chevorlet HHR
Victory Red
Stock for now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:29 pm 
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Location: Tualatin, Oregon
Yes, transmission fluid has been checked. They replaced the valve body and had to replace all the fluid.

Yes, it is the dealer, but so far I have been fairly impressed with their service and knowledge.

Their next step is to replace the wiring harness betweent the engine/ecm/tcm/tranny. The ETA is thursday.

Because of the tests already done on the tranny, they are fairly confident that it is not the transmission. If the wiring doesn't fix it, I'll ask for a new transmission.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:32 pm 
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Location: Danville, Va
Alot of Dealers in the past have not put enough Tranny Fluid back in the Tranny after service.

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LOST #-169388
'79 CJ-5
32x11.50x15
304 V8

'08 Chevorlet HHR
Victory Red
Stock for now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 6:39 pm 
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Location: Nashville, TN
Quote:
Chad how is the Inmotion Tune doing for you?


It's working great!

More snap off the bottom end for sure. Turbo lag is reduced. It's still a bit early to determine fuel mileage improvements as I haven't burned a whole tank yet.

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Chad Hargis
Nashville, TN
2008 Grand Cherokee CRD
2005 Liberty CRD *SOLD*


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 Post subject: Re: Transmission woes
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 7:07 pm 
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mcnaughb wrote:
Well...on the advice of some and against the advice of others, I went ahead and purchased a low mileages '06 limited. Now...1400 miles into it I'm beginning to regret my purchase.

My transmission is intermittently shifting very hard and throwing codes. Specifically P0700, P0876, P0765, P0750. I've had it at the dealer now for over a week and they have replaced the ECM, TCM, and transmission valve body (which includes all the shift solenoids). They hooked up the tranny to a spider like device with all sorts of hoses and gauges for measuring hydraulic pressure and valve operation. Hydraulic operation appears to be OK.

Luckily I haven't sold my other car yet, otherwise I would be S.O.L. for transportation.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.


First idea - don't panic. It's a natural reaction when a transmission goes bad on you. It feels really bad, but it's not the end of the world, nor does it necessarily mean the vehicle is cursed. If your CRD was going to have this problem its better to get it on record early and start the resolution process now. Several of us have lived through catastrophic transmission failures in live traffic and are still driving our CRD's and enjoying them. We can even speak about it in English now. You're actually fortunate that you have codes - if you have problems and no codes, in dealership speak, you have no problem.

Second idea - it's a good sign that your dealership has the equipment to measure the hydraulic pressure on the valve body. It's a very good sign. What you don't want is the blank stares, the shuffling of papers and leaving the keys with the clerk when you show up. If they can run the diagnostics on the valve body, they can determine if they have good transmission pump pressure (very important) correct in-gear, up and down shift pressure and torque converter pressure. If they have someone who knows what those pressures are supposed to be, they can at least identify any obvious shift issues related to the valve body.

Third idea - If they release it to you and say it's fixed, ask them to explain in plain English exactly what the problem was. Write down what they say is fixed in front of them. Then take it out on a stretch of road where you can test it thoroughly - as in city driving shifting up and down, stoplights to make sure the engine isn't lugging badly and you have to step on the brake with 2 feet to keep it stopped (mine used to work like that occasionally) and then Interstate driving, passing and overdrive lockout. If it isn't right, take it back immediately. Don't compromise on this one. I speak from experience.

Don't let the pressure of "I don't have time for this now" deter you. If you don't make time for it, you'll lose the time later on the side of the road anyway. This means you need to pick it up in the morning rather than late afternoon. If it isn't right when you get it back, it isn't going to get better on its own. If codes pop up, the hard shifting or any other loud noises or funky behavior happens, take it back and leave it.

Fourth idea - if it starts acting up again after working correctly for a while, take it in immediately. Get it on record that it's still not correct.

Fifth idea - if it takes more than 3 dealer visits and it's still not right, it's decision time. Do you like it enough to keep it and stick with the repairs until its right, or is your tolerance of vehicle breakdowns just below what your CRD can give you? If you can't take the stress and the dealer can't make it right, calmly calculate what the cost will be to take it to a very reputable, very competent transmission shop versus the trade-in loss and multiple car rentals.

The dealer make be somewhat constrained by Chrysler's current situation of just being sold, and some confusion may be occurring between your dealer and the corporation. Make your decision when calm and not angry over the situation. Once you decide, stick with it.

Good luck and keep us posted on how it's working out.

_________________
2005 LTD CRD RB1 NAV/Htd Leather seats/Amsoil EA filters
SunCoast Mega Trans & Billet TC/PML pan/Aux cooler
Fuel cooler/Lift Pump/10um Pri/Racor R490 2um Sec Fuel Filters
IronMan Lift/Shocks/Provent/Moog ball joints/ V6 Airbox/Fan/Hayden
Cobalt Boost/EGT/Oil/Trans/Volt gauges/Aeroturbine 2525
Yeti Hot Tune/Odessey 65/Samco's/Michelin Defenders


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 8:16 pm 
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I agree with Ranger1. My streak of luck went down hill real quick. Bought the car in VA and on the way home it threw all kinds of codes. Lost power on the highway and started bucking complimented by Trans Temp, MIL, and various other warnings. It was under warranty so I just kept driving, nursed it home, and dealt with it when I got back. It took the dealer 2 times to get it right and essentially they did the F37 on my car before it existed, minus the detune, but in addition to some internal trans parts it digested. Bottom line: be patient. It really is a great vehicle and since all this happened 20K ago, I have had no problems since and am still very happy with my purchase.

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Josh

2012 Jeep Liberty Latitude Edition 4x4 - Brilliant Black, RRO Rockfather II OME lift, 245/70/17 Duratracs

*sold*
2005 CRD Limited 4x4 -Inferno Red- Selec-Trac
SEGR, Grabber AT2's, 2.5" Daystar


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jun 19, 2007 9:03 pm 
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Location: Lake Orion MI
Have the wiring inspected thouroughly. Every circuit between the trans controller and the valve body needs to be checked for electrical continuity from the trans controller side. Do not use a standard probe to insert the meter into the circuit, get the male pin from the mating connector and use that to check out the female side of the connector. Inspect for bent male pins on both sides of the wiring harness (trans controller and transmission).

Just some ideas...

_________________
2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jun 21, 2007 8:45 am 
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I have mentioned this in several other posts and it always raises eye-brows because a lot of people (INCLUDING MOST DEALERSHIPS) don't realize what the owners-manual (correctly) says regarding checking the transmission fluid for this motor/transmission configuration. The fluid needs to be checked while is in Park, NOT IN NEUTRAL like most other cars.

So, even if there problem is deeper than that, go ahead and check it (dont let the dealer do it, they may not even report that it was very low to you due to embarrassment for not reading the manual - who knows is that little FAQ is even in the STAR system, or if they even read the STAR system procedures for checking fluids). If the fluid is dangerously low, I bet at least some of your problems will subside ... but who knows if any damage from driving it with very low fluid will have occurred internally to reduce the transmission's life-span.

If it is dangerously low, have the Libby towed into the dealership, so they can document the low fluid level - don't just add it in yourself amid all the transmission problems you are having - let's not let anything go undocumented in case you need to support, in writing, some neglect later on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 2:20 am 
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Location: Tualatin, Oregon
Got the CRD back from the dealer and it has gone 200 miles without issue. It may still be a bit premature, but I'm hopefull that it is fixed. Appears that the engine/transmission wiring harness was bad...somewhere amongst all those wires and connectors something wasn't quite right.

I have only good things to say about my dealer. Treated me well and worked VERY hard troubleshooting this issue. Definitely not an easy fix. Took almost two weeks of a tech's time, ECM, TCM, valve body, and a wiring harness. Chrysler could have almost bought me a new car for that. :)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 6:47 am 
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mcnaughb wrote:
Got the CRD back from the dealer and it has gone 200 miles without issue. It may still be a bit premature, but I'm hopefull that it is fixed. Appears that the engine/transmission wiring harness was bad...somewhere amongst all those wires and connectors something wasn't quite right.

I have only good things to say about my dealer. Treated me well and worked VERY hard troubleshooting this issue. Definitely not an easy fix. Took almost two weeks of a tech's time, ECM, TCM, valve body, and a wiring harness. Chrysler could have almost bought me a new car for that. :)


Now we know why it was traded in :shock: Too bad the last owner won't know what fixed his problem :cry: I agree whole hartedly, good dealer=good jeep :D Good dealers make all the difference :lol:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jun 23, 2007 11:06 pm 
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Glad to hear you're up and running again.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 7:07 am 
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Joe Romas wrote:
good dealer=good jeep


Amen to that brother! Some dealerships out there are just plain scary! We have a pretty good dealership in our area. :)

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