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Dead CRD second time!
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=22288		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Dead CRD second time!
Ok the first time it was a auto tranny linkage that went down. THis time... not sure... I would like to be able to drive to the dealership under its own power tomorrow of possible. Someone please please please help!!!!

Situation:
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1) CEL 1140 (been on for over 1400 miles been ignoring it) this CEL is about the EGR so figured what the heck, ill take it in to the dealer when i get the chance...
2) ITs 115 degrees F out here right now wow!
3) Engine started, backed up 10 ft. engine stalled
4) Starter just cranks all day nothing like no fuel getting to it no more
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Things ive tried:
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1) check fueses that seem to have somthing to do w/ fuel somthing.... all seemed ok (big ones couldnt check b/c no visual feeback due to nature of fues)
2) plug back in my MAF sensor (disable ORM)
3) kick tire and yell at my jeep for sucking lemons
4) Left battery unhooked while i come in here to type this up


any advice would be apreciated...


o8k
Author:  retmil46 [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Except for the CEL being on, been thru a similar occurrence. Dealer tech left bleed screw cracked open on filter head, lost prime, it just sat there and cranked. Once they reprimed the fuel filter, ran like a champ.

Try venting and priming the fuel filter.
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 9:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
if you dont mind =) how do i do that?
Author:  retmil46 [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
At the least, going to need an 11 mm wrench and some paper towels (preferably a LOT of paper towels).

Pop the hood and look at the fuel filter. On the top, the big black knob is the primer pump. If you look on the opposite side, also on top of the fuel filter, you'll see what looks like a silver nipple with wrench flats on it. That's the bleed screw.

Operate the primer pump by pushing in on the black knob and then releasing it, continue pumping it until you feel a noteable increase in pressure required to push the knob in.

Then crack open the bleed screw using the 11 mm wrench. With the wrench on the flats of the nipple and sticking up above it, you'll be pushing the wrench toward the windshield to turn the bleed screw and loosen it.

Loosen the bleed screw only enough, about 1/4 turn, until you get air and/or fuel coming out (my guess is you'll initially get only air). When the pressure has bled off, tighten the bleed screw back down. If you got only air or a mixture of air and fuel, just snug it enough so that it seals - you're going to have to repeat the process.

Once again operate the primer pump until you feel pressure build up, and again operate the bleed screw to vent the filter.

When you get to the point you're getting a solid stream of fuel out of the bleed screw (no air mixed in), go ahead and close it, and snug it down for keeps, you should be done.

Go ahead and operate the primer pump to put pressure in the filter again, and check for any leaks. That should be it.

Hold the paper towels, I'd recommend 2 or 3 layers together, in front of the bleed screw to catch the fuel coming out of it, or you'll end up with diesel sprayed all over the top of the engine. Also wipe down any dribbles on the filter and other parts when you're done.
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
grassy butts and thanks that makes sense, will give it a whirl and hope for the best.
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:50 pm ]
Post subject: 
MAN 1000 thankyou's man you saved me a lot of hastle! worked like a champ! didnt even have that much air really, was a mix of air and fuel about 3-4 cycles and it was squirting only fuel about 6 paper towels in all. I did notice two things that worry me tho...


1) when priming w/ the little pump thing, fuel was sqirting out one of the wire harnes's or fizzing out like a hole in a raft submerged in water

2) totaly non-related, my oil was low, no leaks, oil replaced about 5k miles ago, and it was about 2 quarts low. what would cause this? did my elephant hose mod cause extra oil loss?

Last question, whats the chances that the fuel pump is not working at all? how long could it run and not stall? if i was doing all the pumping manualy?
Author:  Endurance [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
to 1) You got the typical fuel heater plug leak. Thats where the air in your fuel system is coming from.
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
welp lucky me, ive read about it but didnt know what to do if it happend, most i read had to do w/ stuttering on the freeway, thanks again guys im feeling way less stress =)
Author:  Cowcatcher [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:38 pm ]
Post subject: 
o8k wrote:

1) when priming w/ the little pump thing, fuel was sqirting out one of the wire harnes's or fizzing out like a hole in a raft submerged in water

2) totaly non-related, my oil was low, no leaks, oil replaced about 5k miles ago, and it was about 2 quarts low. what would cause this? did my elephant hose mod cause extra oil loss?



On 1) please go to this thread and then do a consumer report on the air leak in the filter head. We are trying to get the head recalled. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=21971

On 2) have you been driving in heavy rain? Have you replace the airbox with one from a gasser? The air intake design leads to too much rain getting into the air box an on the filter and sometimes that results in oil consumption. Mine did it on the first 5K between 4K and 5K down 1 Qt.
Author:  o8k [ Thu Jul 05, 2007 11:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
will do on the reporting....
how does the air intake make for more oil consumption? i did drive through a bit of rain on the way to dallas last weekend but noting really uber super wet.
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 12:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Take it to the dealer and POINT them to the little connection that is leaking. They should replace the whole filter head housing.
Author:  Jeger [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:52 am ]
Post subject: 
DarbyWalters wrote:
Take it to the dealer and POINT them to the little connection that is leaking. They should replace the whole filter head housing.


Keep the old one!

The NHTSA would like to see it.
Author:  Joe Romas [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:40 am ]
Post subject: 
o8k wrote:
will do on the reporting....
how does the air intake make for more oil consumption? i did drive through a bit of rain on the way to dallas last weekend but noting really uber super wet.


When the paper filter gets wet it severly restricts air flow through it :shock: Then the turbo sucks hard trying to boost creating a vacum in the intake that causs oil to be sucked out around the turbo seals :cry:

Definetly report the leaking filter head :lol:
Author:  chrispitude [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Jeger wrote:
Keep the old one!

The NHTSA would like to see it.


Ditto! Let's get the NHTSA to force DC to redesign this so none of us have to deal with this fuel/air leak nonsense.

- Chris
Author:  BiodieselJeep.com [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Ditto on the reporting the leak. Also, KEEP THE FILTER HEAD...the dealer should give it to you and you can take some valuable pics for the NHTSA!!!

This fuel filter housing thing is REALLY starting to P!$$ me off. This is amature-style screw-ups.

A filter housing? Have they NEVER BUILT a filter housing before? Please tell me on WHAT engine is there NOT a fuel filter? How do you f that up?

DC morons, someone is going to get very hurt when one of these things gets hot enough to spark a fire (admittedly hard on w/diesel, harder with Biodiesel :twisted: ).

Remind me not to buy a GASOLINE vehicle from DC...they're probably moving BOMBS....

GRRRRRRRR
Author:  Cowcatcher [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 10:49 am ]
Post subject: 
Before we get too down on Chrysler or Jeep on the fuel head, didn't someone say it was a Bosch product?

I was also looking for RACOR on some Google searches last night and came across a few negatives on RACOR. I guess the thing is that nobodys perfect.

On the leaky head, it might be if you contact the NHTSA that they would buy a new one to get the old, defective one. Under a warranty repair I would not expect that you would get the old one back as it would likely need to go back to the manufacture to prove the warranty claim.
Author:  o8k [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 5:59 pm ]
Post subject:  DEALER FEED BACK
:twisted: :evil:

So I take it in to the dealer, they guy at the service counter from the get go doesnt believe me and is angry w/ me for bleeding it to drive it in rather than tow it in. I couldnt get it to leak once all the air was out i guess the crack is too small for fuel to leak through, only air. I tried to convey this small simple fact of science to the service man who only looked at my blankly. He couldnt understand how air can go one way (less density) and fuel would not flow the other way (more density). He flat out told me "we wont fix somthing that isnt broken" So i have the original on there and not sure what to do at this point.

As for the EGR clog. He tried to say it was my fault b/c i installed an amsoil bypass filter next to the EGR and that it had banged against it causing problems. He did say he would fix the EGR (parts on order come back later kinda thing) They tried to clear the code and send me on my way but my SGII already told me that wouldnt work. So they say they will fix for free but charge me 100 dollars to move my bypass out of their way so they can work on it.

So in total, they had my car all day, and just now figured out what i already know, but did everything they could to deny warentee service. I would love to write a letter to the regienal manager complaining about how absolutely poorly handled the whole thing was. But to give some semblence of credit to facility, the service man was young and very non-diplomatic, trying to carry out his orders to deny claims as much as possible (but too young and incapable of pulling it off well w/ out just sounding like an stupid)

o8k
Author:  Goglio704 [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:06 pm ]
Post subject: 
You probably couldn't reproduce the leak because it had already pulled in a bunch of air. To check for the heater leak:

1. Purge all the air through the bleeder screw.

2. Unplug the fuel heater.

3. Pump the primer to put the system under pressure, but don't go nuts with it (use normal hand pressure).

If you have a leak you shoud see a steady drip from the heater socket at least. Alternatively, you can replace it yourself and get reimbursed when the recall happens. I think it is just a matter of time.
Author:  Cowcatcher [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 7:04 pm ]
Post subject: 
Goglio704 wrote:
Alternatively, you can replace it yourself and get reimbursed when the recall happens. I think it is just a matter of time.


Yabbut I don't think this will be an easy fix for Jeep. I think they will need to do a major remanufacture of the current filter head like perhaps a milled puck. IF he buys it on his own with hopes of future reimbursement they would likely say "pound sand, you did that one on your own we will only replace it with the new improved version."
Author:  dirtmover [ Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
BiodieselJeep.com wrote:
Remind me not to buy a GASOLINE vehicle from DC...they're probably moving BOMBS....



Been there, done that! My other car's a Dodge Caravan. Guess what one of the recalls on that one was. Fuel rail seals!
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