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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:39 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
vacuum = good


Noooo! vaccum = bad, but suction is good. :P

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:21 pm 
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You and 'catcher are correct, nurse - and BTW, 'catcher - that wasn't intended as a 'go'way and don't bother me' ruse - just a humorous ploy to define scope and intent.

You guys are talking surface foam, those large bbbbles enclosed in a thin film of fuel, easily seen, easily dissipated as the fuel evaporates and surface tension eases - I'm talking the tiny microcosms of atmosphere at Barometric pressure that you can't easily see, all those bbbbles too small to break surface tension in the large volume of the fuel tank - pressurize the tank and they really can't get out - pressurize the fuel line and they travel with the fuel - that's aeration - swirl up the fuel and they join and break free - leave the fuel sit and they join and break free, but takes a while - takes vacuum to quickly relieve surface tension and reduce the effect - pour Diesel fuel in a clear glass jar such that it swirls and foams, and note a very slight cloudiness after the surface foam dissipates- leave it sit for a while and it will clear up

High volume of return-fuel will do the same - aerate the fuel - messin' around in Diesel fuel systems ain't as easy as with gasser (patooie!) systems - not nearly as volatile, but some of the concepts don't crossover so easy

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 4:52 pm 
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Aha! I am not an expert on CRD type systems with high pressure pumps but yes I do understand the difference between aeration and foam. I agree that aeration could be causing a problem that we define as air in the fuel and that is likely as great a problem with our CRD's as leaks in the filter head, particularly in hot fuel being pulled toward the pump under vacuum.

Probably best to not talk in terms of foam though but rather aeration. It is sort of like the miss used term "limp" here. Using wrong terms leads to wrong diagnosis and fixes. :wink:

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 5:01 pm 
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Yep - you're prolly right on terms and usage, but for most folks, foam, a result of aeration, is what they can see, and so my references to it, along with the proper term - but, yeah - glad we're all on the same page on that.

So - turbo = ok - blow = ok - suck = ok (in the vernacular)

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Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 6:05 pm 
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For what it's worth, over on the TDIclub where I used to spend a lot of time there was almost constant talk of standards for fuel in Europe that we can only dream of :? The one I like best is a cetane rating of 50 :lol: But it's ability to resist foaming is also a standard :wink:

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 5:39 pm 
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Bottom line - I could care less how much of a "head" the fuel in the tank has - just so long as none of it is making it's way to the suction of the CP3. As long as no air or foam is making it far enough to affect the injection pump, the fuel in the tank can froth it's heart out.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 10:35 pm 
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retmil46 wrote:
Bottom line - I could care less how much of a "head" the fuel in the tank has - just so long as none of it is making it's way to the suction of the CP3. As long as no air or foam is making it far enough to affect the injection pump, the fuel in the tank can froth it's heart out.


Amen!
Today I removed the holly blue and installed a duramax lift pump from Oreillie's, works great and absolutely no noise.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 5:57 pm 
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Larry R. wrote:
In the power distrubition center under the hood it has fuse cavity f-17 labeled fuel prime pump and there is a relay (#38 ) labelled fuel prime pump. From the relay I traced the load side wire (brown with white tracer) to connector C-100 (behind the left kick panel) , there it changed to dark green with orange tracer. From there it goes to connector C-201 ( a black connector under the dash, just right of the steering column). It then changes to dark blue with orange tracer. Then it runs along the floor under the front left seat to under the left rear seat. If you pull the carpet up under the left rear seat you will find a light grey 10 pin connector. This is where the dark blue wire with orange tracer ends. I connected a voltmeter to this wire and with the key on It has 12 volts for approx. 15 seconds, and 12 volts all the time when running. I hooked it up today, no chance to run a long road test yet.

Hope this helps, let me know if any of your jeeps have this :D .


Before I go tearing up the carpet under my rear split bench seats, which seems to be not trivial, I'd appreciate some clarification: this connector is on the driver's side for us U.S.-based vehicles? I've got a 2005 Limited, if that makes a difference...

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 7:18 pm 
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Remove the back-rest bolts nearest the door - they hold the seat-belt and the seat bracket

remove the bolt nearest the door under the seat

remove the hinge-pin bolt near the center under the seat

Fold the seat up and back, secure it with the seat-belt

pull the trim across the door sill

pull the quarter trim up as far as you can get it

pull the velcro'ed rear carpet from the under-seat carpet

pull the carpet from under the seat-back

Fold it over towards the center, hold it

Pull the sound-deadener sheet up, fold it over to the center, brace it and the carpet with a 2x4

You should be able to see the rear cabin-harness 10pin connector (12 for '06) mounted on the back surface of the floor-pan ridge - the rear-harness connects to that, goes thru the bulkhead pass-thru in the floor

The rear cabin-harness connector has 8 or so wires (12 for '06) -

Brn, Brn\Blu for fuel guage sender

DGrn\DBlu and DBlu for VSS (Violet for '06)

blue\orn or green\red for fuel pump - pump ground does not go thru the connector, but attaches to the special ground bracket on the floor pan with a self-tapping screw - that's the square nut without threads, 'bout half-way between the connector and the door

2 for optional (DGrn\Yel, MGrn\Brn andDkGrn\Vio, DkGrn\DkBlu for L&R rw VSS in '06)

The rear harness connector has four wires -

Brown, Brn\Blu for the fuel sender

DkGrn\DBlu and DBlu for the VSS in the differential housing

Black ground is separate, external to the connector

Woulda had pics, but the kid won't bring the little mule back over

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Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


Last edited by gmctd on Fri Nov 16, 2007 11:19 pm, edited 4 times in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 8:38 pm 
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Thanks, gmctd! Good description. And just to verify, this is on the driver's side for those of us in North America?

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At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:24 pm 
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Yep - or, opposite turbo-side - or, fuel filler cap side - or, dipstick side - or, opposite radio antenna side - or, alternator-side - or, opposite air filter side - or, 545RE shift shaft side - or, NP241 front-driveshaft side - or, battery side - or, ECM-side - or, short-seat side - or, opposite TC.......well......you get my drift, right?

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:35 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
Yep - or, opposite turbo-side - or, fuel filler cap side - or, dipstick side - or, opposite radio antenna side - or, alternator-side - or, opposite air filter side - or, 545RE shift shaft side - or, NP241 front-driveshaft side - or, battery side - or, ECM-side - or, short-seat side - or, opposite TC.......well......you get my drift, right?


Right...er...left...and the wires twist clockwise in the northern hemisphere, counterclockwise in the southern, right?

Sorry to be gauche (left)

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At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:12 pm 
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Yeah - but does the injected fuel swirl clockwise or CC in the northern hemisphere?

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 3:31 am 
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gmctd wrote:
Yeah - but does the injected fuel swirl clockwise or CC in the northern hemisphere?


paaaatooey!!! Ahhhhh, that would be CC, sir. Influenced, perhaps, by the Coriolis affect. And, if it falls in the woods, well, no one hears.

:lol:


Mark

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 12:54 pm 
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greiswig wrote:
Before I go tearing up the carpet under my rear split bench seats, which seems to be not trivial, I'd appreciate some clarification: this connector is on the driver's side for us U.S.-based vehicles? I've got a 2005 Limited, if that makes a difference...


Here's a picture of the wire: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/kennedy2.jpg

I was able to make the connection without removing the seat, but it's a pain.

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 Post subject: Re: my jeep has factory wiring for a lift pump!
PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:11 pm 
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thanks for all the good info on this. the wife was having problems with the jeep last week where it wouldn't go above about 5mph and sounded like it was going to throw a rod. I suspected air in the fuel like has happened before but under warranty when they replaced the filter head. this time was on my dime so I started doing research. found my options on here and this is what I did...

removed the stock filter head, replaced with my cummins filter bowl assembly that is no longer being used. filled it up with fuel and fired it up ran like a champ till it ran out of fuel. so I knew I was on the right path. next up was installing a mr gasket 12D universal fuel pump. easily found the blue/orange wire under the back seat to use for power source. cut the fuel supply line from the tank right after the plastic clip on the steel line. installed a short piece of fuel hose to pump mounted on cross member above rear axle. turned key on and heard it hummmmming away. cracked the filter cap loose till no bubbles came out. hoped in and she fired right up. never sounded so good. Idled like a dream runs great.

again thanks to everybody on here putting their $.02 in and giving me the option for this mod. obviously should have been done a long time ago!

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 Post subject: Re: my jeep has factory wiring for a lift pump!
PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 6:36 am 
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Another believer :BANANA:

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 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 1:30 pm 
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Larry R. wrote:
In the power distrubition center under the hood it has fuse cavity f-17 labeled fuel prime pump and there is a relay (#38 ) labelled fuel prime pump. From the relay I traced the load side wire (brown with white tracer) to connector C-100 (behind the left kick panel) , there it changed to dark green with orange tracer. From there it goes to connector C-201 ( a black connector under the dash, just right of the steering column). It then changes to dark blue with orange tracer. Then it runs along the floor under the front left seat to under the left rear seat. If you pull the carpet up under the left rear seat you will find a light grey 10 pin connector. This is where the dark blue wire with orange tracer ends. I connected a voltmeter to this wire and with the key on It has 12 volts for approx. 15 seconds, and 12 volts all the time when running. I hooked it up today, no chance to run a long road test yet.

Hope this helps, let me know if any of your jeeps have this :D .

I'm diving into the same project, had lots of thoughts whether this had gasser wiring that would work for a crd, I'm yanking carpets out to clean then anyway,ill post piks when i get there
:juggle:


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 Post subject: Re: Re:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 2:00 pm 
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highironcrd wrote:
Larry R. wrote:
In the power distrubition center under the hood it has fuse cavity f-17 labeled fuel prime pump and there is a relay (#38 ) labelled fuel prime pump. From the relay I traced the load side wire (brown with white tracer) to connector C-100 (behind the left kick panel) , there it changed to dark green with orange tracer. From there it goes to connector C-201 ( a black connector under the dash, just right of the steering column). It then changes to dark blue with orange tracer. Then it runs along the floor under the front left seat to under the left rear seat. If you pull the carpet up under the left rear seat you will find a light grey 10 pin connector. This is where the dark blue wire with orange tracer ends. I connected a voltmeter to this wire and with the key on It has 12 volts for approx. 15 seconds, and 12 volts all the time when running. I hooked it up today, no chance to run a long road test yet.

Hope this helps, let me know if any of your jeeps have this :D .

I'm diving into the same project, had lots of thoughts whether this had gasser wiring that would work for a crd, I'm yanking carpets out to clean then anyway,ill post piks when i get there
:juggle:

"Instruction Manual"
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject: Re: my jeep has factory wiring for a lift pump!
PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 9:17 pm 
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FYI:
CARTER P76148M
Carter is the OEM fuel pump manufacturer in Mexico and sales its units to Mopar and Airtex and other sellers who re-package them and then mark them up and resale them. That is why the Carter price is much lower! :wink:
Ask me how I know; I got one installed and been running it since May of last year... :mrgreen:
Image

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Last edited by WWDiesel on Wed Apr 25, 2018 12:23 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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