Improving the OEM Fuel Filter Head/system

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sat Aug 25, 2007 2:59 pm

You're right, no banjo fittings. Filter head has four 3/8" NPT ports (two inlet, two outlet). Just pick up pipe fittings and hose connectors from your local hardware store.

The coffee grounds are what drained out of the New Holland 5 micron filter that was installed on the factory filter head, after I removed it from the vehicle. 10 K miles total service, and 6 K miles since I drained it down last. Pretty sure most of that grunge came from my last trip to Texas, a Love's Truck Stop on I-40 about 80 miles east of Memphis, that tank of fuel gave the worst mileage of the whole trip.

Can't see it in the pics, but I've got the see-thru plastic bowl option installed on the bottom of the filter, so I can literally see when I get a bunch of crud and water building up.

Installed in the front port facing the engine is the Omega temp probe, with the silver cable running to it and tystrapped to the filter head.

In the rear port on the side facing the fender is the 12V screw-in heater, with the pink and black wires with the large electrical connector running to it.

stump doctor · **Posted:** Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:19 am

Mitchell, what number filter head are you using (Raycor i assume)?

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

retmil46:

Was that New Holland filter on the stock head with stock threads or with the Cat thread adapter?

Does the temp sensor replace/hook to the stock temp sensor?

I assume you left the stocker heat completely unhooked and that is the Stanadyne heater with internal thermostat. Where did you get power for the heater?

Nice set up.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 26, 2007 12:21 pm

stump doctor wrote:

Mitchell, what number filter head are you using (Raycor i assume)?

No, actually that's a Stanadyne Fuel Manager FM-100 series.

You can order the FM-100 filter heads with either 1/4" NPT, 3/8" NPT, metric, or SAE o-ring ports. 3/8" NPT is the most common (and therefore cheapest).

P/N I ordered from Reliable Industries is 33641, FM-100 base filter head with 3/8" NPT threaded ports and short 30 micron filter element attached, $35.50. That was actually cheaper than ordering just the filter head itself.

The other features - 12V heater, see-thru drain bowl, primer pump, etc - are all optional and can be ordered separate, you can mix and match features to suit your needs. That's one reason I opted to go with a Stanadyne.

Diesel mechanics I've talked to thought well of going with a Stanadyne filter, regardless of what Stanadyne's regional sales manager had to say. For that matter, the mechanics I've had take a first-hand look at the CRD and solicit their advice - some of them certified Stanadyne dealers - sang quite a different tune than old Joe when it came to lift pumps, fuel coolers, and filter assemblys.

But then I can't blame Joe for saying what he did. Heck, I'd have been highly surprised if he'd said anything different. He was covering his company from being involved in a potential can of worms, trying to keep from saying anything that would piss off one of their biggest customers, and protect his job at the same time. If he'd said anything that could have been construed in any way as being critical of a Chrysler product that ended up being quoted in a public venue, and his bosses had viewed that comment as hazarding their relationship with one of their Big 5 customers, he'd have been looking for a new job by the end of the week. In the end, he wouldn't have been much of a sales manager if he'd said anything different.

Besides Reliable Industries, one website where you can get a good look at the different configurations and options available for Stanadyne filters, as well as cost and order online if you wish, is Midwest Fuel Injection Service, www.mwfi.com .

MightyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:11 pm

I installed my fuel cooler last night - started up the Jeep to check for leaks (admittedly, the CRD had only been sitting maybe an hour and a half tops) - as soon as the fuel started circulating back to the tank, the fuel cooler I installed got hot to the touch - almost too hot to touch comfortably!!! I am hoping that the cooler helps - seems like I've noticed a little better running already - of course, I'm in Texas and it's in the high 90's here ....

I think Joe is just being VERY careful to cover himself perhaps - I've spoken to several folks as well (including my uncle, who owns his own heavy-equipment repair business) and they recommend a fuel cooler. It makes sense to me anyway, especially when I felt how how the return fuel was ....

I was perusing a Duramax Diesel board - a company came out with an additional fuel cooler for the DMAX with twin fans that are thermostatically controlled - they are claiming that customers who install them are seeing an average 2-4 mpg increase with no other mods - I obviously can't confirm that, but it IS interesting food for thought. IF that is true, I see absolutely NO reason why we shouldn't install one .... but I'm no engineer or an expert by any means either .... if I can find the link, I'll post it here.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:20 pm

Tinman wrote:

retmil46:

Was that New Holland filter on the stock head with stock threads or with the Cat thread adapter?

Does the temp sensor replace/hook to the stock temp sensor?

I assume you left the stocker heat completely unhooked and that is the Stanadyne heater with internal thermostat. Where did you get power for the heater?

Nice set up.

Thanks for the compliment.

New Holland uses the original stock threads, M16. Found this particular NH filter way back before oldnavy and Greg came up with the Cat 2 adapter, and back when we thought the only real problem we had was with the stock fuel filter element itself. My how times change.

Yes, the Omega probe completely replaces the stock temp sensor. Omega probe comes threaded for 1/4" NPT, so it's a whole lot easier to install, but at $61 a whack, not inexpensive.

For both the Omega probe and the Stanadyne heater, I cut the factory connectors off the harnesses for the stock temp sensor and fuel heater, then connected the Omega probe and Stanadyne heater to the vehicle harnesses with 1/4" quick disconnects. Stanadyne heater has it's own thermostat built in, all it needed was power.

I left enough wire on the factory connectors so if for some obscure reason I ever needed to reinstall the factory filter assembly I could easily reconnect them. Right now the factory connectors are residing in my glovebox. :wink:

Tinman · **Joined:** Mon Apr 10, 2006 10:45 am **Posts:** 308

I've been watching these threads closes and your set up is the only one that I really like. It retains all the necessary functions, ie., heater, temp sensor and a WIF indicator (see thru bowl). I am very familiar with Stanadyne's stuff and they are very good. Could you give us a part number for that Omega temp sensor. Also a part # for the NH filter. I will proabably do something like this but for now our Libby's fuel system is working fine. I'd just like better filtration so I may just use a better filter for now while we are under warrenty. Adding a lift pump is probably a good idea. A lift pump can be added to the FM100. It's not close to the tank and would have to suck fuel a long way, but it will only be extra help for the gear pump, not the primay way to get fuel the CP3. I'm not really excited about the fuel cooler right now, but time will tell.

Nevermind, I found the Omega part number in another thread.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:28 pm

Have to wait till in the morning and dig out one of my spare NH filters and get the P/N for you. If the info on the Wix website is anywhere accurate for their version of the NH filter, it has glass media and is 5 micron.

Stock WIF sensor won't fit in the NH filter. Matter of fact, the NH filter doesn't come with a drain plug (there's a WIF sensor permanently attached to the model tractor it's made for). After figuring out the thread size, I went by Advance Auto and picked up the plastic radiator draincock for a mid-80's Toyota and a pack of various size Viton o-rings and cobbled together a drain plug from that. Guess I didn't do too bad, it lasted for 10K miles! If I remember correctly, I've got a spare set of those as well, and will get you the P/N's for them along with the filter.

One good thing about the plastic bowl on the Stanadyne - the drain hole looks to be the next thread size smaller than the factory WIF sensor. I ordered a spare bowl today, and when it arrives I'll see if it's possible to rethread the Stanadyne bowl to accept the factory WIF sensor.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Fri Aug 31, 2007 6:34 pm

Got the spare see-thru bowl today for the Stanadyne. Reamed out the threaded drain hole with a 13/32" drill bit, then rethreaded with a M 12 X 1.5 tap. I now have the factory WIF sensor installed in the drain bowl, and soon to be on the vehicle itself.

threadfin · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:08 am

Does the Standyne bowl have 2 drains in it or does fitting the WIF sensor in the bowl mean you can't drain it now? I like the look of what you have done, but need to get the right parts first time and then get them shipped over.

Thanks,
Cam

retmil46 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 10:28 am

threadfin wrote:

Does the Standyne bowl have 2 drains in it or does fitting the WIF sensor in the bowl mean you can't drain it now? I like the look of what you have done, but need to get the right parts first time and then get them shipped over.

Thanks,
Cam

Actually, it'd be more accurate to describe the factory WIF sensor as a drain fitting with a WIF sensor built in. To drain the filter, you unplug the sensor harness, then loosen the fitting and let it drain. When done, tighten it down and plug the sensor harness back in.

Stanadyne plastic bowl has one drain in it. I just reamed out and retapped the existing drain to accept the oem drain fitting/WIF sensor.

In short, yes, you can still drain the filter with the factory drain fitting/WIF sensor installed.

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 11:28 am

On about 08/25 I pulled the fuel filter head out to measure the seals and just to inspect the design. "The Princess" was experiencing the characteristic bucking.
I pulled the filter off, pulled the hollow filter threaded tube, and the heater puck. Upon inspection I noticed a recess and shoulder (hex end) on the filter tube that holds the heater puck in place. Just for the thrill of simplicity I stretched a small O'ring into that recess and inserted the tube back into the puck so the O'ring fit INTO the puck hole and the tube shoulder fits on top of the puck just as it was made at the main office. Bled the system, put fire to it, and took it for a ride. No bucking or surging for me. But the Girl with the sensitive nervous system was the test. And as of 09/03 through all the OD on, OD off, coasting, city, highway, driving like it was stolen, she reports there hasn't been a buck, burp, fart, starting hesitation, or wiggle while underway. Too simple ???? So far.... I've had no bad report from "The Princess".

BiodieselJeep.com · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 11:57 am

truckbouy2 wrote:

On about 08/25 I pulled the fuel filter head out to measure the seals and just to inspect the design. "The Princess" was experiencing the characteristic bucking.
I pulled the filter off, pulled the hollow filter threaded tube, and the heater puck. Upon inspection I noticed a recess and shoulder (hex end) on the filter tube that holds the heater puck in place. Just for the thrill of simplicity I stretched a small O'ring into that recess and inserted the tube back into the puck so the O'ring fit INTO the puck hole and the tube shoulder fits on top of the puck just as it was made at the main office. Bled the system, put fire to it, and took it for a ride. No bucking or surging for me. But the Girl with the sensitive nervous system was the test. And as of 09/03 through all the OD on, OD off, coasting, city, highway, driving like it was stolen, she reports there hasn't been a buck, burp, fart, starting hesitation, or wiggle while underway. Too simple ???? So far.... I've had no bad report from "The Princess".

All righty! This is the ind of insight I was looing for when I started the thread. Thanks Truckbouy2 (and her magesty) for this one.

Now, hows about some pics with that description?

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 3:38 pm

When the... "Photographer/Princess" arrives on the scene, we'll take some pictures of the O'ring surgery.
But as I understand, there is no capability to upload here. So if someone who can post jpgs will have to pm me and I will send them.
One other thing in my fuel head adventure I noticed was that the puck seal and the fuel filter seal OD (2.744"+/-) and ID (2.454"+/-) were identical.
The height varied, puck seal was .190"+/- and the fuel filter was .240"+/-. Now as I posted earlier "TP's" puck seal seemed to not leak but I would blow it dry and it seemed to sweat fuel, not allot, it wouldn't puddle drip but each day home would have sweat beads. I just ordered some Viton 75 -333 o'rings to try in place of the puck seal. The porosity should be eliminated if the Viton-75 o'ring works. When I removed the seals from the Jeep filter head, both puck seal and filter seal, and compared them to the new filter head (unused) there was substantial swelling almost like the seals aren't compatible with diesel fuel. I left a standard piece of gas engine vacuum line overnight soaking in ULSD and it swelled to almost 50% bigger. I just wonder if the material in these seals are not quite totally compatible with the fuel. Just a sideline here, but I have a parts account with the local Chrysler Group portal, so just for fun, I ordered another fuel/sep head. It comes with a filter attached. It took MUCH effort to get the filter off. I thought I was going to crush it with the strap wrench. Extremely tight like it was never meant to be removed.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 4:55 pm

truckbouy2 wrote:

I left a standard piece of gas engine vacuum line overnight soaking in ULSD and it swelled to almost 50% bigger. I just wonder if the material in these seals are not quite totally compatible with the fuel. Just a sideline here, but I have a parts account with the local Chrysler Group portal, so just for fun, I ordered another fuel/sep head. It comes with a filter attached. It took MUCH effort to get the filter off. I thought I was going to crush it with the strap wrench. Extremely tight like it was never meant to be removed.

Our seals could very well be swelling. But diesel fuel requires different rubber materials then gasoline. On your new filter head, do you think they have identified the problem and have "corrected" it by using a gorilla :-)r

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 7:41 pm

I understand the use of compatible materials for the fuel, but maybe the Chrysler Group isn't quite sure. After all these small oilers were...... an......experiment.
I mentioned the extreme tightness of the filter as I remember back in thread history some were warning not to tighten the filter toooooooooooo tight.
I guess you are right the Chrysler Group has a Gorilla... And by gosh, he sunk the do not over tighten the fuel filter hypothesis....

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Mon Sep 03, 2007 9:09 pm

Our filter head is supposably a stock Bosch off the shelf unit :shock:

DC may have had them reduce the cost a few cents though :roll:

Bosch has been building diesel parts for a very long time and I would hope they would know better :cry:

Ripster · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:43 am

I can upload your photos ripster@up.net

MACKJ · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2007 8:21 pm

truckbouy2 wrote:

I just ordered some Viton 75 -333 o'rings to try in place of the puck seal. The porosity should be eliminated if the Viton-75 o'ring works.

I have been holding off installing the Cat filter until I can source a Viton seal for the puck. I run Bio occasionally and the best elastomer material for fuels, particularly Bio, is Viton.
Now that you have confirmed the size (as did Greg the Lubrication Specialist) how about someone find a supplier in the US to make a batch of the rectangular section O ring for interested forum members.

I have already checked out some suppliers here in Oz and they have costed quantities up to five at A$40 each, which is quite expensive.
If you Google "lathe cut rings" or "rectangular O ring" you will find numerous suppliers in the US.

Size would be 2.750" Outside diameter x 2.450" Inside diameter x 0.25" high or wide. Commercial machining tolerance on the size and aim for about 70 to 85 Duro hardness.

What do you guys think?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Sep 04, 2007 9:05 pm

I think that's a good idea :lol:

Could there already be one made :?:

Greg?

Improving the OEM Fuel Filter Head/system

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