As my 06' CRD with 19K on it came to a stoplight at the top of a hill, I depressed the brakes and noticed that the pedal kept
going down as I applied pressure to it. It doesn't go to the floorboard yet, but it seems that the master cylinder must be leaking internally.

Is this a common problem with Libertys?

I've seen that same thing on almost every new(er) car. Seems to be pretty normal but I have no idea why it happens.

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2006 Libery Sport CRD, Lt Kakhi, nicely equipped
*****GDE Hot Tune at 38,879 miles
*****Stock TC.....for the time being!!

Our Passat TDi has a firm pedal.

Here's a quote I found: "Bob Jasper IN wrote:
Have any of you noticed that your brake pedal will fade all the way to the foor if you press hard while stopped ? My dealer tells me all of the diesels do that. Funny it didn't start until they replaced the master cyl. I have checked other gas Liberty's and one 06 CRD , they all have a hard pedal.Am I just beeing screwed with?"

The brake pads may be worn close allowing lots of fluid behind the pistons of the calipers. This will require alot more pedal travel to stop the vehicle.

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2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

When you checked the other Libbys' were the engines running? The engines need to be running to build preasure up in the master servo.

Also i remeber reading in a Haynes Manual for my last vehicle that if the engine is running and you hold you foot on the brake pedal the pedal SHOULD sink slowly downwards and that this means that the servo is working corectly.

Yep, just went out and checked the Liberty and my GC.....both do the same thing when stopped the pedal will slowly drift towards the floor. No problem with stopping though.

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2006 Libery Sport CRD, Lt Kakhi, nicely equipped
*****GDE Hot Tune at 38,879 miles
*****Stock TC.....for the time being!!

Thanks for the replies. Guess this pedal action is normal behavio(u)r

They way it's supposed to work is as the pads wear, more fluid fills the
gap so that the pad remains in contact with the disc. The extra fluid
comes from the resevoir and return springs on the pistons in the master
cyl ensure that proper pedal travel is maintained. When the brake
warning light comes on, it usually means that your fluid is low (there is a
level switch in the reservior). This is usually because all the fluid has
moved from the reservior to the calipers because the pads have worn too
much. Don't add more fluid. When new pads are installed fluid lever will
return to normal.
The true test of a bad master cyl is at a stop light. If it feels like you
have to keep pushing the pedal a little further down just to keep
the vehicle from creeping ahead then something is wrong.
Most diesels that use hydraulic brakes use a hydraulic assist (hydraboost)
from the power steering pump. Our CRD's use vacuum assist which
should make it feel just like every other gasser you've driven.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

Same here on my KJ, kinda strange when one is bleeding them.

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2006 CRD Sport

Same here, but it takes more pedal pressure than what would seem normal to hold the vehicle at a stop. The engine really likes to pull. I have got into the habit of dropping into neutral when stopped at red lights as I figure less heat is better for the tranny-- and I don't have to push on the pedal so hard.

One day I will do the steel braided lines and see if they help.

I thought this was normal with CRD's? Something to do with how the vacuum system works if I remember correctly.

Mine has done this since new...no problem with braking power.

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It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

Check to see if any vacuum lines near the master cylinder are kinked or if possible check them for leaks.

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2005 CRD Limited Flame Red w/ Renegade rock rails & light bar, AirLift 1000. 225/75R16 MT/R's on cheap black steel wheels, dual MOPAR subwoofers, Ipod kit & seat covers, Samco hoses - totaled and gone. 2008 WK Laredo 3.0L diesel - AirLift 1000, wife won't let me mess with it much. 2013 JK Sahara on order.

My KJ makes a one time click from the brakes or brake pads when backing up. If I let go and put my foot back on the brakes it clicks for every time its pressed. Click, click, click...
Anyone else getting this too?
I took a look and its all tight.

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05 CRD Owner. Diesel good. Gas bad.

I got it... does it nearly 100% of the time. It sounds like a spring catching on something. It must not bother me too bad because I have never looked for the culprit.

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox

When you brake in reverse, you cause the anti rattle clips to compress and you hear a click, also normal.

_________________
2006 Black Jeep Liberty CRD Limited
K&N, Samco Hoses, Michelin 245/70-16 LTX A/T2, Fumoto F-102, V-Force Muffler, Mopar, Hitch, Trailer Wiring, Skid Plates, Slush Mats, Rear Shelf, Predator Stage 1, Transgo, ORM & CodeReader, Facet 40109 Pump
"IT'S A DIESEL THING, YOU WOULDN'T UNDERSTAND"
Certified Services Auto & Truck Repair

Oops, I misread that... my clicking is coming from the brake pedal area not the brake pad area

_________________
It may be that your only purpose in life is to serve as a warning to others.

06 CRD Sport
Built 5/11/06
Jeep Green
Rocklizard diff cover
V6 Airbox