LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Feb 01, 2011 10:48 pm

pretty sure Blacklib wired his to a spare fuse - the factory wiring is under the rear seat
Biohazard has a good writeup - skip to Step 7/8 for wiring
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=37868

Quiksilver · **Posted:** Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:49 am

There should be a dedicated FUEL PUMP or FUEL PRIMER fuse - this one is different in that it will run for 20 seconds when the key is "on" and then stop, unless you start the engine.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:03 pm

There is a fuel pump relay in the fuse box by the battery.
That is where I wired in my lift pump.
It took a little trial and error to find the correct pin but it works great.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Thu Feb 03, 2011 3:02 pm

Wow I didn't know that this thread is still alive.

On page one on the second part of the insulation is a picture of the battery with the fuse box open. Under the picture is the caption:
This is the wiring connection to number 5 termnial of the relay and battery ground. I had to add one foot of wiring each because the wire on the pump are short.
I hope this helps.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 6:21 pm

Wondering how this set up has held up.

I am getting ready to install a lift pump, and looking through all the different possibilities (from dropping the tank and installing an in-tank, to installing a Kennedy near the tank, to simply putting a Facet in the engine compartment).

I hadn't seen this bleeder mod until now, and I'm interested.

Looking forward to hearing how it's done over the past few years!

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:49 am

kidjedi wrote:

Wondering how this set up has held up.

I am getting ready to install a lift pump, and looking through all the different possibilities (from dropping the tank and installing an in-tank, to installing a Kennedy near the tank, to simply putting a Facet in the engine compartment).

I hadn't seen this bleeder mod until now, and I'm interested.

Looking forward to hearing how it's done over the past few years!

My guess is that the in-line pump still has the opportunity to draw in air so its still in need of a bleeder and his mod just makes it easier and less messy.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:41 pm

Cleanest install is the in-tank lift pump; no possibility of any air ingestion in the fuel system and no extra bleeders or other plumbing required...

Any leak anywhere in the system will be self evident very quickly since the entire system will be under pressure at all times!!!! :wink:

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Feb 04, 2016 2:25 pm

WWDiesel wrote:

Cleanest install is the in-tank lift pump; no possibility of any air ingestion in the fuel system and no extra bleeders or other plumbing required...

Any leak anywhere in the system will be self evident very quickly since the entire system will be under pressure at all times!!!! :wink:

Def the cleanest, it looks oem.

I can say that my jeep starts and runs much better with the intank pump. Its really not that hard to install, just a little time consuming. If I ever have to replace it it wont be bad at all since taking apart the interior and running the wiring was probably half the time involved.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 06, 2016 11:03 am

mass-hole wrote:

Def the cleanest, it looks oem.

I can say that my jeep starts and runs much better with the intank pump. Its really not that hard to install, just a little time consuming. If I ever have to replace it it wont be bad at all since taking apart the interior and running the wiring was probably half the time involved.

Everything Mass-hole stated X2!!! Wiring is more than half the install time.... :roll:

kidjedi · **Posted:** Fri Feb 12, 2016 2:53 pm

So I've got my lift pump installed (Airtex E8016S -$30). I used one of the Fuel Filter Housing mounting bolts to mount it with the included bracket, so it's nestled in right above the fuel filter housing (a great place to mount it out of the way).

Unfortunately after installing the pump when bleeding the line, I over tightened my bleeder screw and broke the housing (DOH!). I know you shouldn't tighten it too much, but even with that in mind, I still over tightened. So lesson learned: you really only need to tighten that bleeder screw a tiny bit more than "finger tight." Lucky for me, I had another CRD fuel filter housing sitting around, so I didn't have to order a new one to get back to business.

So, after that, I'd really like to install a valve at the bleeder port, instead of using the screw (because of where it's located, it's kind of a pain to get the 11mm wrench onto the screw, and a petcock valve would be SO MUCH easier). I like the recirculation mod in this thread, but the valve would just be a lot easier, with less tubing, etc. in the engine compartment.

Lubrication Specialists used to have a Bleeder Valve Kit that's mentioned in the original post on this thread. However, they no longer sell one for the CRD, only Duramax, which has a 1.0 thread instead of the Liberty 1.25 thread. I spent a while searching the net for a bleeder valve with the right thread size, and then realized a lot of generators (Honda, Generac, Briggs and Straton) use an M10-1.25mm port shutoff valve on the fuel line. Has anyone tried using one of these for a bleeder valve? I ordered one on Amazon ($8 shipped) and am looking forward to trying it out.

LIFT PUMP AND AUTOMATIC BLEEDER MOD, LONG TERM RESULTS

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