I had my OEM Red Top Optima tested at an auto parts store today because I was having to crank longer than usual (5-10 seconds) when the diesel engine was cold for the past week. Even though the temp. outside is 70-80F. I am NOT having this problem after restarting after the engine has been warmed up and only sits a couple hours. It was showing it had less than 50% a charge. They offered to charge but was told it would take several hours. Instead I purchased a charger: http://store.schumachermart.com/se-520ma.html and plan on using the 10 AMP setting.

My question is this charger only has a 12V DC output at 10 AMP's, Optima recomends: "Battery charger: 13.8 to 15.0 volts, 10 amps maximum, 6-12 hours approximate." Is the charger I purchased able to charge the battery sufficiently, will it this damage the battery, or result in poor performance or reduced capacity?

I e-mailed Optima and they replied: "The charger will need to put out our recommendations. If it does not, it can possibly under charge the battery and shorten the life of it or kill it. You will continue to have that problem with each battery once it is replaced."

I plan on using the charger out of necessity for the moment at least, otherwise should I have the dealer or auto parts store replace since it's still under the 36 mo. free replacement? Any suggestions? Thanks

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

Your starting problem sounds like air in the filter head I bought a Vecter charger at Sam's club for just under $50 and it has a setting for out MAT batteries.
http://www.battery-care.com/chargers/VEC1095a.htm

Joe

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

That charger is designed to charge lead-acid batteries. It will be fine, and it will put out the right voltage. The 12V they refer to is the nominal voltage of the battery, like all 12V car batteries. The charger will provide sufficient overheard to charge the battery.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---

The charger I have limits the voltage to AGM batteries to 14.7. Get a charger that does regular lead-acid, AGM, and deep cycle. Over voltatge will kill an AGM battery.

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08 Elantra SE daily driver
2001 F-250 powerstroke

It has three settings Manual, Automatic (Conventional, Low Maintenance) and the one I'm using Automatic (Maintenance Free / Deep Cycle)

I definitely don't think this is air in filter head issue, I have had not problems w/ my CAT filter since install Labor Day.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

I would get a warrenty replacement before using the charger. You don't want to give them an excuse to not cover it. After all if they say it's bad then let them replace it. I second the "air in the filter"as the cause. When it starts does it turn over slow or are you saying it stays on the starter too long?

I e-mailed Schumacher the charger manufacturer and received re-assurance: "the charger that you bought is more than capable of charging your battery.
The SE-520MA needs to be set to 12 volt/ conventional and it will take the battery to 14.2 volts at completion."
kudos to UFO he was right on.

I did charge the battery for a good 12+ hours and it started like new. I think the issue was my Sirius radio causing key off battery drain leaving it plugged in the DC socket 24/7. So I'm gonna deal w/ the hassle of unplugging it when not in use. My OEM cd/radio didn't have satellite, and I actually swapped it out for the wife's identical cassette/radio in the '05 PT Cruiser!? For the ease of the using a tape adapter for my mp3 player (no it's not an iPod, actually a Dell DJ)

After work today it was running rough at above 20 mph and didn't want to put out any boost. Thought I had a flat or tranny issue, but stopped checked the tires and all my hoses and re-primed the fuel filter (while running) which was soft, after that it ran fine. Which was odd because I did check it this a.m. when I re-installed the battery and the primer pump was firm. Probably need to bleed the fuel filter once more after it's warm. I only bleed it initially after I installed the CAT. But yes, I did carefully check the seals and pump for leaks and didn't see any indications.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

I bleed the fuel pump twice on Saturday night, when the engine was cold and then after it had warmed up got a little air out and everything was running fine.

It struggled for about 5 seconds last night to turn over and start and I thought maybe I didn't give the glow plug a chance but got home okay.

This morning I jumped in the Jeep to go to school gave the glow plug it's 2 seconds to turn off and it tried to crank for about 4-5 seconds and was DEAD. Turned the key off and back on, nothing. Checked and made sure I didn't leave my lights on or something plugged in but that wasn't the case. Dead optima, so I took it out and am charging it again so I can go back to the auto parts store and have it tested and replaced. No, I'm not going to the dealer, why waste my time and get a Mopar plate battery instead?

I'm just a little disappointed I had a red top optima in my '98 TJ for the last 3 years I owned it and it worked great. But it does seem as there are some defective ones.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

Blake,

There was a TSB from Jeep to re-program the BCM (Body Control Module) due to a problem in draining the battery while the vehicle sat. Has this been done to your CRD? If not you will experince exactly what you are experincing now.

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

The TSB hasn't been done to my knowledge, why would I be having the problem now? I called the auto parts store and the guy didn't sound like he wanted to do a warranty exchange he wanted to test the alternator first. So I called the dealer and am going to take it in for a look once I get a charge on the battery which definitely seems to be the culprit after my last update clarification with the manufacturer of the battery charger:

My question:
After charging about 10 hours the meter would show the "Full Charge" LED steadily for about a minute, quickly drop to 75% and then immediately back up to the "Full Charge" and repeat the cycle. After about 6 more hours I decided the battery was not going to take more of a charge. Is this the indication of a fully charged battery "meter indicates intermittent current flow to the battery" as described in the manual? Or the charger indicating that it has shut off automatically?
Response:
The Battery wants to go higher in charge voltage, you may want to : ** WITH A METER IN PLACE ** charge the battery additionally in the manual mode until the battery reaches 14.6 volts.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.

The BCM was actually a recall not a TSB and it was an F31. It did not drain the battery everytim but now and then. Te only time it drained mine was on the dealer lot before I picked it up.

OOPS, Trying to get to a meeting. Should be F21! Mine was an early 06 (Fall of 05 manufacture)

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Dave

'06 CRD Limited, Lt. Khaki, MOPAR Slush Mats/Skids, DrawTite Front Hitch, Mag Lite, Yakima Bars, Thule Bike Rack, Fumoto, ORM, 245/70 Revo 2

Wish list: Lift, Boulder Bars, Something Bigger in the Front and Back, More Lights

Actually F31 was a recall for being out of EPA compliance on the obdii port talk talking to third party scanners and was the transmission tcm.
F21 was a TSB for the body control module that drained the battery.
This is according to m=what's on my service work orders

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Ended up calling Jeep Roadside Assistance for a jump start start, after the annoying IVR I actually got a person and he contacted a local company to jump start my CRD. I was very impressed the response time was less than 15 minutes!!!! I was a bit skeptical when he was going to use a portable (hand held) jump starter the engine cranked and started. I might have to ask Santa for one of my own!

Took it to my local dealer and they were helpful in getting me in and tracking down the RIGHT battery and had it in a few hours. The battery was the source of the failure it was only putting out 400 AMPS. So hopefully no more problems, it was covered under warranty and the charger was still worth the investment.

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06 Jeep KJ CRD Sport full Mopar skids, front tow hooks, rear hitch shackle, Magnaflow muffler, Samco Sport CAC hoses, 02 Airbox mod, Unique series 42 steel wheels.