Airbox mod (warning, lots of photos)

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2013 8:38 pm

kidjedi wrote:

Thanks for the input, CATCRD. I wasn't sure if it was actually able to take in more air, or if it just repositions where it's taking the air in from.

And while I'm going to be sure to get the soot/mist out of my intake, I plan on doing it with the Full Torque Eco-boost from GDE... I'm just trying to source a Euro TC first!

Even the GDE tune won't get rid of the oily mist in the intake. A provent is the best way to prevent continued deterioration of rubber hoses in the intake.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:48 pm

CATCRD wrote:

Even the GDE tune won't get rid of the oily mist in the intake. A provent is the best way to prevent continued deterioration of rubber hoses in the intake.

Really? I thought it did the same thing as the EHM (except by disabling the MAF), which does the same thing as the Provent (basically, keeping garbage out of the CCV). Not true?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 1:00 am

kidjedi wrote:

CATCRD wrote:

Even the GDE tune won't get rid of the oily mist in the intake. A provent is the best way to prevent continued deterioration of rubber hoses in the intake.

Really? I thought it did the same thing as the EHM (except by disabling the MAF), which does the same thing as the Provent (basically, keeping garbage out of the CCV). Not true?

Nope, it cuts down on the soot getting circulated back into the intake, but that's only half the equation. A computer tune can't touch the crankcase gases.

Provent is superior to the EHM because it keeps a slight vacuum on the crankcase and keeps the gases from being vented to the atmosphere.

kidjedi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 11:41 am

CATCRD wrote:

Nope, it cuts down on the soot getting circulated back into the intake, but that's only half the equation. A computer tune can't touch the crankcase gases.

Provent is superior to the EHM because it keeps a slight vacuum on the crankcase and keeps the gases from being vented to the atmosphere.

Thanks for the info, CATCRD. I'll be sure to adjust my plans accordingly!

kidjedi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 5:14 pm

Any thoughts on where to order the Provent? My searches are coming up short (and I want to make sure I'm buying the right thing).

Thanks in advance for any links/advice.

arengant · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:11 pm

You can google Mann Provent for more options, but here is a popular one.

http://www.airnowsupply.com/filter-types/proventfilters.html

Call them to order, and get a 200 series one

kidjedi · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 6:20 pm

arengant wrote:

You can google Mann Provent for more options, but here is a popular one.

http://www.airnowsupply.com/filter-types/proventfilters.html

Call them to order, and get a 200 series one

Much obliged for the link and which series to order!

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 7:04 pm

Anyone seen the 150 series in person? Wondering if that would be a better fit for our tight engine bay.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Feb 11, 2013 8:11 pm

Apparently idparts has the provent 200 for about 140. I know I paid more on mine on eBay few years ago...

For whoever is interested:

General info about provent: https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... ent_en.pdf

Buy provent filter element from: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=2428

Buy whole kit: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=2334

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 4:42 pm

thermorex wrote:

Apparently idparts has the provent 200 for about 140. I know I paid more on mine on eBay few years ago...

For whoever is interested:

General info about provent: https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/u ... ent_en.pdf

Buy provent filter element from: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=2428

Buy whole kit: http://www.idparts.com/catalog/product_ ... ts_id=2334

HERE"S A BETTER PRICE http://www.diesel-filters.com/393107055 ... f-highway/

kidjedi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:04 pm

Looking at what to buy, there is the filter element, the actual Provent, and a check valve. It is my understanding that you would only use the valve when routing the oil back into the system (not needed when simply routing the oil drain line from the provent into a collection system... like a Coke bottle).

Is this correct? Just want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks!

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:48 pm

Correct. In theory you can also wash the filter in gasoline, dry it and then reuse it. It doesn't look as being paper filter so it should be washable. Of course, a new filter replacement won't hurt anything at all.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 5:51 pm

Dennis MacGyver wrote:

HERE"S A BETTER PRICE http://www.diesel-filters.com/393107055 ... f-highway/

Don't even want to know man, I paid for mine 200+ 2 years ago... Lol.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:35 pm

kidjedi wrote:

Looking at what to buy, there is the filter element, the actual Provent, and a check valve. It is my understanding that you would only use the valve when routing the oil back into the system (not needed when simply routing the oil drain line from the provent into a collection system... like a Coke bottle).

Is this correct? Just want to make sure I get everything I need. Thanks!

The correct return valve use (from reading the Mann Provent info).
If the hose going back to the oil pan exits BELOW the level of the oil in the pan, a valve is not needed.
IF the hose going back to the oil pan exits into the pan ABOVE the oil level in the pan, the valve is required.

Here's a cheap source for the valve.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racor-CCV55279- ... 21&vxp=mtr

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 6:37 pm

thermorex wrote:

Correct. In theory you can also wash the filter in gasoline, dry it and then reuse it. It doesn't look as being paper filter so it should be washable. Of course, a new filter replacement won't hurt anything at all.

WRONG INFO ON THE VENT !!!

The correct return valve use (from reading the Mann Provent info).
If the hose going back to the oil pan exits BELOW the level of the oil in the pan, a valve is not needed.
IF the hose going back to the oil pan exits into the pan ABOVE the oil level in the pan, the valve is required.

thermorex · **Posted:** Tue Feb 12, 2013 8:09 pm

Dennis MacGyver wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Correct. In theory you can also wash the filter in gasoline, dry it and then reuse it. It doesn't look as being paper filter so it should be washable. Of course, a new filter replacement won't hurt anything at all.

WRONG INFO ON THE VENT !!!

The correct return valve use (from reading the Mann Provent info).
If the hose going back to the oil pan exits BELOW the level of the oil in the pan, a valve is not needed.
IF the hose going back to the oil pan exits into the pan ABOVE the oil level in the pan, the valve is required.

I think he was asking if he needs a valve for the oil collector hose (the one all way at the bottom). Since he is pretty much dumping the oil (in a coke bottle not oil pan), I don't see why he would need a return valve (the atmospheric pressure will never be greater than what is in the provent filter to push the oil back to crank case or create a pressure in the provent element). If he would connect the oil collector hose back to his oil pan (as in theory we all should do), then your info is definitely correct.

Dennis MacGyver · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:05 am

thermorex wrote:

Dennis MacGyver wrote:

thermorex wrote:

Correct. In theory you can also wash the filter in gasoline, dry it and then reuse it. It doesn't look as being paper filter so it should be washable. Of course, a new filter replacement won't hurt anything at all.

WRONG INFO ON THE VENT !!!

The correct return valve use (from reading the Mann Provent info).
If the hose going back to the oil pan exits BELOW the level of the oil in the pan, a valve is not needed.
IF the hose going back to the oil pan exits into the pan ABOVE the oil level in the pan, the valve is required.

I think he was asking if he needs a valve for the oil collector hose (the one all way at the bottom). Since he is pretty much dumping the oil (in a coke bottle not oil pan), I don't see why he would need a return valve (the atmospheric pressure will never be greater than what is in the provent filter to push the oil back to crank case or create a pressure in the provent element). If he would connect the oil collector hose back to his oil pan (as in theory we all should do), then your info is definitely correct.

I agree with your statement. Right now mine goes to a bottle too. I don't use a valve to the bottle.

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:30 am

I'm not that "green", I just dump it on the road (no collector). Probably Al Gore hates me, lol, but I don't believe that few drops of oil create global warming... Especially in this cold winter.

Anybody tried to drain the oil from provent straight in the oil pan? Seems pretty straight forward, but I'd like to hear some experiences if somebody is willing to share.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 10:17 am

actually drops on the road - don't impact global warming - but they could flavor your local water supply

Gmctd had drilled his crankcase for a return on the Provent (don't think the pix are still around)
and Warp had drilled his for the Centrifuge return (a lot more volume there)

thermorex · **Posted:** Wed Feb 13, 2013 12:14 pm

Cool. Thanks for replying. Maybe one of them will read this and be kind enough to post some pics.

Airbox mod (warning, lots of photos)

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