Lift pump, fuel cooler install
Okay – not my Jeep –I’m still under warranty and not having problems –
however I’ve got a friend who’s out of warranty had some problems and decided to fix them – he’s also much more detailed – but he doesn’t like to post on forums –
I was really impressed so he said I could – I think there are some great ideas people might be interested in.
Quote:
As I mentioned, some details and pictures of my fuel system modifications.
Installed everything this weekend.
The plumbing took the longest, just figuring out and running all the hoses etc, but I think it turned out well.
I installed the Kennedy lift pump as close to the floor pan as possible then added a water/sediment trap just downstream. The trap can be seen relatively easily when on your knees and looking just in front of the rear wheel. The glass bowl should be well protected up where it is placed.
Put the Derale heat sink type fuel cooler on a heavy bit of stainless steel angle iron and bolted it to the side rail. It is almost strong enough to use as a jacking point!
I left the factory fuel filter arrangement installed, bled the system and ran the rig around the block a few times to ensure everything runs without the lift pump running. No problems.
Next move onto the engine bay and remove the OEM filter set up. Stripped down the complete assembly on the bench. Replaced the O ring between the heater puck and the head with a Viton rectangular section ring I had machined up. Installed the Cat filter adapter with a little Loctite sealant. I then put on my own version of the bleed valve but all stainless construction to minimize any reaction with brass/copper etc and Biodiesel. I went for the ultimate solution...right at the top of the injection pump supply line.
I had to make a new banjo bolt to provide enough thread length for the swivel elbow adaptor that is attached. This swivel adaptor allows you to position the plumbing in any direction then lock it in place. If you use a standard fixed fitting you won't be able to control the pipework's finished orientation. Whatever method you use there needs to be a swivel connection here. Overall height of the assembly is also critical otherwise you won’t be able to close the hood.
I then tee’d into the return line for the air vent setup, thoroughly cleaned the head assembly and bolted the completed Cat filter assembly back on.
Next came the special plumbing for the air vent, new top banjo bolt etc. The 0.55mm carburetor jet is screwed and retained inside the fitting right after the first elbow you can see in the pics. The (blue) check valve is set to crack at 2 psi. Installed the new air vent return hose and replaced all the crap OEM hose clamps.
I left the supply hose to the HP pump disconnected, primed the system and flushed enough fuel through the new filter head set up to ensure it was squeaky clean.
I then connected the lift pump electrically via the under rear seat wiring, installed the injection pump supply line and off for the first real test run.
It ran great
No playing with the pedal to accelerate - just smooth power delivery.
The trap is a Lucas CAV brand. It has four 1/2" UNF ports so you have a choice of plumbing solution.
The Viton O ring was machined up by a specialist seal supplier as a favor.
The bleed valve replaces the OEM brake bleeder and it is a small industrial needle valve.
The carburetor jet is 0.55mm. The hose from the check valve is 5/16" and connects back into the common return line. The return line is 3/8 for just the connection to the plastic return block then it reduces back to 5/16". I tee'd into the 5/16 section.
I have had no leaks from the heater connection but I have had the heater fuse removed for about three or four months. I left the cable connected so that it looked stock and it was somewhere to keep the plug!.
Installed everything this weekend.
The plumbing took the longest, just figuring out and running all the hoses etc, but I think it turned out well.
I installed the Kennedy lift pump as close to the floor pan as possible then added a water/sediment trap just downstream. The trap can be seen relatively easily when on your knees and looking just in front of the rear wheel. The glass bowl should be well protected up where it is placed.
Put the Derale heat sink type fuel cooler on a heavy bit of stainless steel angle iron and bolted it to the side rail. It is almost strong enough to use as a jacking point!
I left the factory fuel filter arrangement installed, bled the system and ran the rig around the block a few times to ensure everything runs without the lift pump running. No problems.
Next move onto the engine bay and remove the OEM filter set up. Stripped down the complete assembly on the bench. Replaced the O ring between the heater puck and the head with a Viton rectangular section ring I had machined up. Installed the Cat filter adapter with a little Loctite sealant. I then put on my own version of the bleed valve but all stainless construction to minimize any reaction with brass/copper etc and Biodiesel. I went for the ultimate solution...right at the top of the injection pump supply line.
I had to make a new banjo bolt to provide enough thread length for the swivel elbow adaptor that is attached. This swivel adaptor allows you to position the plumbing in any direction then lock it in place. If you use a standard fixed fitting you won't be able to control the pipework's finished orientation. Whatever method you use there needs to be a swivel connection here. Overall height of the assembly is also critical otherwise you won’t be able to close the hood.
I then tee’d into the return line for the air vent setup, thoroughly cleaned the head assembly and bolted the completed Cat filter assembly back on.
Next came the special plumbing for the air vent, new top banjo bolt etc. The 0.55mm carburetor jet is screwed and retained inside the fitting right after the first elbow you can see in the pics. The (blue) check valve is set to crack at 2 psi. Installed the new air vent return hose and replaced all the crap OEM hose clamps.
I left the supply hose to the HP pump disconnected, primed the system and flushed enough fuel through the new filter head set up to ensure it was squeaky clean.
I then connected the lift pump electrically via the under rear seat wiring, installed the injection pump supply line and off for the first real test run.
It ran great
No playing with the pedal to accelerate - just smooth power delivery.
The trap is a Lucas CAV brand. It has four 1/2" UNF ports so you have a choice of plumbing solution.
The Viton O ring was machined up by a specialist seal supplier as a favor.
The bleed valve replaces the OEM brake bleeder and it is a small industrial needle valve.
The carburetor jet is 0.55mm. The hose from the check valve is 5/16" and connects back into the common return line. The return line is 3/8 for just the connection to the plastic return block then it reduces back to 5/16". I tee'd into the 5/16 section.
I have had no leaks from the heater connection but I have had the heater fuse removed for about three or four months. I left the cable connected so that it looked stock and it was somewhere to keep the plug!.
