Rancho 3" Lift Doesn't Fit My CRD.....

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 12:46 am

Well I bought the Rancho kit at: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_liberty_3.html
It came today and I started with the hardest part, the driver's side.
The first thing I noticed that in the directions, they don't have the drive shaft installed. On mine, there is no way you are going to stick a CV housing through my little fork after the install of the spacer on the bottom of the shock. So my fork at the bottom of the spring is either way too narrow or I got extra fat CV joints.

The next step is to mount the spacer on the bottom of the spring, then slide the fork on the bottom of the spacer.
Then you loosen the bottom A-arm and move it outwards as far as possible. Next you just push in on the spring until the bottom of the fork aligns up with it's mounting holes and slide the bolt in. Not going to happen. Either I have extra fat coil springs or the inner fender well is out way too far. With the coil spring smashed against the inner fender wall, the bottom of the fork has at least 2" inward to go to align up with the mounting holes. Also at the same time, the top of the fork is smashing very badly into the CV boot. Something is very wrong here.

So back in the box it goes and back to Rancho for a refund.
Has anyone else had these problems? How about the Franklin lift? What so special about that?
Where do you buy the Franklin lift from?

0311_DoC · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 1:33 am

http://www.boulderbars.com/frankenlift_crd.htm

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 6:00 am

The CRD won't accept the Rancho Style or RockKrawler LIFTS. The AllJs OME lift for CRDs does work great. You can buy it unassembled for a savings over the built struts. It comes with OME front struts and rear shocks (when available)...a good investment IMO.

skywarn · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 9:14 am

Turbo Tim wrote:

Well I bought the Rancho kit at: http://www.roughcountry.com/jeep_liberty_3.html
It came today and I started with the hardest part, the driver's side.
The first thing I noticed that in the directions, they don't have the drive shaft installed. On mine, there is no way you are going to stick a CV housing through my little fork after the install of the spacer on the bottom of the shock. So my fork at the bottom of the spring is either way too narrow or I got extra fat CV joints.

The next step is to mount the spacer on the bottom of the spring, then slide the fork on the bottom of the spacer.
Then you loosen the bottom A-arm and move it outwards as far as possible. Next you just push in on the spring until the bottom of the fork aligns up with it's mounting holes and slide the bolt in. Not going to happen. Either I have extra fat coil springs or the inner fender well is out way too far. With the coil spring smashed against the inner fender wall, the bottom of the fork has at least 2" inward to go to align up with the mounting holes. Also at the same time, the top of the fork is smashing very badly into the CV boot. Something is very wrong here.

So back in the box it goes and back to Rancho for a refund.
Has anyone else had these problems? How about the Franklin lift? What so special about that?
Where do you buy the Franklin lift from?

Rough country has kinda the same thing... check out the "CRD Tech" write up on my 3" RC lift. go to there web site and download the directions. I had to use a breaker bar and a "pin" to get the first hole to line up in the fork. then used the bar to pry back the fork while my buddy used a hammer to "nail" the pin into the hole to get them to line up. After that we took the screw and screwed it in as it pushed the "pin" out

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:21 am

Skywarn,
I looked at your post and that's one of the reasons I went with the Rancho spacer lift.
When I got to that point with crushing the spring into the inner fender well to get the bottom of the fork to align up, the top of the fork was starting to do serious damage to the CV boot. To push it another 2 inches would have destroyed the CV and bent the fork for sure. That's why I quit there and am asking others what they did to cure or fix this issue.

Thanks all for your replies. I'll call All J Products and see what they say.

Also how is the ride with the Franklinlift springs?

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:28 am

They are OME Springs and it is great!!! The problem with lifting the CRD is that even tho the diff is lower than the gassers, the diff is also more to the driver's side of the vehicle...that means the driver's side CV Axle is shorter and the inner CV Boot is closer to the clevis. The good part is that with the OME lift, the lowered factory diff makes the CV Joint Angles less severe with a lift.

Johnboy · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:32 am

The new Frankenlift is easy to install, no ratchet straps, no prybars, no cv removal. I have the HDs front and rear and I like the ride (I dont mind the ride in the 77 CJ5 either). The ride is undoubtably better than stock. Your call on which spring rate to go with, I do not like a mushy ride, at all. My suspension far outperforms the stock tires in on-road driving. The lift is expensive and nice. Drives well on road, keeps all 4 feet on the ground off road, and does not include any spacers. Oh, and I have OME struts and long travel shocks, have never ridden on ranchos so I cant comment. Would not suggest much if any extra clevis gap with the HD springs, to avoid UBJ-coil contact that is.

nix · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:38 am

It's worth checking out the Rusty's Offroad 2.5" spring and strut/shock lift kit as well. www.rustysoffroad.com It's a true full 2.5" lift unlike the Frankenlift which is less. You also will pay roughly 50% less for the Rusty's kit.. with the OME shocks added. If you are adding a big honkin' metal bumper or adding a lot of additional weight you would want to avoid the Rustys though.. and go with a heavier spring kit. You won't need to use a ratchet strap, remove CVs or anything with the Rustys kit either.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 10:18 pm

I called Rancho today and got the RGA number so I could return the lift kit that doesn't fit. They did allow me to return it with some discussion, but now it's a done deal. So be aware it might not work on your CRD either!

I did look at some other kits, made calls, etc. and I have to say without a doubt, All J Products (Franklinlift) called me back, answered all my questions, gave references, etc. and was right up front about everything. We even discussed the part about how the clevis has to clear the CV boot, spring rates, types of struts, etc.
So long story short, I ordered one. Now we'll see how this one goes on.
Thanks to all for the help....

TDI4BY · **Joined:** Sun Apr 02, 2006 11:56 pm **Posts:** 644

It won't be any easier. I had the same issues with my Daystar kit. The CRD is just hard to lift on the driver side.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 11:12 pm

It will be easier...there are no internal pucs...just be careful on the drivers side...no big deal.

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:57 am

FYI as I'm told about the Frankenlift. Heather at All J Performance said something about there are now two generations of the Frankenlift for the CRD. The first generation released they asked for feedback on the installation, problems, etc. and then took all that information and improved the design for the second generation. So now supposedly the install "Should" be easier. As with anything of this nature, I'm sure there still is and will be issues that you just have to deal with.

I will let you all know how it goes as soon as I get it.

nix · **Posted:** Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:38 am

Yeah, there are several versions out there. The latest one is only a 2" lift and then "maybe some extra" as she told me once. So.. it will definately install easier.. as there is less to get in between the clevis and the top of the suspension assembly.

Rancho 3" Lift Doesn't Fit My CRD.....

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