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Racor Fuel Filter Unit
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=25537		 Page 1 of 4
Author:  1TDI4Me [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 2:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Racor Fuel Filter Unit
Who has a Racor unit on their KJ?
I took my CRD to the dealer last week for window regulators
and blower motor exchange. I mentioned the air accumulation
in the filter head and the fuel on the heater plug and they promptly
offered to get a new one in ASAP. "Well, since this unit ROTS, how about
you guys install a Racor unit if I can get one?"
"You bet. We do aftermarket ones on the Cummins all the time."
So, if I can find the one we've seen on the Aussie rigs they will gladly
put it on.
Anyone got a line on a supplier? I couldn't find it when I searched
for Racor 245 on this board or Google.

Thanks
Author:  ATXKJ [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:16 pm ]
Post subject: 
The places that have been mentioned.
http://www.maesco.com/index.shtml Maesco
http://www.blinefilter.com/index.phpBline
http://www.usdieselparts.com/Usdiesel - they have a downloadable catalog

also RetMil used a Stanadyne
http://www.stanadyne.com/new/index.asp

and don't forget the temp sensor
http://www.omega.com/toc_asp/frameset.html?book=Temperature&file=TH-44000-NPT
I think it's 44004-NPT-18

and Stan Wright's jeep page that has his install
http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/
Author:  tigafila [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:37 pm ]
Post subject: 
I've had one on for about 6000 miles, works great. It was even on for a recent warranty trip that ended in a new catalytic converter and turbo, no problems there either. Tigafila
Author:  dgeist [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 4:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
tigafila wrote:
I've had one on for about 6000 miles, works great. It was even on for a recent warranty trip that ended in a new catalytic converter and turbo, no problems there either. Tigafila


They're probably too impressed to say anything... or else they realize that the owner probably knows more about it than they do.
Author:  AndySRT [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 8:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
so would the racor require a lift pump to be installed at the same time or can i just change out the filter assembly and call it a day?
Author:  1TDI4Me [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 10:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
ATXKJ,
Thanks for the sources. I'll check them out.
Has anyone written this up for the tech section?
I would like to know how others managed the connectors
for heater, temp probe, water detector, and any advise.

Thanks again.
Author:  Threeweight [ Wed Oct 17, 2007 11:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm on the fence about this mod to, but would rather not do the full on lift pump if the filter head solves the problem. Anyone tried it sans lift pump?
Author:  tigafila [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 12:20 am ]
Post subject: 
The filter bolts right up, no lift pump needed, didn't even need to do anything to the hoses. I haven't hooked up the heater but will next week, as far as the temp sensor, it's zip tied off to the side and still connected electrically to keep the check engine light off. Tigafila
Author:  Cowcatcher [ Thu Oct 18, 2007 10:55 am ]
Post subject: 
Threeweight wrote:
I'm on the fence about this mod to, but would rather not do the full on lift pump if the filter head solves the problem. Anyone tried it sans lift pump?


There are at least two theory’s on the fuel system air problems. One is that the head leaks air at the puck, the heater and other places. The other is that under high heat conditions the fuel becomes overheated and air becomes entrapped in it in tiny bubbles. When the fuel is pulled to the injection pump rather than being pushed it creates negative pressure which draws the air out of solution and allows it to become entrapped at a high point in the system (the fuel filter).

I think that many people here that have had problems will eliminate them with a new filter head alone but others will continue to have problems unless they install a lift pump, and perhaps an air bleeder like BlackCRD and other have done.
Author:  1TDI4Me [ Sat Oct 20, 2007 1:50 am ]
Post subject: 
Cowcatcher,
I guess you have clarified what I had intended to ask. For those that have
made the switch, did it cure the air collection problems? If not then the only
thing to gain is having a better quality unit that won't leak fuel out the
connectors and create a fire risk.
So, who has tried to bleed a Racor or Stanadyne intermittently since
the install to verify the origin of the air in the stock unit as one source or
the other?
Author:  tigafila [ Sun Oct 21, 2007 9:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
I have checked several times since the install and have had zero air, not even a little. Tigafila
Author:  RTStabler51 [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:45 am ]
Post subject: 
in the Racor is the heating element or whatever it is in the bottom of the assembly?
Author:  Threeweight [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Sort of. Racor filter assemblies consist of the filter head (with the priming pump), a filter that is open on both ends, and a clear plastic bowl that screws onto the bottom of the filter (for seeing water in the fuel, as water sinks in diesel.) Bowl has screw-in sockets for a number of things (drain, fuel heater, water in fuel probe.) My understanding is that the fuel heater element is sealed to reduce the risk of fires.

PDF showing how it all works is here:

http://www.parker.com/EAD/Digital_asset ... t_id=28534

In asking around to my boating friends, it seems Racor's are the preferred units for marine diesel applications. If it is good enough for guys who venture 50 miles out into the pacific to fish for tuna and salmon, I'm thinking it is good enough for the CRD.

So far, I've had no issues with my factory filter system, and I've got 3 Mopar replacement filters. I'm planning on continuing to use the stock until either 1) it gives problems or 2) it is recalled due to the safety issues surrounding it. Either way, the replacement will probably be a Racor.

Question though... folks I've read about so far have gone with the 245 filter (45 gph), but the photos I've seen of the Racor's that came on the 2.5 CRD's in Europe and Australia is smaller (looks like a 230). Is 30 gph enough volume for the 2.8 in our Liberties?
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 7:53 am ]
Post subject: 
30gph @60mph = 2mpg - new math or old math! !

For my preferences, the top-loader cannisters, like on the late Cummins and the GM 6.5 are the way to go, if ya gotta electric lift pump - fuel enters on the top side, and dumps outta the bottom center - no chance ever of suckin' ona air bubble - remove filter from the top leaves cannister 3/4 full of fuel, so engine will start and run with no priming - BUT - external lift pump is required for full priming and air bleed
Author:  CATCRD [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ever watch the instant mpg gauge on a car while you've got it floored? It dips down into the low single digits. Not to mention our CP3 bypasses a lot of fuel. Meaning it pumps more fuel than it injects.
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 12:55 pm ]
Post subject: 
True - but as you know, 3micron in a 500gph filter head will restrict 4gph flow just as much as 3micron in a 30gph filter head - long as the inlet\outlet diameter is not reduced : 1/2" i.d. on the 500gph, 3/16" i.d. on the 30gph, it is sufficient, particularly where real estate is limited

And the proposed lift pump installations are very helpful in that area, as any flow restriction results in aeration and cavitation in a draw-type system - pulling fuel from the bottom of the filter cannister would be more helpful than the top-draw system on the Jeep
Author:  ATXKJ [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 1:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
I'm thinking that for those folks who have continuing problems - the Racor filter head is the minimum neccessary to fix it. that gets you to the point of what the factory had intended for a vacumn system.

an optimal solution would be more along the lines of lift pump, initial filter (Racor 645 & 30 micron filter were mentioned on the diesel boards), Racor 245 main filter with 2 micron + heater + temp sensor, some sort of vent to return line and a fuel cooler on the return line.


I haven't seen examples of a Racor with vent return line yet but we've had a couple of good ideas on the stock filter head (they still keep the plastic heater puck that I don't like).

gmctd
you've mentioned the draw type pull for the bottom filter - do you know of any examples that might fit in a CRD?
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 1:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
With slight modification, the 5.9 Cummins and the GM 6.5 fuel managers are both bottom-outlet aluminum cannisters, both have WIF sensor and drain, both have fuel heaters, both are top-load units, where the top screws off to replace the filter element - both require external prime, as in aux lift pump.

- the Cummins is banjo-type fuel fittings, made by Fleetguard

- the GM is hose barb for rubber hose\clamps, made by Stanadyne

Wix filters available for both

Both use vertical bolt mounting to a horizontal surface - the Jeep uses horizontal bolt mounting to a vertical surface- a piece of angle bracket would be easiest adapter

That fuel temp sensor will be a problem in any case other than stock, but a simple fuel-return line cooler would certainly alleviate that
Author:  ATXKJ [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
temp sensor is a required input for the computer - it'll Limp without it.
however assuming the Omega thermocouple is the right output (and we would like a response from the folks who've tried it). It becomes a question of finding the opening. (Stan Wright's webpage makes it look like an easy install)
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Oct 22, 2007 2:19 pm ]
Post subject: 
I meant it could simply be left hanging with a cooler install - once I get ours apart, other options may also present - a simple "T" in the input line would suffice, or in the input banjo-bolt, etc - possibly I can get pictures of these posted, this week
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