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 Post subject: Cleaning the CRD's engine bay
PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 12:28 pm 
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I would have posted this in the detailing section, but it's CRD specific, or a least i thought it might be...

What do y'all use to get the grime out of the engine bay (under the vanity engine cover, etc) that will also be effective on the thicker residue caused my minor seepage of diesel in the fuel filter area? I was thinking of just mixing up a spray bottle of simple green solution and spot-spraying it on all the dirty parts, then using a soft brush on the noticeably cruddy stuff. Would SG be safe to spray near sensors and what-not assuming I didn't use a pressuriesd stream to drive it into anything?

Dan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 2:31 pm 
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I use autozone's brand of engine cleaner and hot water - my reinforced garden hose is connected to the bottom spigot on the water heater in the garage - 'zone's grease-cleaner washes off white, so causes no naybor-related concerns - and it leaves the surfaces residue-free, suitable for painting, if necessary - the ~140deg hot water quickly evaporates, and you can crank the engine to finish the job.

The green stuff is ok for the dirt and mud if the engine is not too grease-grimy, and for an after-wash with the 'zone stuff

FYI - never wash a hot Diesel engine, just down from operating temps - if you can comfortably place your palm on any surface, incl the oil pan, it is safe to wash - engine mass is much greater than a gasser (patooie!) to sustain the high stresses of Diesel operation - cold water causes greater stress in the much thicker components, and can result in cracks and breakage.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 5:58 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
[...something that included 'gasser'] (patooie!) [...]


Can I hear an Amen! brothers and sisters?!?!?!? :lol:

Sorry, I've noticed that twitch of yours in three or four posts in a row now, and couldn't let it pass without comment!

...with you in the line with the green (West of the Rockies) colored fill nozzles!

Mark
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:11 pm 
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Yep - just picture the grizzled old Diesel mechanic with a definite distaste for anything not Diesel, and with a constant chaw in his cheek - ask him a question, and he pulls the slightly dirty red shop towel outta his pocket, wipes his hands as he carefully considers the answer, squints at the sun, then pronounces judgement in carefully-measured drawl - if not Diesel related he shows his scorn with a curt, well-aimed splat of 'baccy-juice between the feet of some brash young whipper-snapper with a hemi - talk about beatin' yer hasty retreat - sort of a Gary Cooper type of guy.

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 5:53 am 
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gmctd wrote:
FYI - never wash a hot Diesel engine, just down from operating temps - if you can comfortably place your palm on any surface, incl the oil pan, it is safe to wash - engine mass is much greater than a gasser (patooie!) to sustain the high stresses of Diesel operation - cold water causes greater stress in the much thicker components, and can result in cracks and breakage.



Is that just when the engine is shut off? Is it ok to submerge the underbelly in cool water (i.e. water crossings) when the motor is running? I have never heard of any concern about this before.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 11:38 am 
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The old wives' tale about 'ya can''t wash a Diesel' has basis in fact - cold water on a hot engine causes localized stress which can result in warps and cracks - cracked exhaust manifolds can be first sign of problems - that rigid cast-aluminum pan is worrisome in instantly submerged situations, 180deg inside, suddenly 80deg outside - oil pans have generally been of drawn steel, flexible, stress-resistant - have we not heard because they do not fail, or because the failures are not part of any forum membership?

What percentage of forum membership actually offroads, and what percentage of those splashes and 'mudzit' every chance they get?

Scare tactics? Yes - unless it's an emergency situation, best bet is to take it slow, allow gradual temperature change - which used to be the normal approach for off-roading and 'fording', anyway.

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 1:00 am 
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gmctd wrote:
The old wives' tale about 'ya can''t wash a Diesel' has basis in fact - cold water on a hot engine causes localized stress which can result in warps and cracks - cracked exhaust manifolds can be first sign of problems - that rigid cast-aluminum pan is worrisome in instantly submerged situations, 180deg inside, suddenly 80deg outside - oil pans have generally been of drawn steel, flexible, stress-resistant - have we not heard because they do not fail, or because the failures are not part of any forum membership?

What percentage of forum membership actually offroads, and what percentage of those splashes and 'mudzit' every chance they get?

Scare tactics? Yes - unless it's an emergency situation, best bet is to take it slow, allow gradual temperature change - which used to be the normal approach for off-roading and 'fording', anyway.


I offroad abit and a few others with CRD's in AZ do. I stay away from water for the most part... we don't have much in AZ to begin with and I don't want to take a diesel through anything too deep. Putting water in the turbo intake does not sound like fun. I have had it in the mud up to the top of the wheels before the lift and I have had to drive through water about a foot and a half deep, as well (to get to work-- road washes out about once a year). In both cases it was already raining pretty heavy at the time, so I am sure everything was already getting wet. I also checked the airbox afterward on both occasions and it was bone dry at the filter. A few drops were in the bottom of the airbox the last time. I change the diffs afterwards too, but I have yet to notice any milky water contamination when doing so.

I do have a snorkel waiting to put on, but mainly to help with dirt injestion when caravan driving-- and to make d4mn sure no water goes in the intake... and to piss off those that hate the KJ. I will continue to do crossings here and there, but will take my time. If I have any trouble with the pan, etc, I will post.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 3:27 am 
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gmctd wrote:
The old wives' tale about 'ya can''t wash a Diesel' has basis in fact - cold water on a hot engine causes localized stress which can result in warps and cracks - cracked exhaust manifolds can be first sign of problems - that rigid cast-aluminum pan is worrisome in instantly submerged situations, 180deg inside, suddenly 80deg outside - oil pans have generally been of drawn steel, flexible, stress-resistant - have we not heard because they do not fail, or because the failures are not part of any forum membership?

What percentage of forum membership actually offroads, and what percentage of those splashes and 'mudzit' every chance they get?

Scare tactics? Yes - unless it's an emergency situation, best bet is to take it slow, allow gradual temperature change - which used to be the normal approach for off-roading and 'fording', anyway.


When I take the old mans offroad I like to hit the water:
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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 10:14 pm 
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Pretty cool picture. I'm going to use if for wallpaper for a while. :)


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