Ok its time again to change the oil one question i have is how the heck do you get half a quart of oil in filter? If you look straight down theres a thingy in there keeping oil from going in.

You answered your own question.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

My recollection from the last change is that the filter sits sideways... so I just put enough oil in (let it 'perk' between shots) to maybe hit 1/3 full, so that it didn't just run back out when I turned it sideways to screw it on.

Figuring that something was better than nothing, the goal being to minimize the 'dry' time on the first start.

Since it's full synthetic - it's not running dry long enough to be a problem - but I'd avoid anything but idle until the oil pressure registers that first time.

Mark
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2005 Liberty CRD
2004.5 Cummins 5.9L TD, F1s, NV5600 6-speed in a '93 GMC Suburban

Oh, that's easy! Just pull the spark distributor wire off and crank the engine until you get oil pressure.

(How would you do this, anyway?)

- Chris

¿Que?

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U.S. Army Retired

LOL with a diesel you have a slight problem. Even without glow plugs it can start itself just by compression heat. Unless your engine is cold enough you can start it easily without pre-heating just by turning the key to start.

No what you should do is just put the oil filter in with as much oil in is as you could handle during installing it. If you don't fill it up it shouldn't be much of a problem. I just changed oil in mine and I ran it at idle speeds until the oil lamp went out. That took about 5-8 seconds though. At each start procedure you will also see the oil pressure lamp glowing for a few seconds, so I can't see why an oil change would be much worse than one week of cold starting the engine anyway.

Seems to be too little to make a fuss about IMO.

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L.O.S.T forever!
Silver 2002 Skoda Fabia TDI, 235,000km
Former car: Jeep KJ 2003 CRD

DIESEL - saving millions of liters of petrol every day!

Yes, I know how a diesel works. I was just wondering if there was a quick way to disable the fuel (pulling a fuse, etc.) if you wanted to prime the engine. On my old turbo 2.2L Dodge, it was easy enough to just pull the coil wire in plain view. Obviously this is not an option on the CRD, but if there was something quick and easy like pulling an underhood fuse and cranking for a few cranks, I'd spend the extra 30 seconds doing it. I agree that it's overkill, but I don't mind overkill when it's easy.

- Chris

If you are trying to prime a "dry" motor, i.e. one that has no oil on the
bearing surfaces, it doesn't matter if you have spark or fuel or not. Even if
your cranked the motor by hand you would still have "dry" bearings
rubbing against each other. So, in order to prevent this, you have to only
turn the oil pump. I don't know how to do this on the CRD, but...

When I built the motor for my Mustang. Before I cranked it over for the
first time I pulled the distributor out and attached a socket wrench to the
oil pump drive shaft. I then manually turned the oil pump without moving
any other engine parts. This method pumped oil to all the parts of the
engine to ensure that none of the rotating parts were dry before cranking.

All I'm really trying to say is that when doing an oil change none of this
should be an issue. If all the parts were "wet" before you drained the oil
they should still be wet after you put in new oil and filter. The brief moment
where the oil pump is still trying to fill the filter and build pressure should
not be detrimental.

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U.S. Army Retired

FWIW, Benz recommended shutting off fuel on their diesel engine starts if it had been more than a few days between starts on an installed or assembled engine. The sentiment was that there was a lot more load on some critical bearings when combustion was going on than when the engine was just turning.

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George Reiswig
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD
Suncoast, SEGR, lift, InMotion tune, homebrew B100
At 138k, new head & gasket, timing belt, rockers and swearing vocabulary

You can't prefill the Mopar filter, but I installed an oversized Mobil 1 EP M1-301 at the last change that you can prefill. Got almost a quart into it even when turning it sideways. Plenty of clearance for the skidplate, and the gasket matches.

Thats some good info! I would have thought that the load from compression
would be bad too. Makes me wonder why those bearings were not retaining
any oil.

Mobil 1 EP M1-301? I think thats the same as a FRAM PH8A or Moto FL-1A.
I didn't know that filter would fit. I thought the threads were different.

Last time I changed my oil I used a Napa filter. I was able to prime the
filter a little bit but not all the way to the top. I would slowly fill it, tip it on
its side without it spilling, and roll it around to get all the oil soaked into
the element.

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U.S. Army Retired

If i remmember correctly my 4.0 wranglers had ph16s and many dudes where gettting ph8? Im having a hard time beliving they fit. Im tempted to return the $13 mopar filter and just running wix gold $6 yes there no thingy in the filter so i can fill no problem. Any place that sells the fuel filter cheaper? Paid dealer $49 seems ive seen the same speced for $13 online but not sure if its the right one.

Uh, huh. Yup.

I run PH8s on my cherokees, I think it was the renix era XJs that didn't have a 90 degree oil tree attached to the block, the PH8 would then not clear the framerail, however on the newer XJs with the filter tree, it will fit.

Dunno nothing about it on the CRD. From what I remember, the PH8 is a good deal shorter than the mobil 1 filter, but also a good deal wider. I cannot speak to clearance issues that way.

However if it did fit, it might be a better solution than the mobile.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Last 3 oil changes here used Purolator Pure ONE, PL25230. No problems.
Fuel filter using Wix filter. Napa # 33647
Since Orm, only 1 oil change ago, oil is still black but not dirty and sooty.
I am happy

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06 Silver Liberty
EHM/SEGR
Fumoto Oil Drain
No rock climbing
No mudding
Hangs behind my
motorhome on tow bars. Semi-retired and still learning.

Oh man, this could be confusing.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

I've always changed my own oil in my '05 CRD (and many, many other vehicles over the years) and have never worried about putting oil in the new filter before installing it. Just be sure that you get the fresh oil into the engine and start it before all of the old oil has time to drain down into the pan (which would obviously take a long time unless you've been using sewing machine oil in the engine) and let it just idle until the oil pressure comes up (and the idiot light goes off).

Ten seconds without oil is bad sure the engine will be ok but what about the oil pump, gears and stuff. Im tempted to run mobil one 301 but im having issues with my engine and doing lab test on the oil. blah blah lol.

See? You're having engine troubles. I have none. You pre-load your oil filters. I don't. I rest my case!

(Just kidding. The main reason I've never had engine issues is that I've always used Havoline!)

In the underhood fuse box, if you pull the 25 amp fuel injector fuse, you can crank 'till your heart's content. Didn't seem to throw any codes either. I finished up an oil change today and gave it a try. With the OEM filter bone dry, I cranked it for 10 to 15 seconds 4 different times waiting at least 1 minute between cranking sessions. This was not enough to get the oil light to go out. I got impatient and put the fuse in, and when I started it, I had oil pressure in about 5 seconds. That's an improvement since I've seen it take as long as 10 seconds after an oil change.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k