Installation Complete
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http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/2 ... lerProject
1. This is a difficult project. Bending the 3/8" AL tubing to fit is challenging. Using flexible hose would be difficult (maybe not practical) also due to the angles. Maybe if you used a lot of hose. I was looking for neat and tidy.
2. There is only about a foot of 3/8" hose, supply line, used on the CRD, stock vehicle. This does not give a good splice-in point. Worse yet, this hose is buried deep in the engine compartment, looped over the radiator hose. If using the return line, it is longer and there is more places to splice into. This may make more sense for installation (especially with hose). For performace, i wanted to have the auxilary see the hot fluid first, thus minimising the thermal load on the radiator stack. This may be "not worth it" given the hassles of tube flaring and tight work space.
3. The barbed-to-AN6 adapter is hard to push into the 3/8" hose. I has only able to get the second of the two barbs just barely into the hose. One thing for sure, ... they are in there tight. Just not completely pushed in. Hose clamps for extra leak insurance.
4. The AN fittings require the use of a tube flaring. I borrowed a 45 deg flaring tool from Autozone. This 45 deg flare is not the optimum for the 37 deg AN fitting. It will cost another $30 to buy the correct 37 deg tool from summit. I did some fit tests and I believe the 45 to 37 deg flare mismatch will be okay at the low tranny fluid pressures (no leaks so far).
5. I lost about 1/4 quart of fluid during the splicing. I used plugs to stop the flow from the tranny. The radiator side dripped only slowly.
6. I added another 1/4 quart for the aux cooler and lines volumes.
7. At idle and parked, there is definely air passing through the rail cooler. I believe this is due to the 1.5" gap between the radiator and the intercooler that lets air come up, rather than through the intercooler-AC-tranny radiators. The new rail cooler completly blocks this gap, for good or bad.
8. The rail cooler is up high, well protected. You would have to crush body steel to damage the rail cooler. From a wheeling perspective, I am happy with this install.
9. I am happy with the use of "jack-nuts" as threaed inserts into the raiator support bracket. The 1/2" deep voids formed by the structural ribbes in this plastic part are well suited to this expanding anchor. the brackets built into the Derale rail are all that is needed. By great luck, the hole spacing matches perfectly with the CRD void spacing. I will have to make a sketch to indicate which voids to use.
This is the parts list from Summit
DER-13225 FRAME RAIL COOLER KIT 1
SUM-220633-2B 6 AN TUBE NUTS 2PK BLK 2
SUM-220634-2B 6 AN TUBE SLEEVES 2PK BLK 2
SUM-220756 TWIST-TITE -6/-6 ADAPTER 2
ACE
3 ft , 3/8" Aluminum, soft (annealed) refrigeration tubing
1/4-20, short jack screw insert
10-24, short jack screw insert
1/2 long 1/4-20 and 10-24 socket head cap screws with lock washers
qty 2, Hose clamps for 1/2" od hose (just barely big enough, try next size up)
about $50, not including tools (bender and flaring) or 1/2 quart fluid or $10 shipping
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