Oil leak caused by bad oil pan

kjfishman · **Posted:** Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:18 pm

Anybody else been told the oil pan must be replaced to fix a leak? At least we have the extended warranty so will only be out $100. I thought I read a few others had oil pans replaced but the search engine didn't come up with anything.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jan 21, 2008 11:24 pm

kjfishman wrote:

Anybody else been told the oil pan must be replaced to fix a leak? At least we have the extended warranty so will only be out $100. I thought I read a few others had oil pans replaced but the search engine didn't come up with anything.

when you fix it can you request to keep the old part?

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Hmm, did this issue come up after said dealer did an oil change for you?

kjfishman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:34 am

Threeweight wrote:

Hmm, did this issue come up after said dealer did an oil change for you?

Yes it did, I told them it seems odd that it was ok until the oil change. I am going to want to see the part.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2008 8:36 am

The CRD oil pans are aluminum and will strip the threads easier than the typical steel pans mechanics are used to. They may have stripped or cross-threaded the pan so that it now leaks past the bolt, and are asking you to eat the repair.

If this is what happened, offer to run it through your warranty anyway, but ask them to cover the deductible.

- Chris

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:05 am

kjfishman wrote:

Threeweight wrote:

Hmm, did this issue come up after said dealer did an oil change for you?

Yes it did, I told them it seems odd that it was ok until the oil change. I am going to want to see the part.

One thing that can cause this is when the copper washer is not put on the drain plug, the plug damadges the first thread or so

Then on the next change the plug won't go back on and the threads strip :shock:

Joe

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

The dealer's mechanic either cross-threaded or over-torqued your oil drain pug, stripping out the threads in the aluminum. They are now trying to get you eat part of the cost of the fix.

I'd push very hard for them to cover your deductable.

kjfishman · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2008 9:46 pm

Threeweight wrote:

The dealer's mechanic either cross-threaded or over-torqued your oil drain pug, stripping out the threads in the aluminum. They are now trying to get you eat part of the cost of the fix.

I'd push very hard for them to cover your deductable.

They still have the Jeep and I told them that's what I suspected but they haven't answered yet. I will insist on seeing the pan. So why didn't they just drop the pan and put in a helocoil (sp?). Now they said they found the radiator was cracked and they ordered the radiator and will cover it with the pan so I only pay one deductible. I still am going to push to have them cover the delectable.

I have a 5.4L F150 loaner and would rather drive my 4 cly diesel.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Tue Jan 22, 2008 10:07 pm

Sometimes a trainee mechanic can be dyslexic and confuse clockwise from counterclockwise and then use a 24 inch breaker bar with a six foot cheater.

Another possibility is they used an 3/4 inch air impact wrench and had it set to tighten when they meant to set it to loosen.

I use a long combination wrench on mine and my Wifes TDI along with allot of others in the past with aluminum pans with no problems.

I have seen stripped and fixed many more stripped drain plug holes on steel pans than aluminum. :!:

Steve

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

Have you gotten good service from this dealer in the past?

This is the first time I've heard of a cracked radiator on a CRD. Cracked how? Cracked at a mounting point? If the radiator itself was cracked you'd be leaking coolant and have an overheated engine. If that wasn't happening when you drove the Jeep in, I don't see how it cracked on its own during an oil change.

I may be too cynical, but it almost sounds like a bad dealer tacking on another "fix" to make covering the deductable for their screw-up more palatable.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2008 3:29 am

warp2diesel wrote:

Sometimes a trainee mechanic can be dyslexic and confuse clockwise from counterclockwise and then use a 24 inch breaker bar with a six foot cheater.

Steve

I have done it.... to a triaxel dump truck.... my boss was MAD to say the least.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2008 4:24 am

Joe Romas wrote:

One thing that can cause this is when the copper washer is not put on the drain plug, the plug damadges the first thread or so

Then on the next change the plug won't go back on and the threads strip :shock:

Joe

ONE AND ONLY time I let the dealer change the oil (when in for 4 X 4 service), that's exactly what they did. Fortunately, the next time that plug came out was to install a Fumoto drain valve. I realized what was going on from the way the plug felt when starting to unscrew it, and screwed it gently in and out several times to clean up the threads somewhat before completely removing it. That left the threads in good enough shape to install the Fumoto and get a good seal. As Don Adams used to say on "Get Smart", "missed a new oil pan by THAT much". :wink:

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:11 am

I don't want to start a conspiracy theory, but the parts people may have ordered a CRD oil pan and radiator instead of a 3.7 by mistake and have them gathering dust on the shelf :idea:

Since MO is the Show Me State, have them show you the leak:!:
They may be trying to unload these items onto you and Chrysler LLC instead of getting stuck with them:!: :!:

If they get caught, you may be surprised :shock:

that your extended warranty was denied and you get stuck with the bill :!:

Since a Helicoil or Keen-Sert is an oversize thread that has a larger cross sectional area, this would be more of an upgrade than a cheap fix :idea:

Years ago, I swapped a block for a new one on an old International B-275 that had a BD-144 Diesel engine that had Helicoils in all of the head bolt holes in the block to add more strength to prevent stripping. For the first generation of VW Diesels, I kept Helicoils in my tool box for repair of stripped head bolt holes in the block. When VW went to torque to yield head bolts on the next generation of the 1.6L, this problem diminished.

Steve

kjfishman · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:19 pm

They admitted the threads were stripped but told me "the threads wear out" right,surely it wasn't from them cross threading. So I asked why not use a helocoil (SP)and they said those are only temporary. I think it last longer than 8 oil changes. I didn't know the engine was so fragile. And the have nerve enough to want the $100 deductible.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:29 pm

When you go in a stealership, you have to wear hip boots the amount of chit going around. It gets real deep when they screw something up. It's a shame because they are the ones that have factory trained mechanic. Hmmmm, where's my hip boots. :-)r

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:03 pm

Last time I changed my oil I saw that there was no washer on the plug.
The threads looked clean and the plug went in and out ok, so I just put
some teflon paste on the threads and didn't crank it down all the way.
No leaks.
I will try to remember to do the Fumoto for the next change.

Oil leak caused by bad oil pan

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