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Another "Which Lift" question now with stipulation
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=28710		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  rider586 [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 7:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Another "Which Lift" question now with stipulation
Help, the more I search and read on forums the more I get confused (To the point the CRD should have burst into flames the day I drove it off the dealers lot 60,xxx miles ago). Start looking at Vendors websites and I get even more confused. So here are the details:

2005 CRD Liberty with 60,xxx on the old girl
Because of the 60K shocks and struts have been factored in to my project.
Used quite a bit for towing everything from a 22 ft Sea Ray, a trailer loaded with 30 sheets of MDF or a 16 ft racetrailer with 2 dirt bikes and all the associated stuff needed.
Used to stiffer suspension, the Liberty is a downsize from from a long time affair with various 3/4-1 ton trucks
Off Road defined by me is the gravel road and dirt parking lot at the motocross track or the boat launch at the cabin
Looking for 1 1/2 to 2" of lift , just enough to get that climbing in feel like one of my old pickups
Would prefer not to break the bank (would like to be in the 200-350 range) not including shock and strut pricing

When replying please be more specific than Brand X is junk cause my buddy says so or Brand Y blows cause my struts started leaking. Perhaps the struts were leaking due to the 110,000 miles on them? I think you get the message.

Would some sort of spacer lift work for my needs ? I get leary with springs due to the fact most vendors are looking for the most travel/lift with out issues while out on the trail, not the 5000lbs of boat you have on the back jeep every other weekend.

Thanks in advance
Rich
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
For ~$800.00 you can get a complete (unassembled) OME CRD lift with springs/shocks/struts. That is probably the Best "Bang for the Buck" and best handling lift out there for the CRD. AllJs carries it and it includes the "L" longer rear shocks.

By the time you buy a spacer or puc lift and add struts and shocks...you will be close and still stuck with OEM (stock ) springs. You will find many on here with the OME Lift and very happy with it...me included.
It rides so much better than stock...adds about 2.25" of lift...does not put the UBJoints in contact with the front struts and keeps the CVAxle angles almost flat (they go from slightly upturned to slightly downturned.

Slide show:

Image
Author:  JJsTJ [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 8:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
It sounds like you would be happiest w/ an OME lift w/ the heavier duty springs and longer rear shocks and no spacers. Another option for towing would be to add a rear air bag. I know a few have done that for towing and they report it helped.
Author:  jsc7002 [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 10:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
go OME HD I just installed mine and I gained 3 1/8" front and rear the ride is great and it looks 100x better, it does take some time though, it took me and my dad about 15 hrs :oops: lol first time for both of us and we didnt have strut compressors that would fit so that took alot of time and doing it ALL by hand made it take even longer
Author:  rider586 [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:10 pm ]
Post subject:  thanks for the replies so far but....
How does it tow with 5000 lbs behind it with the ome kit? If you have proper springs why would you need to bag it in the rear? Remember I am not looking for 2.5 or 3.5" of lift. Does the UBJ make contact when the suspension is in what position fully compressed or fully extended , remember folks off road is the boat launch or a gravel road.... Sturts and Shocks I have a friend in that industry so I am not worried about that cost.
Author:  MightyCRD [ Sat Jan 19, 2008 11:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: thanks for the replies so far but....
rider586 wrote:
How does it tow with 5000 lbs behind it with the ome kit? If you have proper springs why would you need to bag it in the rear? Remember I am not looking for 2.5 or 3.5" of lift. Does the UBJ make contact when the suspension is in what position fully compressed or fully extended , remember folks off road is the boat launch or a gravel road.... Sturts and Shocks I have a friend in that industry so I am not worried about that cost.


Rich,

I'm going to recommend the OME lift as well - here is why:

I have had my OME suspension kit installed since mid October. The ride is outstanding - much more controlled than stock. I have not towed 5000 lbs with it, but I have had well over 500 lbs of crap in the back and a passenger to boot - this would be the (technically) maximum allowed tongue weight allowed as per factory specs. The ride was still spectacular; handling was outstanding - very smooth, controlled and predictable. Body lean is less than factory. I am running the OME HD rear springs, and the OME CRD springs up front (only available at AllJ's) - amazingly, even though the front springs are rated heavier than factory, they STILL ride better than the factory. I have ran my Jeep off-road on several trails since installing the kit, and the flexibility is amazing. I have had no issues with UBJ contact at all.

One of the many reasons that I recommend this kit is how it works well as a system - the struts and shocks are simply AMAZING at controlling body roll and smoothing out rough surfaces. They are extremely well-built, and well tuned for the Liberty. I personally don't think that it's possible to go wrong with this kit.
Author:  jinstall [ Sun Jan 20, 2008 7:27 am ]
Post subject: 
I might be interesed as well in a spring lift only. I want to use Koni adjustable dampeners. Not really looking for a high kit as I tow and drive very fast in curves.
Author:  Fulltimer [ Sun Jan 20, 2008 8:27 am ]
Post subject: 
jinstall wrote:
I might be interesed as well in a spring lift only. I want to use Koni adjustable dampeners. Not really looking for a high kit as I tow and drive very fast in curves.


That may be your undoing. A KJ is not a sports car.

Terry
Author:  chrispitude [ Sun Jan 20, 2008 9:04 am ]
Post subject: 
I would not want to tow with a lifted KJ. 500lbs in the cabin is much different than 500lbs way out past the rear axle on the hitch ball. Over bumps, that static 500lbs will become a much greater force as both the tow vehicle and towed load bounce around. 500lbs of static weight will not simulate the dynamics of 5000lbs of trailer trying to wag the dog.

- Chris
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Sun Jan 20, 2008 1:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
OME lift with 235/75/16 tires...towed 2000 pounds like it wasn't even there...handles better than stock but it is not a sports car...no UBJ contact.
Author:  jsc7002 [ Sun Jan 20, 2008 3:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
I havent towed with my new coils on but it should handle it better and have less sagging, but I tow every once in a while and when I do tow its close to 5000#
Author:  rider586 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:47 pm ]
Post subject:  So when does contact occur with the UBJ?
Does the dreaded contact occur with suspension completely extended or compressed or both? Does it occur with all heights of lifts or more so with the 2.5 and 3 lifts?
Author:  rider586 [ Thu Jan 24, 2008 1:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Okay I am still not convinced but have a new question
So when does UBJ occur , suspension fully compressed, extended or both? Does this happen more the higher you go? If you raise it 1 1/2 to 2" is the problem the same as if it was raised 3"
Author:  tomasnc [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 10:15 pm ]
Post subject:  OME ????
Does OME stand for original manufacturers equipment? :)

Is the 235 the largest tire you can use w/o trimming and using this kit?

Heather mentioned that 245's are the max b4 you'll have to trim and do some hammering. I am paraphrasing Heather.

Thanks

Tom
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Fri Jan 25, 2008 11:33 pm ]
Post subject: 
OME is "Old Man Emu" in this case...it is a very well known suspension company from "Down Under".

UBJ contact occurs at "full droop" and becomes more prevalent the higher you lift. That is why the Old Man Emu works so well on the CRD...just a bit under 2.5" and no contact.

235/75/16s are the biggest we have found with mo cutting or trimming. You might still hit the front sway bar at full lock but that is not big deal...just back off the steering wheel a tad and you are good to go.
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