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Provent Install.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=29747		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Bill.Barg [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:11 am ]
Post subject:  Provent Install.
I finished my Provent installation.
See http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/J ... 8292493170 for da picture

Maybe of interest to y'all;

1. 5/8" ID braided, clear PVC
2. I used copper tube reducers to take the provent inlet and outlet down to 5/8". The copper fits inside the provent ports snuggly, then hose clamps keep it in place. Copper 5/8 elbows at the CCV
3. The copper fittings make a nice tight fit to the 5/8" ID PVC tubing. I decided not to use any hose clamps at this interface (since the system is under vacuum)
4. I used black nylon sheathing over the PVC to make it look a little more stock.
5. I have the Provent drain port plugged, temporarilly.
6. I can pull out the Provent and go back to stock in 30 seconds, if required (I still have 35 kmiles of extended warranty)

I am considering finding a way to automatically drain to the oil pan via the dip stick port. This will require a check valve and a long tubing route. Once more that 4 or 5 inches of oil is in the drainline it will, by gravity overcome the 0.75 psi vacuum and push throught a lightly sprung check valve. Hmmm? Is this worth it? First I will see how much oil I get in 2 kmiles

Bill
Author:  CATCRD [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:17 am ]
Post subject: 
Looks good. Heck it looks stock. But I was using that clear braided hose and the end above the valve cover got very brittle and started to crack and leak there after about 15k miles. That was the stuff from Home Depot, definitely not rated for that temp. Now I'm using black heater hose, so we'll see how that goes.
Author:  Bill.Barg [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:27 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the PVC degredation info.
Ya, I will be looking for a tube material a little better suited, maybe from Mcmaster Carr.

I thought that the "heater tube" (EPDM rubber?) would also degrade and weep oil?
Author:  Uffe [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 4:42 am ]
Post subject: 
Not good idea to place that tube below the coolant reservoir. Get that tube further up. Your boost hose will clamp it hard against the coolant reservoir when you hit the funny pedal in the car. My reservoir has lots and lots of wear marks on it in the corner closest to the boost hose.

Had that problem on my install before I saw this, we use the same spot for the can.

Another thing - how did you get the hose which attaches to the turbo inlet to come off? I had to leave mine there because it was on so tight! I had it extended to reach on to the can spot instead.
Author:  Bill.Barg [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:18 am ]
Post subject: 
Right, Uffe... you have a good point. I will re-route.

I had a new "CCV" put in under warrranty two weeks ago. They put in a new hose at that time also. The hose came off really easy.

Thanks
Author:  dgeist [ Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:46 am ]
Post subject: 
Looks good (and a lot like mine, actually). I ended up using that braided PVC hose as well and a couple elbows near the coolant res. That seemed to remove some of the stresses. Also, I put a "snugged" tie-wrap anywhere there was a loop on the res. to keep things from moving around. I also routed the CCV outlet over the provent->intake line where they cross. It seemed to keep things straighter.

For the hose, I think I'll convert to hydraulic line at some point. It's cheaper than fuel line and I think has similar oil resistance. I definitely need to replace the PVC, though, as it does seep at the joints even if it's clamped (nature of the beast).

For the drain, i used some 1/2 tube to route past the vacuum assembly, under the airbox, and down near the front edge of the skid by the passenger-side bulkhead, tie wrapping as appropriate along the way. There's a brass hose-barb fitting clamped on the hose and with a screw-in NPT plug at the bottom end and it doesn't leak a bit (unlike the little plastic water-cooler valve I started with...) . I can easily peek at the line under the bumper and when it gets filled up enough, pop off the plug, drain, clean with some paper towels and replace.

Dan
Author:  Bill.Barg [ Mon Oct 05, 2009 11:44 pm ]
Post subject:  Clear PVC fails miserably for Provent install
After 1.6 years the 5/8" ID braided, clear PVC that I used for the Provent install failed miserably. :cry:
The tubing got very brittle and hard.... then the hose clamp connections failed.
Some oil ended up dripping down to the bellhousing.. tipping me off to the problem.

Anyway... the provent is out. Any good suggestions for long term oil resistant flexible tubing?
Author:  RJM [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:03 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clear PVC fails miserably for Provent install
Bill.Barg wrote:
After 1.6 years the 5/8" ID braided, clear PVC that I used for the Provent install failed miserably. :cry:
The tubing got very brittle and hard.... then the hose clamp connections failed.
Some oil ended up dripping down to the bellhousing.. tipping me off to the problem.

Anyway... the provent is out. Any good suggestions for long term oil resistant flexible tubing?


Low pressure hydralic, Goodyear makes it. It will take the heat of the engine and the oil. R
Author:  mackruss [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:00 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clear PVC fails miserably for Provent install
Bill.Barg wrote:
After 1.6 years the 5/8" ID braided, clear PVC that I used for the Provent install failed miserably. :cry:
The tubing got very brittle and hard.... then the hose clamp connections failed.
Some oil ended up dripping down to the bellhousing.. tipping me off to the problem.

Anyway... the provent is out. Any good suggestions for long term oil resistant flexible tubing?


Another Provent bites the dust :lol:

Is it for sale :?:
Author:  Joe Romas [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Clear PVC fails miserably for Provent install
mackruss wrote:
[ Any good suggestions for long term oil resistant flexible tubing?


After seeing the same failure I recently reinstalled mine using the 11/16 lower heater hose that I had just replaced on my XJ :lol: 11/16 is a perfect fit on the CCV and barb on the turbo hose and has several bends I was able to use. It now comes out of the puck and one 90 positions it in front of the coolant jug. The provent has two 90 plastic fitting jb-welded into the provent that point foward. Another piece of hose from the input of the provent with a 90 puts it in front of the coolant jug where a piece of 3/4 copper pipe is inside both pieces of hose. This makes a wide "U" shapped hose that has a nice angle down towards the puck. Then coming up from the turbo hose the last piece of heater hose has a bend that conviently points it towards the provent where it attatches to a piece of clear vynal tubing that has a long gracefull curve going into the second 90 on the output of the provent to monitor the results :wink:
Author:  warp2diesel [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 7:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Clear PVC fails miserably for Provent install
Bill.Barg wrote:
After 1.6 years the 5/8" ID braided, clear PVC that I used for the Provent install failed miserably. :cry:
The tubing got very brittle and hard.... then the hose clamp connections failed.
Some oil ended up dripping down to the bellhousing.. tipping me off to the problem.

Anyway... the provent is out. Any good suggestions for long term oil resistant flexible tubing?


Hydraulic low pressure hose used for a return line. I ran it on the turbo return line on a Jetta for 250,000 miles, worked well. I will hunt some down before my braided hose gets hard and fails. Some NAPA stores should have it.
Author:  FormerlyBankNote4x4 [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
My bilge hose has held up well for 40k. Flexible, light, simple, made it easier to route all down hill to infront of the airbox. Just leftward of the airbox the provent can be fit in and zip tied.
You can get it at a good hardware store by the foot.
Probably go with hydraulic when/if it fails.
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 9:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
Go to a hydraulic shop where they make hoses for heavy equipment. Get ¾ inch hydraulic SUCTION hose as this has a wire spring molded inside it to keep it from collapsing when it gets hot.
Do this and you will never have to do it again.
Author:  Bill.Barg [ Tue Oct 06, 2009 10:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks.... Hydraulic makes sense
Author:  RJM [ Wed Oct 07, 2009 8:40 am ]
Post subject: 
The only place I had a problem with hose kink was at the 90 off the ccv puck, I used the exterior type spring and it works well. Depending on your plumbing configuration this may not be a problem. I have tried several materials all have failed in short order, hydraulic hose is the only one that stands up and won't weep .
Author:  mackruss [ Wed Oct 07, 2009 10:51 am ]
Post subject: 
Hell I keep on doing this and can't help myself;

Remember to keep me in mind if anybody wants to pack their ProVent in a box and post it to me for a price that's commensurate to their current resale value :) :)
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