What is going on?? 2 EGR Valves in 38k miles?

biggiefl · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:13 pm

I had my first one replaced at 14k, now exactly 14k miles later another is sticking open. They are "checking" to see if it will be warrantied but I doubt it. I do not understand how an EGR is not covered under the 7/70 but that is Chrysler I guess. Just goes to show you how well that new "lifetime" warranty is gonna work. What will they cover, the rod bearings and bolts?

Being I live in FL and do not have emissions or inspections, do I really need it? Is there a way to bypass or just close it up like we used to do on old small blocks with apiece of metal? What happens if I just leave it alone, seems to run fine and get good MPG, it is only throwing the engine light which I can cover with tape.

I was actually looking at a new Jeep but if this is the way they are made these days, I will keep my perfectly good 11mpg 91 Bronco.

biggiefl · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:25 pm

Ok...just got off the phone and because it was replaced once they will do it again for free. Now after 12/12k the new one will be out of warranty again so if it bails, I will have to pay most likely after 12k miles. So please feel free to answr why do I need this and can I bypass it in the future.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:38 pm

For folks with Scangauges...

When I run the ORM (unplug the MAF for the noobs), I see about a 60F intake temperature when the outdoor temperature is 30F. Does this sound about right for a properly-working non-sticking EGR? With the MAF plugged in, I see intake temperatures up closer to 120-150F. I'm hoping a 30F differential is normal for the intake when the EGR is shut, and it's not leaking exhaust into the intake at all.

- Chris

nix · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:41 pm

How would one know if they have a sticking EGR?

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:44 pm

Install an SEGR. EGR can't stick because it's never active. ORM will get it done too, but you get the CEL.

UFO · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:45 pm

nix wrote:

How would one know if they have a sticking EGR?

CEL (check engine light), plus bad performance -- you'll lose boost out the exhaust.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 1:19 pm

Yes the temps (intake) will be lower like that...

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 2:02 pm

EGR temps, being cooled by engine coolant, will be close to engine coolant temps, slightly cooled by intake air temperature - as ambient temps rise toward 100deg this summer, Intake Air Temp, measured at the MAP sensor, will be part way between ambient and engine coolant temps, because the intake manifold is one-piece with the valve-cover\camshaft housing\engine cover, which is bolted across the top of the aluminum head, which, of course, is cooled by engine coolant - IMPO, that should have been labeled MAT, Manifold Air Temperature, with IAT being a sensor over in the airbox, and AAT being a sensor up front of the radiator bulkhead

barnez224 · **Joined:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:28 am **Posts:** 130

biggie,

I feel your pain, thanks to my dealer not cleaning my induction system under warranty, I just went through 2 in 6K, and the 2nd is out of warranty.

Herk · **Posted:** Wed Jan 30, 2008 11:04 pm

Two EGR valves about 14000 miles apart had to be replaced. Then I did the ORM and Im going on 16000 and no problems. Yes the intake temp runs about 60-80 cooler when the EGR is closed by ORM.

naturist · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2008 10:51 am

The EGRs on this engine, especially the 2005, have been widely problematic.

I had the exhaust side EGR replaced 3 times in the first 11,000 miles on mine, and the problem wasn't fixed until the also replaced the intake side EGR, aka "flow control" valve at 11,000 miles. Now at 50,000 and counting, no further problems.

nix · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2008 12:46 pm

chrispitude wrote:

For folks with Scangauges...

When I run the ORM (unplug the MAF for the noobs), I see about a 60F intake temperature when the outdoor temperature is 30F. Does this sound about right for a properly-working non-sticking EGR?

Yesterday my CRD's intake air temp hovered around 80F-90F while cruising along at 70 MPH in 54F weather for about 45 minutes. This is with the ORM. (maf unplugged)

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

At 32,000 miles I just had my CRD's EGR replaced for the first time. Let's hope it is the last.

It was completly covered under warranty.

chrispitude · **Posted:** Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:48 pm

nix wrote:

When I run the ORM (unplug the MAF for the noobs), I see about a 60F intake temperature when the outdoor temperature is 30F. Does this sound about right for a properly-working non-sticking EGR?

Yesterday my CRD's intake air temp hovered around 80F-90F while cruising along at 70 MPH in 54F weather for about 45 minutes. This is with the ORM. (maf unplugged)[/quote]

Thank you nix! It sounds like my EGR is fully closed then. I went for a long time without the ORM, so I wasn't sure if it was gunked up and there were any voids or leaks.

- Chris

MOSFET · **Joined:** Sat Feb 25, 2006 11:40 pm **Posts:** 295

MOSFET wrote:

At 32,000 miles I just had my CRD's EGR replaced for the first time. Let's hope it is the last.

It was completly covered under warranty.

I got my CRD back yesterday, and the check engine light (MIL) came back on again, after they installed a new EGR valve.

The code was P0401, same as before the new EGR valve. I'll have to wait and see what the dealer says on this one.

Any suggestions as to why an EGR would fail in 1 day?

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:03 pm

Could also be the Flow Control Valve is sticking or the MAF is flaky, or they forgot to plug the EGR connector in...............

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2008 12:49 pm

Here is one to ponder. I like to plug my MAF in every couple of months to actuate the EGR so that it wont stick shut. Well when I did it last time the cel did not go out and I can't clear the code. Right before I plugged it in I removed the MAF to inspect it since I had never looked at it before. It had a very small amount of dust on it so I sprayed it with brake cleaner. Now the MAF value on my code scanner remains the same whether it is plugged in or not. I can't remember the exact number but it was something like 0.308. I also noticed that one of the wires on the harness side of the plug had a frayed area and a bare wire showing. I can't imagine what could have caused it except tugging on it for removal. I know that silicone sprays and MAF sensors don't get along, but does brake cleaner also fry them? What should the MAF value be with engine off? How much do MAF sensors cost? Discuss.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2008 1:38 pm

Need the correct code, but if it's 0408, that could indicate an open or loose wire in the connector.

hatchetman · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2008 2:12 pm

A cleaner that is specific to MAF's is made. About $7 a can. That's is what I use to clean my MAP at oil changes.(My MAF is unplugged ORM) :evil:

UFO · **Posted:** Fri Feb 01, 2008 2:19 pm

OK, so lesson learned here is once the EGR is disabled, don't ever re-enable it. :twisted:

What is going on?? 2 EGR Valves in 38k miles?

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