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Suncoast T/C install
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30075		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  stp2136 [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Suncoast T/C install
I am getting ready to do the Suncoast T/C install and have a couple of questions:
1. How do you access the bolts that fasten the T/C to the flex plate?
2. How do you then bar the engine over? Looks like access to the dampener bolt isn't easy.
3. Mine was a March 06 build. How do I tell if have the latest transmission pump?
4. Any other tips to avoid disastrous mistakes?

Thanks.
Author:  Joe Romas [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Suncoast T/C install
stp2136 wrote:
I am getting ready to do the Suncoast T/C install and have a couple of questions:
1. How do you access the bolts that fasten the T/C to the flex plate?
2. How do you then bar the engine over? Looks like access to the dampener bolt isn't easy.
3. Mine was a March 06 build. How do I tell if have the latest transmission pump?
4. Any other tips to avoid disastrous mistakes?

Thanks.


On number 3, Unless it's been replaced you don't have it as they were released after production for the US stopped.
Sorry but I can't help on the rest :cry:
Author:  MightyCRD [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
1. How do you access the bolts that fasten the T/C to the flex plate? -

I believe you access these through the hole where the starter mounts. Only way that I can see to do it, and while I have not had my trans out, I have seen it out on 3 separate occasions for work at the dealership.

Good luck!
Author:  scrambledKJ [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 9:08 pm ]
Post subject:  t/c install
you should be able to get the bolts out from the bottom side of he tranny. One at a time. To turn ther motor over to get to each one, use a small monkey wrench on the crank pulley. With the teeth open 1/4 inch, grab the edge of the pulley from the front and work it around.


Travis
Author:  gmctd [ Sun Mar 02, 2008 11:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Disconnect the battery cable - remove the starter - remove the rubber plug in the adaptor flange - rotate the crank with a suitable socket and breaker bar at the harmonic damper\balancer end- CAUTION: easy to crush a finger in the starter hole or bolt removal hole - at least three bolts anchor the t\c housing from the engine side of the adaptor flange - was easier for me to remove the trans\xfer case as one unit
Author:  stp2136 [ Thu Mar 06, 2008 2:25 pm ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the info. Suncoast T/C is now installed but slippery roads here (Colorado) are delaying thorough testing.

Access to the dampener bolt was difficult because of the fan shroud so I just turned the engine by pushing on the flexplate gear teeth with a large screwdriver. The difficult part was getting the upper bell housing bolts out. Also, I found that the rubber sleeve on the xmission dipstick tube MUST be inserted first, then the dipstick tube. I tried to do it with the xmission in place and ended up having to pull it back off to do things in the right order.

I found that when I seated the Suncoast T/C fully into the pump there was a 1/4 inch or so gap to the flex plate. The bolts pulled it against the flexplate but should I be concerned that there is still enough engagement in the pump? Do the flats on the T/C hub turn the pump? Thanks.
Author:  gmctd [ Thu Mar 06, 2008 4:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
The t\c should never run full depth in the pump - that gap has several functions, incl production tolerances and ease of installation\removal - so yeah, the t\c should have pulled forward out of the trans and toward the flexplate - that places the drive hub flats in the correct position in the pump gear - the 13" Cummins version has 4 flats, or D flat.................
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