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Let's start a "ways to get better MPG thread"
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Author:  Joe Romas [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:51 am ]
Post subject:  Let's start a "ways to get better MPG thread"
I think we all know that inflating our tires to the rated max on the tire sidewall, avoiding jack rabbit starts (my personal favorite :lol: ) cutting our speeds by 10 MPH and coasting to a stop instead of jamming on the brakes will help.
Such things like clean or better air filters, I put in a Amsoil (disclaimer, no affiliation at all with them) and can hear the turbo more so I know it's got less restriction. And on the exhaust side a less restrictive or no muffler :P
For off road purposes only SEGR and EGR mods help too :lol:
Since DC now just C speced 0-30 Mobil 1 and most of us are using Rotella 5-40 what might going to thinner oil gain. Not to mention synthetic oil in both differentials.
Bio will help consumption in the short term but for me personally I would have to drive 50 miles round trip for B20 so that would not cut my total consumption.
Any hard figures on chips, modules or flashes?
Anyone got figures on gains gotten from any of these or other solutions :?:

EDIT: I almost forgot about Darby's air deflectors, no joke. I had a paperback during the oil embargo days and it had figures on how much mud flaps and optional right hand rear view mirrors cut mpg's :wink:
Author:  calcrd [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:26 am ]
Post subject:  fuel savings
A hard pill to swallow for those of us that like to personallize our vehicles but removing any add-ons that contribute to either weight or drag such as roof racks, roof mounted spares and others will help milage.

I know this is a very controvertial topic but the fast rising fuel costs are affecting our pocket books and not only at the pump. I am personally rethinking my driving habits and minimizing time behind the wheel for non-essential trips. I started a trip log last week and made two trips to Pep Boys, 2 to the supermarket, 1 to Home Depot and 1 to the post office. In retrospect I could have reduced those trips by 50% by either better planning or combining destinations.
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 9:36 am ]
Post subject: 
I would stay away from 30wt oils...I did an oil sampling with some and it showed more wear metals than the 40wt...so not worth any small gain IMO.

I have my tires set at 50psi...no problems.

Put the selector in Neutral (keep foot on brake pedal) when stopped and engine is running. Burns 2.5X as much fuel at idle in Drive than in Neutral.

Definitely drive very conservatively especially before your engine is up to temp.

AirTabs...hard to tell on mpg but they do make the CRD more stable in windy conditons at highway speeds.

I think that the 2002 airbox has some benefit when it comes to mpg.
Author:  Joe Romas [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 10:10 am ]
Post subject: 
CalCrd
Right, just taking things out like tow straps and jumper cables can help. Saterday when I had the urge to drive my CRD I washed it instead :wink: Combining trips also has the added advantage of keeping the engine warmed up. Your trips are just like mine but I have Harbor Freight in the the mix :lol: they are all within a mile of each other and the 7 mile trip there warms up the engine.

Darby
Thanks for the info on the lighter oil showing signs of wear :) Since you can feel a difference with the airfoils it would appear that a "few" in the right spot(s) could cut air drag. I wonder if there's some wind tunnel results on a liberty somewhere on the web :?: I would think that DC did some to better there CAFE figures but may have made compromises on that too :oops:

But there is definetly no motorized two wheeler in my future 8) I got my share of them years ago. Sixty years to be exact :lol:
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
As mentioned above ^, added racks and lighting (roof and bumper-mounted) and towing mirrors plus 1/4-1/2" thick front\rear manly-man bumpers increases aerodynamic drag as well as rolling resistance (seriously-increased weight from the bumpers)
- swamp-hog tires hog fuel consumption
- those new tires with the pronounced radial-pattern graphic ridges\bars\lines increase wind resistance, as does large raised lettering
- off-road open-block tread-patterns increase wind restance and rolling resistance - closed-sipe patterns reduce resistance, drag: checkout the tread pattern of any hiway tire, or compare with any 18-wheeler tire for best economy
- oem skid-plates can reduce drag, but 1/4-3/8" thick skid-plates increase vehicle weight, drag
- 20,000watt 50-speaker stereos and other electronic stuff, incl yer combination radar detector\microwave oven\coffee warmer, offers way-increased drag on the alternator = reduced fuel economy
- larger mud flaps (and wider tires) offer increased drag at hiway speeds, as does various antennae, such as 2-way radio, tv, etc
- brake rotor\pad condition effects increased rolling resistance
- who woulda thunk it, but idling is ZERO mpg - idling in any gear range is way worse than that, particularly so with an upgraded torque convertor
- burning the a\c in 60deg clear weather is wasted fuel
- dirty (and wet) air filter is increased fuel\air\ ratio, reduced economy

The oem front bumper improves aerodynamics around the front suspension and those wide oem tires, assuming even more importance on a lifted vehicle, even at only 2" lift.
- pull them swamp-hog tires off and install tires in oem sizing - that'll up mileage by ~10% - same diameter but narrower tread also improves mileage: rolling resistance increases as ground speed increases
- smooth wheel covers, like those old MOON spun-aluminum covers back in the '50's-'60's, reduce wind drag - you can still see them on the salt-flats speed record cars
- hood-mounted bug shields improve aerodynamics
- aerodynamic window-vent shades reduce wind resistance, particularly when driving with windows open, as in cooler weather with a\c off
- removing stored stuff from the rear area(s) reduces weight
- open 2.5" cat-back exhaust system improves engine efficiency
- upgraded torque convertor improves power transfer prior to TCC lock-up, particularly so from standing starts and thru lower gear ranges
- synthetic lubricants reduce operational drag, due to thinner viscosity
- current anti-freezes are lower viscosity than earlier blends, reduces water-pump load and coolant-system drag
- correct tire pressure for vehicle loading decreases rolling resistance - CAUTION: over-inflation results in center-tread bulge, results in narrower effective tread, but center tread-wear is problematical
- washing the mud outta the cracks'n'crevices underneath, incl tire tread, reduces weight and drag
- the viscous heater does improve fuel economy by bringing ECT up to operating temps quicker, but
possily a manual switch, to disable it after engine is ~160degF operating temp, could reduce accessory drive loading = further improved fuel economy
- disabling the constant-blow-thru blower motor function can improve economy - again with the switch
- and, of course, that soul-satisfying, manly man, darn the torpedo's, full speed ahead, nail it at all costs driving technique is money in the pockets of those middle-easterners manning the cash registers at yer fav snack'n'fuel emporium (well, rats!!! - there goes the thrill of driving for me!!)
Author:  UFO [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:51 pm ]
Post subject: 
A moderate amount of biodiesel may or may not improve the mileage, but it will extend the life of the fuel system and reduce your use of petroleum, hopefully dropping the smile level in the middle east. Mine saves me money as well, since it costs me about $1.00 - $1.20 a gallon in materials, but pump B20 prices are not significantly higher, and sometimes cheaper than straight ULSD.
Author:  Threeweight [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:56 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: fuel savings
calcrd wrote:
A hard pill to swallow for those of us that like to personallize our vehicles but removing any add-ons that contribute to either weight or drag such as roof racks, roof mounted spares and others will help milage.


Another thing to consider, if you have a roof rack/basket/etc... that you just can't part with, consider investing in an air dam to reduce wind drag.

Image
Author:  Threeweight [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
DarbyWalters wrote:
I would stay away from 30wt oils...I did an oil sampling with some and it showed more wear metals than the 40wt...so not worth any small gain IMO.



What 30 wt were you using? I would think that a 5w30 that met VW TDI specs should wear fairly well. Valvoline has a "new" 505.1 oil that is supposed to meet VW specs that is available fairly cheaply.
Author:  Joe Romas [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 1:07 pm ]
Post subject: 
Threeweight wrote:
DarbyWalters wrote:
I would stay away from 30wt oils...I did an oil sampling with some and it showed more wear metals than the 40wt...so not worth any small gain IMO.



What 30 wt were you using? I would think that a 5w30 that met VW TDI specs should wear fairly well. Valvoline has a "new" 505.1 oil that is supposed to meet VW specs that is available fairly cheaply.


I have two questions here. Spec oil is 0-30 and Rotella is 5-40 :!: What end of the spectrem would cause the problem, 0 or 30 :?: And is the 505.1 for the newer PD's or the previous rotary pump ones or all of the above :?:
Author:  chrismc [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:04 pm ]
Post subject:  Tires...
I noticed an almost 10mpg drop in fuel economy when I added my Frankenlift II and the 31x10.5 TrXus tires. I'm lucky to get 20 now. :( I may get some all-season's to run around town and keep the MT's for winter and offroad trips. The TrXus tires are so much stiffer that they are inflated for a full contact patch at only 30psi. If I ran them any higher than that, they'd start rounding out and I'd get uneven wear in the center of the tread. Off-road I take them down to about 10psi.
Author:  Threeweight [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:11 pm ]
Post subject: 
Joe Romas wrote:
I have two questions here. Spec oil is 0-30 and Rotella is 5-40 :!: What end of the spectrem would cause the problem, 0 or 30 :?: And is the 505.1 for the newer PD's or the previous rotary pump ones or all of the above :?:


Original spec was synthetic 0w40 (basically, Mobil 1 euro car formula). They expanded that to include synthetic 5w40 (Rotella, Amsoil, Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel, Valvoline Premium Blue, etc...)

505.1 is the minimum spec for newer VW Pump Duese engines (2003 and later, I believe). Most 505.1 (and the new 507 spec oils) are European imports and very, very expensive. The Valvoline is the exception to the rule (though there is some argument in VW circles about whether it is as good as ELF, Motul, etc...)

I've been using Rotella 5w40 in my CRD with no problems. Was thinking of swapping over to Mobil 1 5w40 Turbo Diesel at the next interval (it is now available locally and not much more expensive than Rotella, plus I don't have to deal with the mob scene at Wal Mart). The lighter weight oil/MPG comments got me to thinking about the oil question once again. My wife's 1.9 liter diesel TDI in her Jetta is currently running ELF 5w30.
Author:  Pote [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:45 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tires...
chrismc wrote:
I noticed an almost 10mpg drop in fuel economy when I added my Frankenlift II and the 31x10.5 TrXus tires. I'm lucky to get 20 now. :( I may get some all-season's to run around town and keep the MT's for winter and offroad trips. The TrXus tires are so much stiffer that they are inflated for a full contact patch at only 30psi. If I ran them any higher than that, they'd start rounding out and I'd get uneven wear in the center of the tread. Off-road I take them down to about 10psi.


I'm confused...so before the tires and lift by your math...you were getting 30 mpg? Many don't see 20mpg on their stock KJs...what's your secret????
Author:  honey_don't [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:24 pm ]
Post subject:  A/C mod
compressor runs when in floor and defrost mode, can be made to run on switch only:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... ht=#180099
Author:  Threeweight [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tires...
Pote wrote:
Many don't see 20mpg on their stock KJs...what's your secret????


Diesel. This is the CRD forum, after all.
Author:  DarbyWalters [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
I do have a project in mind for the near future (especially since I am lifted and have slightly taller tires). I want to design an air dam that extends down about 4" lower than the stock "chin" we have now. I want to make it "easy to remove" for offroad. I think it would be a big advantage at highway speeds if it also adds some front tire coverage.
Author:  chrismc [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 4:08 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tires...
Threeweight wrote:
Pote wrote:
Many don't see 20mpg on their stock KJs...what's your secret????


Diesel. This is the CRD forum, after all.


Bingo. I WAS seeing 30 on the highway. Occasionally even a bit more if the wind was cooperating. I guess I should quit complaining. I'm still about 7mpg better than the Rubicon I traded in for the CRD.
Author:  Joe Romas [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Tires...
Threeweight wrote:
Pote wrote:
Many don't see 20mpg on their stock KJs...what's your secret????


Diesel. This is the CRD forum, after all.


Under the right (wrong?) conditions a crd will only get 19-22 mpg. In town and short trips that is what I average. I've only taken one trip without my trailer and it was 380 miles of interstate driving and I got a whopping 23 :cry: But that was after F31 and my tranny was further neutered and before I added a lift pump and it ran like crapola :lol:
Author:  mrkake [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:40 pm ]
Post subject: 
For what it's worth: I am running a Predator stage one (plug and play) performance module. The OR threw it in to sweeten the deal when we were negotiating price so it didn't cost me anything. I took it out when I went in for service and decided to leave it off for 6 tanks of fuel just to try to gauge if it really made any difference. The decrease in performance was noticeable, but not great and mileage seemed to decrease (I wasn't tracking it regularly before this little experiment). I put it back on after 6 tanks and ran another 6 tanks with it on. End result was a net gain in mileage of 2.6 MPG. That's great for me because the unit was free. But these things aren't cheap and with that small of an increase in fuel economy it would take a significant amount of time to recover the original investment let alone actually save money. I have nothing but my own experience to compare to. I don't know if these results are typical or not. I just thought I would throw it out there for informational purposes.
Author:  ATXKJ [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:42 pm ]
Post subject: 
Not that I keep track - but for the 1st 13K miles - stock I averaged

22.86mpg stdev 2.0474 - 31 tanks

I then put a lift 2 1/2" Daystar, MTR's on Rubicon wheels and an ARB

19.17mpg stdev 2.0478 - 126 tanks (not corrected for tire size difference)

- high 26.35 stock - low 13.68 (4lo in Moab)

(AT's and Air Tabs may have improved avg to 19.26 - I need some more Highway data)


as a comparison my FJ80 avg 12.46 std 1.54

(I don't normally quote to 4 decimal places but I was impressed with the std dev - so at least I'm consistent)
Author:  mrkake [ Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:58 pm ]
Post subject: 
Mine are almost all highway miles (unfortunately :( ).

Here is a question that has been bumping around in the back of my head for a few days now. Is there a significant difference in fuel quality from station to station and company to company? The reason why I ask is because I usually fill up at one of the 4 stations that are within a few miles of my house, but the other day I was on the other side of town and had to stop for fuel and I noticed one that was selling for $3.89 a gallon (everything else I saw that day was at or above $4). It was a station owned by a local company that makes racing fuel, and all different ratios of bioD so they have a good reputation. There just isn't one near me and they only offer bioD from their main store that's about a 40 minute drive for me and prices are not attractive enough for the effort. Anyway, I swear that after filling up and driving for a few miles the Libby seemed to have a little more zip. I just figured that I was imagining things at first, but I just kept getting that feeling all day driving around town. I still have part of a tank left and I usually do my calculations manually (the one board readout has been off on several occasions) so I will see if there is a difference in mileage. Not putting too much stock in the idea, but I was just curious to hear member's opinions about fuel quality.
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