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I wouldn't just clear the code and see if it goes away at all. If you are under warranty let them(dealer) fix the problem.

By the way before anybody ever buys anything from harbor freight make sure you google for a coupon, there are always 10% coupons out there to use, also if you have a store in town 9 I do) make sure you get the online price which is always less than in store, print it off and present with coupon so you get the lowest price and the 10% (at least) off.

cerich wrote:

Dealer fix it, you must be a man of FAITH.

I save my FAITH for the Ultimate Gear Head Engineer who composed all of the Laws of Physics.

Statistically good dealers who do more than sell cars is around 20%, I guess that is better odds than slot machines.

Most Techs are good parts swappers and pass of the diagnosis burden since it does not pay well and cuts their income. If you have a real problem and not one caused by an air bubble in the fuel system, it will not go away if you clear the code, and it will come back. Supplying the dealer with the codes and accurate symptoms that the service writer can figure out (like a leak on the filter head) cuts down on how long you need to give up your wheels and reduces come backs. PLAYING POKER and expecting the DEALER to FIX IT is an unwise move and results in an unhappy owner. I ran a shop for 14 1/2 years and have seen this crap too many times, don't miss it a bit.

When I bring my CRD in or when I send another vehicle to a dealer for warranty, they love it, they don't need to waste time on diagnosis since they know what to do, fix, paper work, bill the Big Company.

Steve

Hi this is my first time saying anything; I just drove my 05 CRD from Tallahassee Fl to Milwaukee WI and back about four weeks ago. It pulled a 8 FT V nose trailer loaded with dive gear for the Ghost Ship Festival (2000lb) it pulled it like a champ. I was not able to drive it back because of work schedule. So it spent a week in really cold weather.
I had unplugged the fuel heater but for the trip I plugged it back in for the minus degree temperatures we were going to see. So when I get it back I drive it for 2 or 3 days then on the way to work it just shuts off no warning.
This happens 2 more times then the last time it runs like it is on 2 pistons. It gets me to work and I let it sit. Go out at lunch time and start it up and it sound normal. So I start to drive it and it has no power no get up, but it does get me to the dealer. They put a reader on it right away and it comes up with 0093 major fuel leak, but the guy said he has to look up the code. When he comes back they say they don’t know what the fault code is and they have to call the factory. So I get a ride and leave it. I call back the next day at noon and they still have not called the factory. So the service manager get on them they call and I get a phone call and they ask me if I put BIO in it. I say yes for the station, they say you can not use BIO in it, I say bull you sold it to me with it in the tank. They say they will call back. They get back to me and say the % of BIO is to rich and is the problem. They give two options add my diesel and have it run like crap until the bad stuff passes or they can drop the tank and clear every thing out . I asked them to drain the filter see if it has any water in it. They come back and tell me the fuel is crap and they have to drop the tank and clean the lines and filter. When they do they tell me that the tank was nasty water, algae, and crud in it. The fuel pump was dirty ( did they say fuel pump in the tank. Is that true)
So the clean it out test drive it and still broken. Now they because of the bad fuel and BIO is to rich the injector pump has been taken out. Now two weeks later the pump is still on back order. Can bad fuel and “more that 10% BIO take out an injector pump? What is the filter doing? I know it can not filet out BIO but my neighbor is getting the same fuel in this Jetta it had some water in the filter we drained it re-primed it and off he went.
What gives??????

PS This form has been great to see what other CRD are going through.
Thanks for all the help.

My advice to anyone who uses biodiesel: absolutely do not admit to using more than 5%. Warranty issues are the tip of the iceberg: the tech will try his best to blame biodiesel for any problem you have, however remote. Bad radio? It musta been the biodiesel.

Author:	bhysjulien [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:00 pm ]
Post subject:	Limp Mode?
Tonight on the way home my wife had the Liberty start running badly. This is what she said happened. She was accelerating onto the 101 when the Liberty made a noise (her description, not mine), blew a large belch of smoke out the back, and started running rough. It would not go over around 50-60, didn't have any power, and sounded like it had thrown a rod (if it were a gasser). She got it home and we shut it off and restarted it, it's now running fine. I immediately thought limp mode. Does this sound correct? I have a check engine light and will get that checked tomorrow. I checked the engine bay and all the hoses are connected and not leaking oil. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:14 pm ]
Post subject:	Scan first....
...Train the dealer second. Even Harbor Freight has a scanner for $39 that works. 1) Pull the code, record it and look it up before you surrender your CRD to the dealer. 2) Also pump the hand primer and check for air in the fuel system and bleed it out. When you get rid of the air pull the heater plug on the filter head heater puck and see if the plug is burned. If it is burned pump the hand primer until it pumps hard and hold some steady pressure on it and check for fuel on the heater plug. If it is wet and you have warranty, get the dealer to replace it. 3) Clear the codes and see if the CEL goes out. If it does go out, the air in the fuel may be the only problem. Air drives the system nuts and can generate other codes. Steve

Author:	bhysjulien [ Wed Mar 26, 2008 11:47 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks for the response. I have a code reader on the way, it's just not here yet. I'll probably go to AutoZone and have them read the code. Thanks for the other info. I'm going to check it after work.

Author:	cerich [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:04 am ]
Post subject:
I wouldn't just clear the code and see if it goes away at all. If you are under warranty let them(dealer) fix the problem. By the way before anybody ever buys anything from harbor freight make sure you google for a coupon, there are always 10% coupons out there to use, also if you have a store in town 9 I do) make sure you get the online price which is always less than in store, print it off and present with coupon so you get the lowest price and the 10% (at least) off.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:27 am ]
Post subject:	Good point on Harbor Freight, but Dealer fix it?
cerich wrote: I wouldn't just clear the code and see if it goes away at all. If you are under warranty let them(dealer) fix the problem. By the way before anybody ever buys anything from harbor freight make sure you google for a coupon, there are always 10% coupons out there to use, also if you have a store in town 9 I do) make sure you get the online price which is always less than in store, print it off and present with coupon so you get the lowest price and the 10% (at least) off. Dealer fix it, you must be a man of FAITH. I save my FAITH for the Ultimate Gear Head Engineer who composed all of the Laws of Physics. Statistically good dealers who do more than sell cars is around 20%, I guess that is better odds than slot machines. Most Techs are good parts swappers and pass of the diagnosis burden since it does not pay well and cuts their income. If you have a real problem and not one caused by an air bubble in the fuel system, it will not go away if you clear the code, and it will come back. Supplying the dealer with the codes and accurate symptoms that the service writer can figure out (like a leak on the filter head) cuts down on how long you need to give up your wheels and reduces come backs. PLAYING POKER and expecting the DEALER to FIX IT is an unwise move and results in an unhappy owner. I ran a shop for 14 1/2 years and have seen this crap too many times, don't miss it a bit. When I bring my CRD in or when I send another vehicle to a dealer for warranty, they love it, they don't need to waste time on diagnosis since they know what to do, fix, paper work, bill the Big Company. Steve

LOST JEEPS http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/

Limp Mode? http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=30942	Page 1 of 1

Author:	cerich [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:01 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Good point on Harbor Freight, but Dealer fix it?
warp2diesel wrote: cerich wrote: I wouldn't just clear the code and see if it goes away at all. If you are under warranty let them(dealer) fix the problem. By the way before anybody ever buys anything from harbor freight make sure you google for a coupon, there are always 10% coupons out there to use, also if you have a store in town 9 I do) make sure you get the online price which is always less than in store, print it off and present with coupon so you get the lowest price and the 10% (at least) off. Dealer fix it, you must be a man of FAITH. I save my FAITH for the Ultimate Gear Head Engineer who composed all of the Laws of Physics. Statistically good dealers who do more than sell cars is around 20%, I guess that is better odds than slot machines. Most Techs are good parts swappers and pass of the diagnosis burden since it does not pay well and cuts their income. If you have a real problem and not one caused by an air bubble in the fuel system, it will not go away if you clear the code, and it will come back. Supplying the dealer with the codes and accurate symptoms that the service writer can figure out (like a leak on the filter head) cuts down on how long you need to give up your wheels and reduces come backs. PLAYING POKER and expecting the DEALER to FIX IT is an unwise move and results in an unhappy owner. I ran a shop for 14 1/2 years and have seen this crap too many times, don't miss it a bit. When I bring my CRD in or when I send another vehicle to a dealer for warranty, they love it, they don't need to waste time on diagnosis since they know what to do, fix, paper work, bill the Big Company. Steve I agree with you Steve, it is just that many/most service writers will make your life difficult if you tell them you have a problem and read and cleared the code. they act like you didn't read the code but caused it. I read the codes and only mention it when they get lost in trying to figure out the problem. Hell, I've had my mechanic at the dealership reading this forum so i could get the front pump done with the TC recall....it worked.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 12:22 pm ]
Post subject:	Disabled mechanics make better....
....service writers. My dealership has a service writer who is good to work with, the other wipes out the gopher hole next to the porta -potty and tosses the TP into the stool. Steve

Author:	bhysjulien [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 5:12 pm ]
Post subject:
Went to AutoZone and had the codes read...no codes. The check engine light wasn't on and I'm not sure if the kid running the code reader knew how to check what was stored in memory so I will wait for the Scangauge to get here and check them myself. The CRD seems to be running fine. The only thing I've noticed is a slight surging when the engine is cold that wasn't there before. I tried to check for air in the system but couldn't find the check valve on the filter. I have a plug in the bottom for the water sensor but couldn't find the other. My dealer is pretty good. They deal with a lot of Cummins diesels so at least they have a clue. They also seem to be fairly up to date on CRD issues.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:05 pm ]
Post subject:	Location of bleeder
Look straight at the filter head and on the left side is a bleeder just like the one on a brake caliper. Press the hand primer several times until it gets firm, then with a 7/16" or 11mm box end wrench, open the bleeder and there will be air gushing out. With out letting up on the primer, tighten up the bleeder and repeat the process until you don't get massive spirits of air. Then pull the heater plug on the right side and look under the plug for wet fuel. If you see fuel under the plug, give your self a pat on the back and let your dealer know that you found a leak. if it is wet under the plug, this is where the air got sucked in to your system. Remember if it is a leaker, your dealer now is getting a favor from you to make some easy money off Chrysler LLC. Steve

Author:	bhysjulien [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:21 pm ]
Post subject:
My mistake, I thought the bleeder was on the bottom of the filter.

Author:	bluefish [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:39 pm ]
Post subject:
Hi this is my first time saying anything; I just drove my 05 CRD from Tallahassee Fl to Milwaukee WI and back about four weeks ago. It pulled a 8 FT V nose trailer loaded with dive gear for the Ghost Ship Festival (2000lb) it pulled it like a champ. I was not able to drive it back because of work schedule. So it spent a week in really cold weather. I had unplugged the fuel heater but for the trip I plugged it back in for the minus degree temperatures we were going to see. So when I get it back I drive it for 2 or 3 days then on the way to work it just shuts off no warning. This happens 2 more times then the last time it runs like it is on 2 pistons. It gets me to work and I let it sit. Go out at lunch time and start it up and it sound normal. So I start to drive it and it has no power no get up, but it does get me to the dealer. They put a reader on it right away and it comes up with 0093 major fuel leak, but the guy said he has to look up the code. When he comes back they say they don’t know what the fault code is and they have to call the factory. So I get a ride and leave it. I call back the next day at noon and they still have not called the factory. So the service manager get on them they call and I get a phone call and they ask me if I put BIO in it. I say yes for the station, they say you can not use BIO in it, I say bull you sold it to me with it in the tank. They say they will call back. They get back to me and say the % of BIO is to rich and is the problem. They give two options add my diesel and have it run like crap until the bad stuff passes or they can drop the tank and clear every thing out . I asked them to drain the filter see if it has any water in it. They come back and tell me the fuel is crap and they have to drop the tank and clean the lines and filter. When they do they tell me that the tank was nasty water, algae, and crud in it. The fuel pump was dirty ( did they say fuel pump in the tank. Is that true) So the clean it out test drive it and still broken. Now they because of the bad fuel and BIO is to rich the injector pump has been taken out. Now two weeks later the pump is still on back order. Can bad fuel and “more that 10% BIO take out an injector pump? What is the filter doing? I know it can not filet out BIO but my neighbor is getting the same fuel in this Jetta it had some water in the filter we drained it re-primed it and off he went. What gives?????? PS This form has been great to see what other CRD are going through. Thanks for all the help.

Author:	Johnboy [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 8:58 pm ]
Post subject:
I went through the bad fuel thing... but your sitution reminds me of this... 2 trips to the dealer ago, I had similiar happenings. They replaced a U joint and the crank speed sensor...all was good for a couple of weeks. Next I had similiar symptoms but lightly different presentation (Ill spare the details) this time at 36600 miles I stood at the service desk for 3.5 hours while this evolved. Otherwise Id have taken a big one, I am sure. So it was the same codes as before (engine speed yada yada, cant remember) and they admitted they didnt really know what was going on last time either. Tech calls the engineers at Chrysler. I stand at desk outside the whole time. He was on hold for at least 2 hours.. in the mean time I asked if that counted as labor charges, it does....anyhow, I caught the bugger before he made it to the service manager and asked what he learned. They told him to replace the wire between the ECU and the TCU. If that didnt fix it then replace the TCU. I very calmly told them (in discussion form) that I am not paying the $100 diagnostic fee for that information, nor am I paying labor associated, nor am I paying for a new TCM since Chrysler has reflashed the thing with recalls etc....They said yes I am.. I said hang on I am going to call some one you dont want to talk to as I walk out the door dialing on the cell phone...about 30 sec later the service manager comes running out "John! We are going to put a new TCM in under warranty!" and we all lived happily ever after (fer a week so far) ... Maybe you need a TCM? Dont let them have their way with you either. Dont go to jail for pummeling a service manager.

Author:	Pablo [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:16 pm ]
Post subject:
bluefish wrote: Hi this is my first time saying anything; I just drove my 05 CRD from Tallahassee Fl to Milwaukee WI and back about four weeks ago. It pulled a 8 FT V nose trailer loaded with dive gear for the Ghost Ship Festival (2000lb) it pulled it like a champ. I was not able to drive it back because of work schedule. So it spent a week in really cold weather. I had unplugged the fuel heater but for the trip I plugged it back in for the minus degree temperatures we were going to see. So when I get it back I drive it for 2 or 3 days then on the way to work it just shuts off no warning. This happens 2 more times then the last time it runs like it is on 2 pistons. It gets me to work and I let it sit. Go out at lunch time and start it up and it sound normal. So I start to drive it and it has no power no get up, but it does get me to the dealer. They put a reader on it right away and it comes up with 0093 major fuel leak, but the guy said he has to look up the code. When he comes back they say they don’t know what the fault code is and they have to call the factory. So I get a ride and leave it. I call back the next day at noon and they still have not called the factory. So the service manager get on them they call and I get a phone call and they ask me if I put BIO in it. I say yes for the station, they say you can not use BIO in it, I say bull you sold it to me with it in the tank. They say they will call back. They get back to me and say the % of BIO is to rich and is the problem. They give two options add my diesel and have it run like crap until the bad stuff passes or they can drop the tank and clear every thing out . I asked them to drain the filter see if it has any water in it. They come back and tell me the fuel is crap and they have to drop the tank and clean the lines and filter. When they do they tell me that the tank was nasty water, algae, and crud in it. The fuel pump was dirty ( did they say fuel pump in the tank. Is that true) So the clean it out test drive it and still broken. Now they because of the bad fuel and BIO is to rich the injector pump has been taken out. Now two weeks later the pump is still on back order. Can bad fuel and “more that 10% BIO take out an injector pump? What is the filter doing? I know it can not filet out BIO but my neighbor is getting the same fuel in this Jetta it had some water in the filter we drained it re-primed it and off he went. What gives?????? PS This form has been great to see what other CRD are going through. Thanks for all the help. I would start a new thread for this if you want answers. I would say algae contamination is very bad. If that happened, it could have caused everything they said. Cheap bio (made in a house or something) with high water content will definately grow more algae critters. So will filling a tank from an infected source.

Author:	CATCRD [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:29 pm ]
Post subject:
bluefish wrote: Hi this is my first time saying anything; I just drove my 05 CRD from Tallahassee Fl to Milwaukee WI and back about four weeks ago. It pulled a 8 FT V nose trailer loaded with dive gear for the Ghost Ship Festival (2000lb) it pulled it like a champ. I was not able to drive it back because of work schedule. So it spent a week in really cold weather. I had unplugged the fuel heater but for the trip I plugged it back in for the minus degree temperatures we were going to see. So when I get it back I drive it for 2 or 3 days then on the way to work it just shuts off no warning. This happens 2 more times then the last time it runs like it is on 2 pistons. It gets me to work and I let it sit. Go out at lunch time and start it up and it sound normal. So I start to drive it and it has no power no get up, but it does get me to the dealer. They put a reader on it right away and it comes up with 0093 major fuel leak, but the guy said he has to look up the code. When he comes back they say they don’t know what the fault code is and they have to call the factory. So I get a ride and leave it. I call back the next day at noon and they still have not called the factory. So the service manager get on them they call and I get a phone call and they ask me if I put BIO in it. I say yes for the station, they say you can not use BIO in it, I say bull you sold it to me with it in the tank. They say they will call back. They get back to me and say the % of BIO is to rich and is the problem. They give two options add my diesel and have it run like crap until the bad stuff passes or they can drop the tank and clear every thing out . I asked them to drain the filter see if it has any water in it. They come back and tell me the fuel is crap and they have to drop the tank and clean the lines and filter. When they do they tell me that the tank was nasty water, algae, and crud in it. The fuel pump was dirty ( did they say fuel pump in the tank. Is that true) So the clean it out test drive it and still broken. Now they because of the bad fuel and BIO is to rich the injector pump has been taken out. Now two weeks later the pump is still on back order. Can bad fuel and “more that 10% BIO take out an injector pump? What is the filter doing? I know it can not filet out BIO but my neighbor is getting the same fuel in this Jetta it had some water in the filter we drained it re-primed it and off he went. What gives?????? PS This form has been great to see what other CRD are going through. Thanks for all the help. If it just shut off suddenly and quietly while driving, this is a clogged fuel filter. Ask me how I know. Mine would not even restart, and it was 5 miles down the road after filling up with B20. Turns out it was a bad batch for whatever reason. I should've known by how slowly it was coming out of the pump. Mine was towed to the dealer, tank dropped and cleaned, filter changed and was back up and running with no further problems for 2 yrs now. Luckily the fuel station paid for almost $800 in repairs. I would go after them. Save a sample of that fuel if you still can. How long after you filled with the bio did it die? I can't see enough crap getting past your filter to kill your injection pump in only a short drive. Maybe once you get all the air out of the system and get everything primed it will be back to normal. These guys at the dealer sound like they don't know how to do it. How does it act now? Does it start? Run rough?

Author:	gmctd [ Fri Mar 28, 2008 12:27 am ]
Post subject:
FYI: the air bleed is there on the side of the fuel manager head, opposite the Primer Pump - the WIF water bleed is at the bottom of the filter element. The fuel heater connector in the black plastic heater puck, closest to the brake master cylinder, deteriorates and leaks fuel - this allows fuel in the filter to drain back to the tank when the engine is off, causing air bubbles\pockets in the filter manager head, resulting in engine misfire, skipping, hesitation, low power\no power, stall, engine dead in severe cases. Positive test for this failure is to pump the prime button till it becomes difficult to push, at which time the filter\head will be under pressure and any leaky heater connector should become evident - dealer warranty service required in some cases, other options available. The test will also reveal any leak from the fuel manager head to the CP3 injection pump - it does not test for leaks from the fuel tank to the fuel manager, which testing will require pressurizing the fuel tank a.) Air-bubble related stall, fuel starvation, has no black smoke, just runs ruff, stalls, misfires, full WOT usually won't run (insufficient fuel) - replace fuel manager head, hose\clamps on plastic tubing at tank, etc b.) Bad-fuel related stall is usually accompanied by black smoke, otherwise similar symptoms as fuel starvation stall, may require full WOT to keep running, lots of black smoke - drop\drain tank, flush system, new filters c.) Contaminated fuel (gasoline, water, etc) usually accompanied by black smoke, ruff running, 'backfire' symptom, may require full WOT to keep running - drop\drain et al FYI: no matter what you've heard, salt and sugar will not dissolve in Diesel fuel or gasoline - 'nuther old wives' tale - your filter should trap crystals B4 it gets to the injection pump - will dissolve in water, but WIF is another problem, anyway d.) Algae infestation clogs fuel filter, fuel starvation symptoms - if fuel is also nasty\watery\rusty (which is like Viagra to them randy little algaes), usually accompanied by black smoke and ruff running until filter clogs - drop\drain tank et al e.) Damp, wet, soaked air filter is usually accompanied by black haze to black smoke, with ruff running, low power, may require full WOT to keep running, lots of black smoke - new filter heals it None of the above are limp mode, tho they can result in CEL\limp if not addressed early on - limp mode is ECM-reduced power, no Boost, NO black smoke, TCM will not shift transmission into higher ranges, certainly no overdrive, CEL will be on, several DTC's will be stored for later diagnostics - no misfire, no ruff running, full WOT gets no response, just smooth low-power to get you home - if failure heals itself, and some can self-heal, engine will recover after IGN switch is cycled OFF, then ON-START-RUN None of the listed items will 'permanently' recover when IGN power is cycled Them Diesel-swilling algae proliferate only at the water\fuel interface - clean dry fuel = no proliferation yrmv

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Author:	warp2diesel [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:30 pm ]
Post subject:	To check the fuel...
... connect a hose to the bleeder and put it into a jar, pump the primer until it is stiff and hold it down, with the other hand use a 7/16" or 11mm box end and open it up and allow the fuel to go into the jar. Pump some more with the hose end under the fuel or close the bleeder and repeat the steps above. If you have bad fuel it will look bad. If it is bad get a good Lawyer and show your receipts.

Author:	warp2diesel [ Thu Mar 27, 2008 11:37 pm ]
Post subject:	Take a sniff.....
.. and smell for Gasoline in the fuel, it is lighter and comes to the top Contamination does happen and not always from water, bacteria, and algae When I had my shop, I drained more gasoline out of diesel tanks than any thing else. Steve

Author:	bluefish [ Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:36 pm ]
Post subject:
Thanks for all the replys; It is in, shop they are waiting for a new injector pump (there nickle) so right now I am waiting. I did try to tell them to look at the top of the fuel filter from the power plug but they are sure it is the pump, they already drop the tank and clear the line with no luck. When I got it back from the trip, I was able to drive about 150 miles before all of the fun started. the pump is on back order so I have to wait for the moment. I have the extened warrenty to 75K so for that reason I let them do most of the work so they don't have any reason not to pay up. When the warrenty is up however then I will get to know what I really don't want to know. The neighbor got some fuel about the same time for his Jetta it had some water in the filter we drained it and he is still driving. Again thanks to every one in all of the treads for all of the info

Author:	naturist [ Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:14 pm ]
Post subject:
I've been down this road, both the limp mode and the biodiesel road. I can tell you for sure that Chrysler will void your engine warranty at the drop of a hat if you use any biodiesel above 5%. I can also tell you that a clogging fuel filter causes the "massive fuel leak" code, and puts you into major limp mode that won't go away until you shut off the engine and restart. I was almost squashed like a bug by an 18 wheeler when that happened to me. (It gets exciting bouncing down the road side at 30 mph, switching the engine off and restarting to prevent getting run over.) Replacing the fuel filter solved the problem completely. I've had 2 fuel filters clog on me, one from bad fuel, one just finally picked up all it could take. Both created the same symptoms, which, however, did not include any smoke. My advice to anyone who uses biodiesel: absolutely do not admit to using more than 5%. Warranty issues are the tip of the iceberg: the tech will try his best to blame biodiesel for any problem you have, however remote. Bad radio? It musta been the biodiesel. I had EGR problems blamed on biodiesel. I had a clogged fuel filter diagnosed as massive fuel leak. And I am convinced that the 25,000 miles the fuel filter is supposed to last is too optomistic. I think 15,000 is more like the limit. Sucks, but there it is.

Author:	onthehunt [ Mon Mar 31, 2008 1:15 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: My advice to anyone who uses biodiesel: absolutely do not admit to using more than 5%. Warranty issues are the tip of the iceberg: the tech will try his best to blame biodiesel for any problem you have, however remote. Bad radio? It musta been the biodiesel. My advice is not to use more than 5% bio- then you won't have to lie. Very naive to think they won't test it either.