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| CRD Suspension: Springs, Struts, Shocks and Bump Stop http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=31956 |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Sun Apr 27, 2008 8:02 am ] |
| Post subject: | CRD Suspension: Springs, Struts, Shocks and Bump Stop |
Just ordered (Edit: Should have been OME 790's not OME 927) and 948 springs for the CRD from Torasport. What shocks would you recommend? Have used the search and am a little bewildered by all the claims, choices and prices. That is expected, but the old shocks have got to go. I know longer shocks are required for the rear. Shocks are not all; bumpstops and a clevis or two? |
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| Author: | ATXKJ [ Sun Apr 27, 2008 6:39 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I hate to say it but - your need the OME 790 springs for the front - the 927's are about 400lbs/in - stock is 410 lbs/inch - so you've actually gone lighter - the 927's are Okay for the gassers and the European 2.5's - but on the 2.8 they start sagging so OME had to go heavier - the 790's are 500lb/in - I think All'J's is the only vendor that regularly carries the 790's - about $155 for the pair. http://boulderbars.com/kjproducts.htm And I recommend the OME NS131 struts on the front - rears can be OME or Ranchos, both work well but the extra weight on the front needs the OME strut. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Sun Apr 27, 2008 9:13 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks |
Boy I screwed up. Tried to go 1 step at a time and did not get it right. Appreciate your input a lot |
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| Author: | BlackLibertyCRD [ Sun Apr 27, 2008 10:36 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
I think this is the most cost effective way, not including upper A arms. Or just springs as stated at the bottom with OME long travel shocks. http://boulderbars.com/frankenlift_crd.htm ~2" to ~2-1/4" All OME Lift Kit: $804.73 This kit is un-assembled & includes: OME NS131 struts: $151.55 each OME948 H/D Rear Springs: $151.55 pr OME790 H/D CRD-Rated frnt spings: $155 pr OME132L Long Travel Shocks: $84.99 each Rear Bump Stops: $25 pr For the above lift, you would reuse your stock top plates, isolators and hardware. This kit comes un-assembled. Or....just switch out your stock springs to OME790 in the front and OME948 in the rear. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Sun Apr 27, 2008 11:25 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Upper A Arms |
Thanks, Have been reading about the Upper A Arms. What do they all about? Just looking for a little more spring and dampening, nothing major, maybe an inch or 2 of lift. Got confused reading about the gasser (Patooie!) Liberty lifts. The stock shocks are not so good and the springs are bottoming out a little too often. What is the clevis? |
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| Author: | BlackLibertyCRD [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 8:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The old upper A arms could get a damaged boot from hitting and wear out the ball joint as a result. The new A arms adds clearance and replaceable, greaseable ball joint. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Mon Apr 28, 2008 2:20 pm ] |
| Post subject: | A Rose is a Rose, but Good |
Rose at Torasport helped me out. She looked up what was recommended and asked if I was sure I knew what I wanted. Knowing how good you guys here are I said mmmmmmm. So, she gave me the ARB tech support number 425-264-1391 and told me she would wait to ship until I was sure. Actually I forgot the numbers, this site was not up on my computer and in a senior moment the confusion reigned. Well, Mark @ ARB Tech Service looked it up and ATXKJ and Blacklibertycrd were correctomundo. A CRD heavy is: OME 790 front and OME 948 rear for springs. Shocks, struts and bumpstops, oh my. Why couldn't I just make it easy and buy a kit? Money for one and it would be nice to get it right, step by step, sometime. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 4:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | OME Strut in Front, Rancho in the Rear? |
The springs are in the mail. Currently thinking that OME NS131's for the front and Rancho (a little cheaper) in the rear. Bilstein 5150's and others could be considered if someone has a suggestion. I like the boat trailer roller as a bump stop. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Thu May 08, 2008 10:10 am ] |
| Post subject: | Parts In and Ordered More Parts |
Springs are here Front 2 OME 790's $158.90, rear 2 OME 948's for $158.90 = $317.80 shipped Torasport.com In the mail Front struts/shocks 2 OME NS 131 = $284.98 shipped Torasport.com Rear shocks 2 Rancho RSX 17004 = $104.80 shipped Amazon.com $707.68 so far to try to get the suspension right. What about the bump stop? Good question, with costs considered it might be cheaper to buy a rubber mallet, cut it in half and screw it in or.... Should I spend the money to get a Terra Flex? Ideas?? |
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| Author: | ATXKJ [ Thu May 08, 2008 10:25 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
The rubber mallet idea (or hocky puck) is for the rear - (it also keeps the spring from falling out under extreme flex ) The Terra flex is for the front - the intent is to prevent the springs from going all the way to coil bind - i.e. the coils touch each other - damages the spring. both are functions of the terrain you drive over - if you're on mild trails where the lift is mainly for ground clearance - you don't have to have them - but if you're looking at Moab - you need both. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Thu May 08, 2008 10:42 am ] |
| Post subject: | Thanks ATXKJ |
ATXKJ wrote: The rubber mallet idea (or hocky puck) is for the rear - (it also keeps the spring from falling out under extreme flex )
The Terra flex is for the front - the intent is to prevent the springs from going all the way to coil bind - i.e. the coils touch each other - damages the spring. both are functions of the terrain you drive over - if you're on mild trails where the lift is mainly for ground clearance - you don't have to have them - but if you're looking at Moab - you need both. In buying this rig I expected to pay to upgrade things, just not the suspension. My road and driveway are at times unbelievable, the suspension bottoms, up to the frame mud and the ice can be brutal. These changes though will not help with the ice. Maybe I should get both the Tera flex and hocky puck. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Thu May 15, 2008 8:26 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Have the Pieces, Rear is easy, Front is Hard |
The confidence of no experience. I think we can do the rear springs, shocks and bumpstop with a steep grade, wrenches and elbow grease. We do not have a spring compressor, maybe can rent one. The front with the compressed spring will be handled professionally. Any expert advise? |
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| Author: | Pablo [ Fri May 16, 2008 2:29 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Have the Pieces, Rear is easy, Front is Hard |
fastRob wrote: The confidence of no experience.
I think we can do the rear springs, shocks and bumpstop with a steep grade, wrenches and elbow grease. We do not have a spring compressor, maybe can rent one. The front with the compressed spring will be handled professionally. Any expert advise? You don't need the compressor for the back. So don't bother. You will have to do the front assembly professional, as most car compressors can't handle the 500 pound spring. For the back, just jack the vehicle up and put it on tall jack stands. Take off the rear sway bar (very important). After it is on stands with the wheels off, remove the shocks and use the jack to flex the axle side to side. The rear springs will just pop right in there. Tighten down the bump stop, and do the other side. Then put the new shocks on. Be careful on the front drivers side putting the "strut" assembly back in. You don't want to rip the CV boot. Been there, done that (but with a much taller lift, so you should be fine). It will ride much much better and bottoming out will be greatly reduced if not eliminated. |
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| Author: | jinstall [ Fri May 16, 2008 11:16 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
I know Koni make OEM adjustable dampeners for the KJ. Not sure if you can use them though. |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Fri May 16, 2008 5:16 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Done, Looks Great, Time To Drive |
We started about 9 this morning took off the front struts and I took them to a spring shop, H. J. Smith's of Waterville, ME. They changed the mounting brackets over for $20.00. He said they were truck springs, was not sure he could do it, they were so stiff, but John did a great job. It took him about 15 minutes to put the OME springs and shocks on the Jeep mounting brackets. And yes the hardest part was the removal of the battery and air box to get at the bolts. It took about 3 hours to get back to work. So we got it all done in about 5 total hours of work. My almost 16 year old son Rasmus was a great help. Could not have done it without him. The left side brake hose is a little tight but not too bad. Ranchos in the back go well with the OME springs, picked up 2 hockey pucks for $2.00 for use with construction adhesive to secure them. Thanks for the advise guys, great help. Would not have purchased this Jeep without all your help, thanks. Total cost was less than $800 including gas for running around. We have hand tools so no costs for tools. Suncoast T/C and shift kit due next week. "She Who Must Be Obeyed," my better half is taking serious notice of this project, glad it is almost done. |
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| Author: | tonycrd [ Wed May 21, 2008 3:37 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
ATXKJ wrote: I hate to say it but - your need the OME 790 springs for the front - the 927's are about 400lbs/in - stock is 410 lbs/inch - so you've actually gone lighter - the 927's are Okay for the gassers and the European 2.5's - but on the 2.8 they start sagging so OME had to go heavier - the 790's are 500lb/in - I think All'J's is the only vendor that regularly carries the 790's - about $155 for the pair.
So now I'm confused. the 927's are weaker then the stock ones but still ok for my 2.5? ?? |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Thu May 22, 2008 9:10 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
tonycrd wrote: ATXKJ wrote: I hate to say it but - your need the OME 790 springs for the front - the 927's are about 400lbs/in - stock is 410 lbs/inch - so you've actually gone lighter - the 927's are Okay for the gassers and the European 2.5's - but on the 2.8 they start sagging so OME had to go heavier - the 790's are 500lb/in - I think All'J's is the only vendor that regularly carries the 790's - about $155 for the pair. So now I'm confused. the 927's are weaker then the stock ones but still ok for my 2.5? ?? The stock Jeep stuff is not the highest quality in my opinion. My Liberty with 25,000 miles had springs that went limp and needed replacement. I hope the OME's last a little longer. |
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| Author: | ATXKJ [ Thu May 22, 2008 9:38 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
tonycrd wrote: So now I'm confused. the 927's are weaker then the stock ones but still ok for my 2.5? ??
weaker than the stock springs for the 2.8 - I have no idea what was stock on the 2.5 the 927's were OME's recommendation for the 2.8 and yet when folks installed them - they had virtually no lift - OME was surprised - because they had worked on the 2.5's in Europe and Australia, it took them some time to come out with the 790's. |
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| Author: | tonycrd [ Fri May 23, 2008 10:52 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks for the info on the OME springs, that's why my friends '05 2.8crd is so un-level with the 927's fitted.... jinstall wrote: I know Koni make OEM adjustable dampeners for the KJ. Not sure if you can use them though.
I think you can. But nobody is running them and they are expensive! $155 a piece.. Tire rack hase them too. KONI Front 8240-1201SPX Rear 8240-1202SPX |
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| Author: | fastRob [ Fri May 23, 2008 6:04 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Progress Report |
We installed the hockey pucks with "Liquid Nails," did some bumping around and they are still there. Have driven it about a week now, much higher, almost too high for me, I hope it settles a bit. Had a flat in the driveway, tough driveway, so the money to replace the T/C went into tires...... All I really know is the bottoming out is not happening and it sits higher. Worth the money? Give me a few months to decide. |
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