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| Seaping Rear Main Seal Option/Test http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=32024 |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 5:53 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Seaping Rear Main Seal Option/Test |
I almost forgot about an alternative option that has worked by other folks who had seal leaks. My 2006 CRD with 40k miles has a small RMS leak and I was going to drop the tranny to replace it. I've now decided to give Auto-RX a shot. I first heard about this product on BITOG and have used it in the past to restore sticky rings in a 17 year old car. It worked and I'm hoping it will help my rear main seal. I'll keep you posted on how well it works. You can rest assured that if it doesn't work, I'll let you know. |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Tue Apr 29, 2008 6:51 pm ] |
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How much Diesel fuel did that 17yr old car burn? Or, how often did you fill the fuel tank with Diesel fuel? |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 2:17 am ] |
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Hey, auto-rx has hundreds of testimonials and it helped me in the past. It is supposed to also restore or recondition engine seals and fix minor leaks. I'll give it a shot before I drop a tranny and replace the seal. |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Wed Apr 30, 2008 3:00 am ] |
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Next question - have you actually determined that the drip is the rear mainseal? Trick question, so compose your answer accordingly.......... |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:21 pm ] |
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Its the rear main seal. The autorx worked for a bit and the leak is back. I spent 2 hours under vehicle looking for other potential sources of leak. The oil is seeping from where the tranny bell housing is mounted to the engine block. Turbo, oil pan, valve cover, all are oil free. I just added a quart of Barrs "Stop Rear Main Seal" product and put 140 miles on vehicle today. Oil leak is now a slow seapage but its gonna need repair soon 
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| Author: | onthehunt [ Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:32 pm ] |
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You forgot 80w90!! |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Mon Oct 13, 2008 9:19 am ] |
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80w-90 isnt much thicker than what is in there now. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.html The bars stuff I put in it is not motor honey. Its a 30 weight oil that has seal swell agents in it. Other than dropping tranny, anything else major involved in replacing this seal? |
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| Author: | ATXKJ [ Mon Oct 13, 2008 10:40 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
at 40K miles you might check to see if you're still under the powertrain warranty (05's had 70K - don't know about 06's) |
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| Author: | Joe Romas [ Mon Oct 13, 2008 4:52 pm ] |
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ATXKJ wrote: at 40K miles you might check to see if you're still under the powertrain warranty (05's had 70K - don't know about 06's)
06 models have 3/36 bumper to bumper 
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| Author: | Drewd [ Tue Oct 14, 2008 11:11 pm ] |
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It started leaking 2k miles past warranty. Yes, I did check repeatedly under the vehicle for any signs of leakage just before the warranty ran out. Its going to the dealership tomorrow for estimate. BOHICA! BOHICA= bend over, here it comes again. |
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| Author: | Sir Sam [ Wed Oct 15, 2008 12:58 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Drewd wrote: It started leaking 2k miles past warranty. Yes, I did check repeatedly under the vehicle for any signs of leakage just before the warranty ran out.
Its going to the dealership tomorrow for estimate. BOHICA! BOHICA= bend over, here it comes again. Sorry mate! |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:43 am ] |
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Could be 1:1000000 rear mainseal leak, but more likely dipstick tube leak, or panrail leak, or CCV leak trailing down back of block, engine-cover seal leak, etc................ |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:53 pm ] |
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Well, 100 bucks for diagnosis from Jeep dealership and here is what the service writer wrote on the ticket: 1. Leaking head gasket on left hand side of engine block. I then went and talked to the tech, he's a good kid and knows and drives diesels. In fact, the local Dodge dealer sends their problem diesels to him for repair. He told me he doesn't know where the leak is coming from. There is green dye (my dye) in front of the engine and also at the rear of the engine on the fire wall. Its possible the dye (oil) is coming from the crank shaft seals? He will not replace the head gasket without being 100% positive that it is leaking oil. He put red dye in the crank case and put 20 miles on the vehicle and didn't see any red dye coming out. He wants me to bring it in in several hundred miles so he can take another peek at it. Gotta love dealerships, service writer was a know it all jack booty and the tech who actually did the work was honest and put car back on lift for me to see. |
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| Author: | warp2diesel [ Wed Oct 15, 2008 11:01 pm ] |
| Post subject: | RE Well $100 bucks |
Drewd wrote: Gotta love dealerships, service writer was a know it all jack @$#% and the tech who actually did the work was honest and put car back on lift for me to see.
Service Writer: English Major who can't get a job teaching English, or Waiting Tables
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| Author: | gmctd [ Thu Oct 16, 2008 3:42 am ] |
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Engine cover seal, etc..................... |
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| Author: | Drewd [ Sat Oct 18, 2008 11:01 am ] |
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GM, What is an engine cover seal and is it easy to replace or repair? |
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| Author: | Sir Sam [ Sat Oct 18, 2008 1:31 pm ] |
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Drewd wrote: GM,
What is an engine cover seal and is it easy to replace or repair? i think he is talking about the "valve" cover seal, the intake and valve cover are one unit, so they come off together. The plus side to have to remove that is your intake could be throughly cleaned. While its not a walk in the park, it is certainly less labor intensive than a RMS. |
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| Author: | gmctd [ Sat Oct 18, 2008 7:55 pm ] |
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Correct - the camshaft carrier and intake manifold are combined into one large aluminum casting, labeled as engine cover - very involved process, therefore, to pull the intake manifold for cleaning, involving total camshaft timing\setup - not an easy task - use an inspection mirror and a spotlite to inspect the entire sealing area around the perimiter of the engine cover-to-head seam for fresh wet black seepage |
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