Project MJ CRD is born:

linewarbr · **Posted:** Wed Mar 25, 2009 8:48 am

Is that exhaust routed around to the intake similar on the 2.8?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:44 pm

nursecosmo wrote:

What is the black spin on cartrige mounted beside the Fram?

Thats the cartridge that came on the engine, the sucker sticks way out and just wont clear the framerail, hence the screw on filter from a TJ.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Wed Mar 25, 2009 12:45 pm

linewarbr wrote:

Is that exhaust routed around to the intake similar on the 2.8?

Similar yes, but not the same. Hard to explain without side by side comparison pictures.

RabidRdKill · **Posted:** Wed Mar 25, 2009 11:39 pm

Wow Sam that's impressive. Haven't been around in a while...it looks like things are really trucking along (pun intended).

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:55 am

RabidRdKill wrote:

Wow Sam that's impressive. Haven't been around in a while...it looks like things are really trucking along (pun intended).

And appreciated.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:34 am

Not much else to add, got my passenger side mount finished today, need to modify the drivers side mount in the same way. I tried to start on that tonight but my chop saw blade self destructed, time for a new one, gotta wait till harbor freight opens tomorrow morning to get another.

After this I need to make a little plate to bolt the transmission to the transmission mount, after that I will work on clearancing the floor to clear the transfer case(trans and transfer case are a good deal further back than they were stock.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 9:49 am

Sir Sam: You must have had a bunch of practice.

To see a non robotic weld look that good is a sign of a good welder.

Have you had A.W.S. training?

What brand and model of welder do you use?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 12:48 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Sir Sam: You must have had a bunch of practice.

To see a non robotic weld look that good is a sign of a good welder.

Have you had A.W.S. training?

What brand and model of welder do you use?

If your being facetious ok, its funny.

If your serious, well, then my welds really dont look that good, lots of spatter and they go back and forth between nice clean beads and pourous blobs.

Plus I was using some pretty cheap rods from harbor frieght that left a helluva lot of slag/scale on the weld which complicated things.

Oh well, my skills as a welder are improving all the time. I have a Campbell Hausfeld 220V arc welder.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 1:45 pm

Sir Sam: All I have to go by is the pics. The weld on the top is great with good penetration.

FYI: DOD and Army Corps of Engineers use the American Welding Society standards for all of their welds. US Water Treatment and Waste Water Treatment manufacturers also use those standards.

The weld you did on the top of your mount meets that standard. If your other welds don't look as good, make sure you grind first instead of busting through rust and make sure your ground clamp is carrying the full amps into the work. I suspect you did both on this job, that is why it looks professional.

You would be shocked if you knew how many frequent flier miles I have racked up due to poor welds that look pretty but break. I will be shocked if your welds on your motor mount mounting bracket ever fail.

My old trick is to use E6011 (never E6013) for vertical and horizontal welds and E7014 for flat welds. For the structural work I do the Engineers require E7018 that needs DC to work. If my welder had DC, I would use E7018.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:00 pm

Old part of engine mount bracket cut off, new piece of angle iron tacked on.

Tacked all the way around:

I may not be the best welder, but, well........I may not be the best welder.

Look ma, no hands!

Drivers side mount under compression:

So theres that, got the engine mounts done and the engine in place, I need to modify the transmount to bolt now, and then I will need to clearance the rear floor to get the transfer case in place.

Plenty of stuff to be done.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Mar 29, 2009 11:09 pm

warp2diesel wrote:

Sir Sam: All I have to go by is the pics. The weld on the top is great with good penetration.

FYI: DOD and Army Corps of Engineers use the American Welding Society standards for all of their welds. US Water Treatment and Waste Water Treatment manufacturers also use those standards.

The weld you did on the top of your mount meets that standard. If your other welds don't look as good, make sure you grind first instead of busting through rust and make sure your ground clamp is carrying the full amps into the work. I suspect you did both on this job, that is why it looks professional.

You would be shocked if you knew how many frequent flier miles I have racked up due to poor welds that look pretty but break. I will be shocked if your welds on your motor mount mounting bracket ever fail.

My old trick is to use E6011 (never E6013) for vertical and horizontal welds and E7014 for flat welds. For the structural work I do the Engineers require E7018 that needs DC to work. If my welder had DC, I would use E7018.

I have some 3/32 6011 that I used for tacking the pieces together, it strikes real nice and easy, but I don't like the penetration it gives me with this thicker steel.

I used 1/8 7014 for welding these up, but it didn't like being welded vertical, so on the flat welds it did fine, but other places the puddle ran too much. Oh well, they should hold just fine.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:13 am

wow.... look at all of that space under the hood... this is one reason I love old cars and trucks

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:21 am

Diggerfreek wrote:

wow.... look at all of that space under the hood... this is one reason I love old cars and trucks

Its gonna get cramped real fast.

Inc · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:54 am

Your welds look like mine used to. Mine have slowly improved but still aren't what I would call "pretty". They get the job done though as I am sure yours do too.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 2:58 am

Inc wrote:

Your welds look like mine used to. Mine have slowly improved but still aren't what I would call "pretty". They get the job done though as I am sure yours do too.

yup, get the job done, and thats what matters

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:04 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

Diggerfreek wrote:

wow.... look at all of that space under the hood... this is one reason I love old cars and trucks

Its gonna get cramped real fast.

are you adding more goodies? The battery and fuse box won't take up that much room

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:21 pm

Diggerfreek wrote:

Sir Sam wrote:

Diggerfreek wrote:

wow.... look at all of that space under the hood... this is one reason I love old cars and trucks

Its gonna get cramped real fast.

are you adding more goodies? The battery and fuse box won't take up that much room

Engine bay wiring harness, power distribution center, brake booster/master cyl, slave cyl, airbox, intake, turbo piping, radiator, intercooler, ac condensor, Ac lines, powersteering lines steering box, etc etc......it adds up.

Worked on fitting the 2500 fenders and headlights:

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:24 pm

Man that mj is looking better and better every day

Inc · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:32 pm

I probably missed this already, sorry, but is that one of those 2500 Cherokee grills and lights? Or whatever they are called?

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:40 pm

Inc wrote:

I probably missed this already, sorry, but is that one of those 2500 Cherokee grills and lights? Or whatever they are called?

yup

http://www.colorado4wheel.com/content/Jeep2500.html

Project MJ CRD is born:

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