LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Anybody know what to torque the drain plug to?

According to the service manual, the drain plug is torqued to 50 newton-meters or 37 ft lbs. I've used this torque level when I change oil and it seems to work fine. I'd also recommend buying an extra copper washer from the dealer, they are cheap ($2 or so) and it would save a lot of grief if you lose it.

Alljeep I'm sure I went well over 37 ft-lbs, but I bought an extra plug just in case. I know I didn't damage the oil pan yet so this info is good news for the rest of my oil changes.

Quote:

Alljeep I'm sure I went well over 37 ft-lbs, but I bought an extra plug just in case. I know I didn't damage the oil pan yet so this info is good news for the rest of my oil changes.

The drain plug is steel and not as easy damaged as the cast aluminum oil pan. The bigest problem is cross threading because the steel plug will cut new threads across the old and not allow a proper seal. The idea of not having any oil on the threads is also not a good idea as the dislike metals of aluminum and steel will corrode togather, this can happen amazingly fast in a wet or saltly conditions. The copper washers should be replace ocassionally, maybe every 3rd or 4th oil change to prevent leaks.

Author:	LibertyCRD [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 8:57 am ]
Post subject:	Anybody know what to torque the drain plug to?
I'm curious about the recommended torque that should be used to tighten the drain plug on the oil pan back up. It was a *itch to get off...so it must have been pretty tight to begin with. But how tight should I put it back on? Anyone know?

Author:	retmil46 [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 12:08 pm ]
Post subject:
This is one where you'd better call the service department at a reputable dealer. It doesn't say anything in the owners manual. Unless you've purchased a copy of the service manual, only way to be sure would be to give the dealer service dept a call. If you call the service dept and they don't have a clue, and you're still determined to DIY, then IMHO I wouldn't go any higher than 20 ft/lbs MAXIMUM. Use the minimum it takes to keep it from leaking. If the info from the brochure is correct, that's an aluminum oil pan. If you spot torque it (pull on the wrench until you see spots), you could strip out the threads on the plug, the drain hole, or both. Then you're screwed. A tip from my own oil change - clean off that plug and the threads in the drain hole, use a clean rag and a wire brush. If necessary, snake a clean rag up inside the drain hole to soak up any residual oil, to keep it from running out the hole while you're threading the plug back in, depositing more grit/soot in the threads. When you thread the plug back in, if it feels like it's catching or grinding on something, and won't go in easily by hand, pull it back out and clean it and the drain hole again. It doesn't have to be butter smooth, but it should go in by hand without difficulty.

Author:	LibertyCRD [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 12:23 pm ]
Post subject:
Well the interesting thing about the drain plug on this CRD is that it's threaded to where it's either REAL tight, or it's REAL loose...one of the two. So the thing that concerns me is that if you don't get it tight enough, this thing could very easily rattle around and back itself out and then drop all your oil on the Interstate one day. Seems like I had read somewhere that it was 35 ft./lbs...but I don't remember clearly. I agree with you that it shouldn't be too much past that point. I called my local "5 star" Jeep dealership and they looked through two different sources and couldn't find anything on torque spec. for the drain plug. It listed the spec. for the oil pan bolts themselves, etc...but not the drain plug. So he said just "tighten it by feel" which is what I did, but now I'm concerned that I may have overtightened it because once it felt tight I gave it another 1/4 turn. And I heard that can destroy the o-ring seal on the plug, strip the threads, etc. if it's too tight. So anyway, thanks for the advice. Next time I change my oil I will use a torque wrench to monitor how tight I get the plug. And if I find out anything for sure on what it's really supposed to be torqued to I'll post it here. Thanks.

Author:	retmil46 [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 1:26 pm ]
Post subject:
Actually, I believe it's the copper washer on the drain plug that does the sealing. If nothing else, tighten it until you hear it squeak, then stop. I used a torque wrench on mine, and when I got around 20 ft/lbs, it moved a little and you could hear it squawk, metal rubbing on metal. Wait a couple of days, and see if you get any seepage. If so, then give it a little more torque.

Author:	wolcott [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:19 pm ]
Post subject:
According to the service manual, the drain plug is torqued to 50 newton-meters or 37 ft lbs. I've used this torque level when I change oil and it seems to work fine. I'd also recommend buying an extra copper washer from the dealer, they are cheap ($2 or so) and it would save a lot of grief if you lose it.

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Author:	Guest [ Thu Nov 10, 2005 4:57 pm ]
Post subject:
wolcott wrote: According to the service manual, the drain plug is torqued to 50 newton-meters or 37 ft lbs. I've used this torque level when I change oil and it seems to work fine. I'd also recommend buying an extra copper washer from the dealer, they are cheap ($2 or so) and it would save a lot of grief if you lose it. Thanks for the definitive answer. I asked this question in another thread after 5 dealers could not get the answer for me. Never found out until now. I'm sure I went well over 37 ft-lbs, but I bought an extra plug just in case. I know I didn't damage the oil pan yet so this info is good news for the rest of my oil changes.

Author:	oldnavy [ Fri Nov 11, 2005 11:04 am ]
Post subject:
Quote: Alljeep I'm sure I went well over 37 ft-lbs, but I bought an extra plug just in case. I know I didn't damage the oil pan yet so this info is good news for the rest of my oil changes. The drain plug is steel and not as easy damaged as the cast aluminum oil pan. The bigest problem is cross threading because the steel plug will cut new threads across the old and not allow a proper seal. The idea of not having any oil on the threads is also not a good idea as the dislike metals of aluminum and steel will corrode togather, this can happen amazingly fast in a wet or saltly conditions. The copper washers should be replace ocassionally, maybe every 3rd or 4th oil change to prevent leaks.

Author:	retmil46 [ Fri Nov 11, 2005 12:30 pm ]
Post subject:
oldnavy wrote: Quote: Alljeep I'm sure I went well over 37 ft-lbs, but I bought an extra plug just in case. I know I didn't damage the oil pan yet so this info is good news for the rest of my oil changes. The drain plug is steel and not as easy damaged as the cast aluminum oil pan. The bigest problem is cross threading because the steel plug will cut new threads across the old and not allow a proper seal. The idea of not having any oil on the threads is also not a good idea as the dislike metals of aluminum and steel will corrode togather, this can happen amazingly fast in a wet or saltly conditions. The copper washers should be replace ocassionally, maybe every 3rd or 4th oil change to prevent leaks. True about the oil on the threads, but use clean oil out of the bottle, not that crap from inside the engine. Still need to clean out the threads on both the hole and plug to get rid of the grit and soot that comes out with the old oil, then lubricate at least the plug with fresh oil before putting it back in. also make sure that the copper washer is clean and lubricated with fresh oil. Completely agree with changing out that washer every so often.

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