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Leaking Fuel Head/Filter Assembly....
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=33876		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Fri Jul 04, 2008 9:38 pm ]
Post subject:  Leaking Fuel Head/Filter Assembly....
Ok I go out and do my regularly scheduled oil change today, and then I notice that the plunger on the fuel filter assembly is leaking fuel! I have the Cummings pump in the tank now and never had any problems.
So my question is: Is there any way to remove the plunger and fix/plug it up or is it time for a new fuel head?
If it’s time for a fuel head, what are my choices? Thanks.
Author:  gmctd [ Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Sure - if you can remove the plunger, pull it out and pipe plug the hole - the large round cover is threaded into the head - use a punch to unthread it
Author:  dgeist [ Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Leaking Fuel Head/Filter Assembly....
Turbo Tim wrote:
Ok I go out and do my regularly scheduled oil change today, and then I notice that the plunger on the fuel filter assembly is leaking fuel! I have the Cummings pump in the tank now and never had any problems.
So my question is: Is there any way to remove the plunger and fix/plug it up or is it time for a new fuel head?
If it’s time for a fuel head, what are my choices? Thanks.


I say take it to the dealer and complain... assuming it's under warranty. Mine's been rock-solid since installing the cummins pump. Otherwise, I think the Racor Head is a fave: http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/racor.htm

Dan
Author:  kccrd [ Sat Jul 05, 2008 9:40 am ]
Post subject: 
I am on my third fuel filter head unit the last one just put on at 78,000 miles the dealer has never charged me for one they just take the old one back after I replace it . the last one worked about 7 months with the fuel heater plugged in thats where the leaks always start so this time I have left the heater plug unplugged and filled the space with pure black silicone that should fix the problem forever. The only good thing about replacing the head unit is I get a new fuel filter with it because it comes as a unit.
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Sat Jul 05, 2008 11:37 am ]
Post subject: 
Thanks for the info.
The last time my CRD saw a dealership it got neutered. There is no warrantee and I doubt that I would EVER take it to a dealership! I can usually fix just about anything.
I didn’t know if the top would come off or just quit now and get a new filter head.
I will try and plug it this morning.
Hey, I just had an idea!!! Why not tap and plug the hole with a pressure gauge?
Thanks all, I got work to do…..
Author:  gmctd [ Sat Jul 05, 2008 1:59 pm ]
Post subject: 
Good idea, for those wanting to see what their new lift pump system is up to - also, removing the 2 one-way valves will eliminate some of the restriction in the supply line.................
Author:  kccrd [ Sat Jul 05, 2008 11:10 pm ]
Post subject: 
Where are these 2 one way valves in the supply line located and are they easy to remove?
Author:  gmctd [ Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:20 pm ]
Post subject: 
One is the inlet to the pump diaphragm chamber, one is in the outlet path to the filter - prolly need to remove the diaphragm to do the deed
Author:  dgeist [ Sun Jul 06, 2008 2:22 pm ]
Post subject: 
gmctd wrote:
One is the inlet to the pump diaphragm chamber, one is in the outlet path to the filter - prolly need to remove the diaphragm to do the deed


So, replacing it with a Racor would pretty much take care of it, then? :)
Author:  gmctd [ Sun Jul 06, 2008 6:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yep - jist a tad more expensive, but that oughtta do it
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Sun Jul 06, 2008 8:24 pm ]
Post subject: 
Well I wanted to do was fix a little seepage leak. I fixed the plunger leak by unscrewing the housing around the plunger. Next I tapped the hole for ½ -20 thread. Ground off the rivet in the middle of the diaphragm and removed all of the steel plates on both sides of it. Put that back together and put a nylon washer on the head of the bolt and screwed it in. That leak is fixed but now I got another leak. The line going into the filter is the problem. Seems like the copper washers won’t seal anymore. No matter how hard I tighten the banjo bolt, it still leaks. New washers, still leaks. This is not right.
So for now I went and got more 14mm nylon washers and put on both sides of the banjo bolt, and no leaks. What a pain in the rear! I for the life of me can’t see any reason for it to be leaking. No it is not cracked.
Remember that I have the lift pump pushing fuel. I can see now why some have so many problems with air leaks. At least I can see where the problem is now.
Anyone else have problems sealing up the banjo fittings?
Author:  gmctd [ Mon Jul 07, 2008 10:23 pm ]
Post subject: 
That banjo'ed fitting is line out to the IP - I'd look at the mating surface on the fm head: good enuff fer 4-6" vacuum ain't good enuff fer 8-10psi pressure - normally that surface should be fly-cut during the tapping process for tight seal - all the tapped inlet surfaces are finished on my example - maybe yours is casting-finished, as installed - also possible your banjo is fubar'ed - Cummins uses fiber washers, or steel with o'ring insert
Author:  MACKJ [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 8:26 pm ]
Post subject: 
Turbo Tim wrote:
Anyone else have problems sealing up the banjo fittings?

Yep, had the same problems with the banjo bolts. I tried new washers etc but didn't try the nylon type.
I used a little Loctite Aviation Sealant (it does not set, stays sticky) on the washer faces and it has held for 10 months so far.
Author:  Turbo Tim [ Tue Jul 08, 2008 11:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
For my next attempt at this (this weekend), I plan to swap out the nylon washers as I don’t trust them with the under hood heat. I am going to try using some aluminum washers.
This is crazy as it “Should” seal.
I wish there was some kind of tool that could screw into the hole and reface the surface of the sealing washers.
If anybody knows of such a tool, speak up…
Author:  MACKJ [ Wed Jul 09, 2008 8:38 am ]
Post subject: 
Turbo Tim wrote:
For my next attempt at this (this weekend), I plan to swap out the nylon washers as I don’t trust them with the under hood heat. I am going to try using some aluminum washers.
This is crazy as it “Should” seal.
I wish there was some kind of tool that could screw into the hole and reface the surface of the sealing washers.
If anybody knows of such a tool, speak up…

OK, if you don't want to try the Loctite and the aluminum washers don't work, get hold of some PTFE (Teflon) washers...it will take the underhood temps no problem.
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