for those of you running Biodiesel

jdorris · **Posted:** Sat Aug 02, 2008 7:37 pm

I started a thread here http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=34643 . I am just wondering how many here run it, if you started with blends, or straight b100, what I should watch for? Filter changes etc.
Thanks

Mods, sorry for posting in two places.

MaineSleddah · **Posted:** Sat Aug 02, 2008 8:56 pm

I am going to New England Biodiesel on Aug 23 for a workshop. In his correspondences he says he has an "05" Liberty CRD he runs on Bio. You may want to drop him an email and ask him directly.
http://www.newenglandbiodiesel.net/index.htm
I am getting ready to start making my own biodiesel for my CRD and my home heating needs. :lol:

Hope this helps!

Threeweight · **Joined:** Mon May 14, 2007 5:57 pm **Posts:** 679

I run B20 or B99 (can't get B100 in Oregon).

If the Jeep has a few miles on it and has never run biodiesel, I'd recommend starting it out with B20 for the first few tanks. Keep a spare fuel filter on hand. Biodiesel is a mild solvent, and it will break down all the gunk and sludge in you fuel system from running dino-diesel. If you have a lot of miles on the Jeep (say 40k +), I'd run 2 tanks then change the fuel filter).

When I got my CRD it only had 5k on it. I started running B20 right away with no problems, did a filter change at 18k miles.

dgeist · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:06 am

Hi, I've been running B20 and B100 (also straight ULSD) for over 2 years and (other than running B100 when it was too cold and having it gell on me) have had no problems. I started with Bio when the CRD only had a few hundred miles, so the filter thing is a non-issue. Other than that, my current filter (the CAT that installed at about 2k) has over 25k miles. It's due for a change but has not suffered due to the fuel use, methinks.

I find that the best combination of smoothness, power, and fuel efficiency is with B20. I get better mileage with it than with unblended ULSD from the same place.

kcfoxie · **Joined:** Thu Mar 06, 2008 1:27 am **Posts:** 113

From our use of B10 (the truck only saw about 2 tanks of B100 due to cost restrictions), to B20, we see about 20mi more per fill up with a B10-B20 fuel.

Sooting seems to reduce.

I have 60,000 miles of B100 use in my TDI. I can say that adding 10% petrol nets an additional 30mi of driving per tank with it.

There was someone talking about using waste motor oil as a fuel diluted with diesel in their CRD. I really think you have little to be concerned with.

We've yet to change the filter, but we've only had the truck 20k miles now.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 11:27 am

I bought my CRD with 32k miles already on it, it's just over 52k now and I've only had it for 9 months. I've run about a dozen tanks of biodiesel through it, with 2 tanks of B100 in there somewhere. No filter changes yet, and just last night I was getting an EVIC reading of 29.7 mpg while driving in the White Mountains of New Hampshire.

On my way back to South Florida in a couple weeks, I plan to use my car as a burnable dumpster - I can't afford the fuel prices, so if its liquid and burns... I'm willing to give it a shot. My research and tests have shown that the waste veggie oil that I am getting access to will not separate out when mixed with dino-diesel, so that will be about a 50-50 mix... And I'm going to do the same with waste engine oil, if I can get any. All of this will be filtered to 5 micron before it goes into the tank however, so I'm not that worried. I'm sure more sediment arrives from the average truckstop than what I will allow into the tank.

I wouldn't suggest this for a long-term solution, but then again... With the proper filtration, it could work.

kcfoxie · **Joined:** Thu Mar 06, 2008 1:27 am **Posts:** 113

If you stop in RAleigh, NC I can supply you with a fair amount of WMO.. but it is unfiltered and its a mix of dino and synthetic. Probably 10-20 gallons for grabs, if interested.

You should totally try and find "free fuel stops" along the way to FL.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 2:57 pm

My friend who owns a transmission shop in Davie, FL pumps used tranny fluid into his tank. He's got a Cummins diesel he put into his TJ so it's a different engine. He figures he has to store the stuff for disposal anyway and it does work except it smokes a bit more. He mixed new fluid which he buys in bulk obviously and the used stuff that he flushes out of customers trannies. He tried running on straight burned fluid, but the results were negative.

He apparently fills up tanks for friends as well. I would never do it personally and he doesn't blame me

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:39 pm

Last 2 tanks used B100. Other than bleeding the fuel head more often, it's running just fine. I got the CRD with 36k on it and have not plugged one filter.

jdorris · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 5:46 pm

Thanks for the replies. I will probably start with a couple blended tanks, then switch to straight bio. I wil pick up an extra filter just in case.
I appreciate the info. I am trying to start a bio co-op down here in oklahoma but it is a small town and so far I haven't had much interest. I am starting to collect oil though. gonna have enough to increase the diesel fleet and fill a tractor or two as well.

Jeremy

UFO · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 8:37 pm

jdorris wrote:

Thanks for the replies. I will probably start with a couple blended tanks, then switch to straight bio. I wil pick up an extra filter just in case.
I appreciate the info. I am trying to start a bio co-op down here in oklahoma but it is a small town and so far I haven't had much interest. I am starting to collect oil though. gonna have enough to increase the diesel fleet and fill a tractor or two as well.

Jeremy

Definitely verify your fuel quality. An excellent test is called 3/27. Mix 3ml B100 in 27 ml methanol (yellow HEET), shake and let settle. If you get ANY oily dropout, the fuel still has vegetable oil in it and will not pass the ASTM standard for total glyerine. While you are at it, shake some B100 with water and make sure it separates quickly and the water remains clear. Any haze will mean residual soaps in the fuel.

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:43 pm

kcfoxie wrote:

If you stop in RAleigh, NC I can supply you with a fair amount of WMO.. but it is unfiltered and its a mix of dino and synthetic. Probably 10-20 gallons for grabs, if interested.

You should totally try and find "free fuel stops" along the way to FL.

Raleigh isn't exactly on I-95, but I might just take you up on that offer. It depends, I will be driving home with my family (who are driving up to NYC in a hybrid SUV that gets about the same mileage as the CRD)

The family might help with the fuel costs, or I might be able to find a couple restaurants that will let me pump out their cans to mix with the dino that I will be getting. I've got storage space for 60 gallons right now (plus the 20 in the tank) so that *should* be enough to get me home. Or dang close to it.

jdorris · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2008 1:32 am

[/quote]Definitely verify your fuel quality. An excellent test is called 3/27. Mix 3ml B100 in 27 ml methanol (yellow HEET), shake and let settle. If you get ANY oily dropout, the fuel still has vegetable oil in it and will not pass the ASTM standard for total glyerine. While you are at it, shake some B100 with water and make sure it separates quickly and the water remains clear. Any haze will mean residual soaps in the fuel.[/quote]

Thanks for the advice. I have been lurking on Biodiesel infopop, girlmark's tutorial page as well as a couple local pages. I have a guy here in town with an Appleseed that has been making it for a couple years to help me out as well. I will definitely be testing it before pouring it in the jeep. If I mess up the daily driver my wife'd kill me.

maxxgraphix · **Joined:** Wed Mar 26, 2008 8:11 am **Posts:** 53

She won't kill you. You'll just have to pay the tow bill, remove the tank, clean the tank, flush the fuel lines, replace the filter.

Don't ask me why I know.

for those of you running Biodiesel

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