Suncoast is in

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:00 pm

A big thanks to Sir Sam for coming over and helping me drop the tranny on the Jeep and install the new torque converter. We worked on it for about 4 hours Friday night, and I buttoned it up in another 4 on Saturday.

Initial driving impressions are good. It comes off the line better and pulls without getting so high up in the rpms. I used to go 40mph on level ground at 1500 rpm - now it's 1400. Not a huge difference, but it's measureable. And no unusual noises or vibration. There's a very noticeable difference between driving my wife's CRD with F37 and no Inmotion. I think Suncoast could even make the stall speed lower. I did not install a new trans pump at the time, and the shift kit has been in for almost a year.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:09 pm

While you had the pump out, did you go ahead and installed the big snap ring? If so was it easy enough??

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:12 pm

I did not install a new pump, so no, I still have the snap ring.

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:24 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

While you had the pump out, did you go ahead and installed the big snap ring? If so was it easy enough??

I dont see where that big snap ring was meant to be installed, looked much smaller than the one on the front case - so we left it off.

Also, for anyone doing this in the future, a couple of comments. The dipstick tube has one bolt holding it into the tranny, you remove it from the top, once you start to drop the tranny you can pull the dipstick tube up and out, the amount of tube installed down into the trans feels like alot - maybe 4-5 inches.

there is an access port above the starter to access the flexplate bolts, its a rubber "plug" that pulls out easily enough then you can get to the bolts.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 03, 2008 10:54 pm

These are to supplement the Factory Service Manual instructions. There are some mistakes in those, because it was written for the V6 KJ then modified a little for the diesel. Still, read them, because there are some things I may have left out of these, and its sections on driveshafts are helpful. Plus all the torque specs for the fasteners are in there.

Tools needed:
Sockets and wrenches in
8mm
10
13
14
15
16
18
15/16" (24mm?)
needlenose
medium flathead screwdriver
3 to 4 ft of extensions
u-joint extension
Ratchets and breaker bars
Impact wrench helps for the rear driveshaft
Air ratchet helps

Procedure:
Disconnect battery!
Remove tranny dipstick
Raise the Jeep somehow
Remove front 3 skid plates
Mark then remove driveshafts
Remove starter
Remove rubber access port plug just above starter (about 2"x3")
Use screwdriver to reach thru starter hole and rotate flexplate until 14mm bolt is visible thru access port
Use 3/8" rachet and 14mm deep socket to remove the 4 bolts that hold flexplate to torque converter
Remove tranny shift linkage and disconnect
Disconnect 4wd cable
Loosen exhaust-turbo band clamp
Disconnect exhaust flange ahead of muffler, pull cat section off hanger.
Remove bolt holding dipstick to tranny
Leave crossmember & transfer case on together with tranny
Get jack under tranny and preload a little
Remove six bolts holding crossmember to frame
Then lower rear end of tranny/transfer case
Watch that your Fumoto or oversized oil filter don't hit front crossmember
Undo cables, sensors, cooler lines (have something to plug them) from tranny
The 2 little threaded plugs between the cooler line fittings may be in the way of your wrench, ok to remove them for now
Yank dipstick tube out of tranny (it's in there deep!)
Loosen bellhousing bolts and remove them (there are 3 that come in from the front)
Back tranny off of engine and lower it down a little, torque converter will fall out if you let it, and it's 40lbs.
Grab the torque converter and pull it straight out of the tranny, don't dump all the fluid out of it onto yourself
Pour as much fluid out of it as you feel like into the new converter
Make sure the o-ring is present on the new converter's snout
Slide it into the tranny and seat it. Should be at least 1/2" between its front edge and the front edge of tranny
Push the tranny back up and onto the engine dowels. Make sure you don't pinch any cables or tubes between them
Start installing bellhousing bolts
Basically reverse the procedure from here
Reach through the starter hole, behind the flexplate and rotate the converter to find the threaded holes.
Make sure that first flexplate bolt thru hole is centered over the converter's threaded hole when you install it.
If not and you torque it, you may not get the next three in.
Remember to reconnect all plugs and lines to tranny and top up with fluid.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 1:04 am

Suncoast CRD TC is the Hemi TC, which results in lowered stall - the snap-ring goes in the case back behind the pump and input drum, requires some disassembly of the input drivetrain to change out - replacing the TC requires replacing the front seal, or will leak shortly after R&R - front seal fits in the oem pump snout - front seal is the large round cover if the modified pump has been installed

Also easier to rotate crank from front. using harmonic-balancer bolt - requires helper with some finesse so as not to crush your fingers in the flexplate access port

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:15 am

Thanks gmctd, I guess it wouldn't hurt to install the snap ring if also replaceing the pump with a little more effort. I tow the 3,000 lbs trailer cross country a couple more times, I know my TC will become due for change.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 9:36 am

You likely won't have any trouble with the oem snap-ring unless you're repeatedly snap-shifting at full wide open throttle, like the Hemi boys do on the track - but, if you replace the pump, it's not much more hassle to pull the input drum for disassembly to replace the snap-ring - take a look the snap-ring page in the kit to see if you're up to it

geordi · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 12:05 pm

What is the stall speed on the Suncoast? As a follow-up to that, how low could they theoretically go before the engine was seriously lugging? Transmissions and torque converters are something of a magical part to me - I still have no clue how they really work.

And the best question of all - When it gets to be time for my TC install... Would any of the supermen here be interested in helping me do it?

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 04, 2008 3:10 pm

Ron stated that it was ~1500-1700, where the original was 2200 - stall speed is also determined by input torque, which means as you power-up the engine, stall speed increases as the engine can input more power to make the hydraulic coupling slip

Bill.Barg · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:00 am

A very big thanks for the instructions, CATCRD and SirSam !

I have all the parts. Planning a strategy for TC install, pump replacement, wix filters and transgo shift kit install, along with new spicer u joints on the rear shaft. Splurged on Amsoil ATF . See other post RE: transgo choices.

Some questions.....

How high up does she need to go to do the job? Both ends up?

Does the engine need to be supported? If so...any tricks?

Can this job be done solo?

Does the new TC need to be filled up prior to install? (not mentioned in service manual, nor by Suncoast)

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:05 am

Bill.Barg wrote:

A very big thanks for the instructions, CATCRD and Retmil !

I have all the parts. Planning a strategy for TC install, pump replacement, wix filters and transgo shift kit install, along with new spicer u joints on the rear shaft. Splurged on Amsoil ATF . See other post RE: transgo choices.

Some questions.....

How high up does she need to go to do the job? Both ends up?

Does the engine need to be supported? If so...any tricks?

Can this job be done solo?

Does the new TC need to be filled up prior to install? (not mentioned in service manual, nor by Suncoast)

High enough that you can get under it and get to stuff, jackstand or ramps can do.

no need to support engine.

Can be done solo, but a second pair of hands is immensely useful, and when it comes to placing the trans back on is about 3000% better to have two vs one, and about 4000% better to have 3 people.

You could do most stuff by yourself, then call over a buddy under the guise of drinking beer and get him to help with the heavy lifting part where the extra 2 hands is most useful.

Helps to fill it as much as possible, but doesn't need to be done. if you dont fill it it will take longer to get the fluid level back to where it needs to be.

MTB_TDI · **Posted:** Sat Aug 30, 2008 12:54 pm

CATCRD,
have you noticed a fuel mileage improvement?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Aug 30, 2008 6:25 pm

MTB_TDI wrote:

CATCRD,
have you noticed a fuel mileage improvement?

Sadly, no. And I've been paying attention. I did it for the durability though.

nescosmo · **Joined:** Sat Jul 14, 2007 11:17 pm **Posts:** 202

Do you work the tranny by removing it to the out side of the vehicle or you just live it in place back it up and work under the vehicle. Can you emty the TC before you take it out.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sun Aug 31, 2008 5:07 pm

You can do everything under the vehicle. Just move it back about a foot and down about a foot. You can't get the fluid out of the TC before removing it, but it's really no big deal.

crdjon · **Posted:** Fri Aug 21, 2009 1:40 am

And from downunder (OZ), looks like the new (09 built PN 04736587AC) HEMI 5.7 TC trial will happen in about 4 weeks.

Just waiting for the EX JEEP trained man to get his workshop up and running.

GUYS after replacing your TC with the SUNCOAST did you get a quick learn performed on the tranny?

UPDATE:
Hemi TC 04736587AC is in and running, quite nice.

Did not do quick learn or anything, just plugged it in, connected battery and it drove well, the ex jeep trained mechanic I got to fit it and who now works for himself drove it to and his eye brows ran out of forehead in surprise. He could not believe the pull, shifting firmness and smoothness, his words "christ this thing drives like the merc"

, the religion was lost on me.

No shifts really noticeable and you got to watch the speedo coz you get there quicker and quieter.

No temp issues noted and does not appear to need to be neutral shifted although I do anyway.

The retired tc in the 2007 KJ CRD is P04736582AD.

Cheers

Drewd · **Joined:** Mon Feb 06, 2006 12:24 pm **Posts:** 902

What's this snapring talk? Is this "snapring" something that needs repalcement with the Suncoat TC?
Thanks!

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:30 am

Drewd wrote:

What's this snapring talk? Is this "snapring" something that needs repalcement with the Suncoat TC?
Thanks!

the "snapring" is a metal band that snaps into a groove in the trans to hold something behind it... when you take the T/C out to take the front cover off there are 2 snap rings... one on the input shaft and one around the outside... if you have 3 you should get the updated pump and front cover...

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Mon Aug 24, 2009 12:32 am

CATCRD wrote:

MTB_TDI wrote:

CATCRD,
have you noticed a fuel mileage improvement?

Sadly, no. And I've been paying attention. I did it for the durability though.

once you get used to the fun off the line... you should see a bit if improvement... nothing huge or anything... you'll save fuel on the launch of the vehicle.

Suncoast is in

Who is online