EGR removal and clean

DDom · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 10:56 am

i got the P0401 code. i want to remove and clean the EGR. have already done the FCV when it was sticking closed preventing restarts when engine was warm. The FCV was easy due to location, but the EGR is in a little deeper

Can anyone offer advice on the task at hand??

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:19 am

Here's some instructions I copied from a thread a couple weeks ago - don't remember who it was, but if it works for you, kudos to the carpenter -

R&R THE EGR VALVE
Ok....Here goes....
Keep in mind, I don't have a 05 KJ FS Mannie (I'm savin' up...) so I may not be able to call certain items by their correct names but I will do my best to describe them.
1. Disconnect and remove the battery.
2. Disconnect the wires and remove the power distribution center off of the battery tray. There are 3 snap connectors to release and it lifts off.
3. Remove the battery tray. If I remember there were 3 bolts.
4. Remove the CAC hose from the intercooler to the flow control valve (FCV) and disconnect the electrical connection to the FCV.
5. Remove the electrical connections to the fuel filter. Remove the banjo bolts holding the fuel lines to the filter head. DON'T lose the copper washers on each side of the banjo fittings. Remove the filter head/2 nuts and remove the filter assembly mounting bracket/3 nuts.
6. You'll see a steel tube with V-groove band clamp mounted to the FCV and a 2 bolt plate mounted to the EGR. Remove it. Removed the wire bracket just to save my knuckles when removing the tube from the EGR.
7. There are 4 allen head cap screws holding on the CAC hose snorkle and the FCV to the intake mannie remove them. There is a gasket I believe on the snorkle and a large O ring on the FCV or vice versa. Both are reusable. The gasket will be stuck on and the O ring fits in a groove.
8. With some acrobatic skills you'll be able to see the EGR and the cooling housing. You'll notice another steel tube coming from the other side around the back of the engine. Remove the 2 bolts into the EGR. No need to remove the tube the EGR will slide out.
9. The EGR has 2 small coolant lines attached to it at the mid point. Now, I didn't drain any coolant from the system. I cut off the squeeze-on clamps (CAREFUL not to nick the hoses and replaced with 2 good stainless steel clamps). Had a couple of plugs (about 3/8" dia) in hand and pulled off the hoses and plugged them. BE QUICK.....
10. Remove EGR. 4 bolts vertical to the floor. THERE is a steel gasket between the EGR and the cooling chamber mounting don't lose it or damage it.
You'll have to pull off various wire mounts just to shift them around but all pop out easily.
When I reassembled I used a little anti-sieze compound on all the fasteners just in case I'll be doing this again.
Also on the "Princess's" oiler there was another top engine (probably for sound) cover below the dressy cover. I cut the drivers half of that in half (with it full length and the wire bundles on top of it it took a lot of praying and cussing which canceled out the praying.... a bad circle) to remove easily so I can check and clean the boost sensor whe required.
Keep in mind when reassembling not to over tighten...
Refill the coolant tank accordingly.
Prime the fuel sytem. Put fire to'her.
Check for leaks and you're good to go.
How's that....for a Carpenter

DDom · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:30 am

thanks gmctd! i was wondering if the EGR could be removed without first removing the FCV. do you think removing the batt and tray is necessary?

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:51 am

Not much available real estate in there, air - sure beats removing the master cylinder and brake booster, tho, right?

You've already been in there for the AFC\FCV\TV job - how does it look to you - any easier path?

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:54 am

DDom wrote:

thanks gmctd! i was wondering if the EGR could be removed without first removing the FCV. do you think removing the batt and tray is necessary?

Some need more room to work than others. I think you need to remove the FCV to get to the EGR but if you can do that without removing the battery go for it. I think the same could be said of the fuel filter housing. It also seems to me that the EGR is more accessible from below when laying under there so perhaps that is a better approach angle for those who have tried it. I HAVE NOT so take my advice with a big not of caution. :wink:

DDom · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:05 pm

yea i was thinkin' the FCV definitely OUT. probably the cast elbow to the intake also, but the filter maybe. and the batt and tray NOT. as for working under...unless you got orangutan arms, that's tough.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:17 pm

I'm thinking if you can get it on a lift, you can get it from underneath because it is just over the starter.

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:22 pm

DDom wrote:

yea i was thinkin' the FCV definitely OUT. probably the cast elbow to the intake also, but the filter maybe. and the batt and tray NOT. as for working under...unless you got orangutan arms, that's tough.

Oh that's funny, :-)r

I'm able to change the fuel filter with my one good arm from underneath, I'm sure others can do more with two good arms.

DDom · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 12:27 pm

'Clyde' would be helpful at times! but then again he would probably tear-up more long term

i'm thinking those lifts in the Northern catalog look pretty sweeet right about now

truckbouy2 · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:31 pm

I tried to access the egr from below....It would be easy if you could do everything with one hand, like removing the coolant lines and plugging them, etc. I couldn't do it, 'cause ALL I could get in there, was one hand....Maybe from a lift....But laying on my back...Couldn't do it.
Good Night and Good Luck...
The Carpenter :wink:

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 2:43 pm

This is the instruction from the service manual. These instruction is more doable from underneath, Please note it says to remove the EGR valve and cooler assembly from the vehicle. I have pictures from the service manual but I don't thing it will be big enough posting online.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine cover.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at EGR valve.
5. Disconnect coolant hoses at EGR valve (1) and
cooler (5).
6. Disconnect tube at the EGR valve housing.
7. Remove EGR valve housing to engine block fastener.
8. Remove EGR valve and cooler assembly from
vehicle.
9. Remove EGR valve to cooler retaining bolts and
separate EGR valve from cooler.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:23 pm

Ok - that makes it much simpler, then -

- leave the battery\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in there, and have a 7' four-post lift installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' x 5' x 5'deep trench in the center of your driveway, crawl in and have the significant other drive the Jeep over you

:lol:

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 3:37 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

This is the instruction from the service manual. These instruction is more doable from underneath, Please note it says to remove the EGR valve and cooler assembly from the vehicle. I have pictures from the service manual but I don't thing it will be big enough posting online.

REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Remove engine cover.
3. Drain cooling system.
4. Disconnect the electrical connector at EGR valve.
5. Disconnect coolant hoses at EGR valve (1) and
cooler (5).
6. Disconnect tube at the EGR valve housing.
7. Remove EGR valve housing to engine block fastener.
8. Remove EGR valve and cooler assembly from
vehicle.
9. Remove EGR valve to cooler retaining bolts and
separate EGR valve from cooler.

For anyone that wants to print that specific page:
http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/ ... _P6040.pdf

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:13 pm

gmctd wrote:

Ok - that makes it much simpler, then -

- leave the battery\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in there, and have a 7' four-post lift installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' x 5' x 5'deep trench in the center of your driveway, crawl in and have the significant other drive the Jeep over you

:lol:

Just get a piece of cardboard and slid right under the jeep like the good old days. Don't even need a jack if your skinny enough.

Cowcatcher · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:48 pm

BlackLibertyCRD wrote:

gmctd wrote:

Ok - that makes it much simpler, then -

- leave the battery\associated stuff and the filter\associated stuff in there, and have a 7' four-post lift installed in your driveway

- even simpler, excavate a 10' x 5' x 5'deep trench in the center of your driveway, crawl in and have the significant other drive the Jeep over you

:lol:

Just get a piece of cardboard and slid right under the jeep like the good old days. Don't even need a jack if your skinny enough.

I'm not skinny enough but you know a CRD in part time 4WD and low will just climb right up on top of a couple of 6x6 blocks left over from the construction of a pole building. :lol:

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 6:49 pm

Yep - but I been wantin' a 7' 4-poster and a trench for years..........................

DDom · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 8:42 pm

Well I see you guys have entertained yourselves while I've been busy removing the EGR.

While I was skinny enough, I didn't think a piece of cardboard or a lift or a trench were entirely necessary...so I went with the old-fashioned 'winging it' method. I separated the solenoid from the valve body and have the valve body soaking. I'll be reassembling and reinstalling tomorrow. Wish me luck that P0401 is never more!!

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:01 pm

Hey - what're friends for, eh? At least we weren't hangin' around, gettin' in your way...........................

BlackLibertyCRD · **Posted:** Mon Oct 08, 2007 9:24 pm

Glad we were able to help!

DDom · **Posted:** Wed Oct 10, 2007 11:16 am

well my reinstall went okay except for the coolant hoses not wanting to seat (keep from spinning) properly with those OEM spring clamps

so I took a step back and decided to use old stand bys' , worm gear styles and a dab of gasket adhesive. startup went great and no leaks! but the CEL wouldn't auto extinquish, soo off to the parts house for a scantool and clearing. had multiple starts since and all is good so far. needless to say, the soot is not a good thing for these intakes and associated parts.

EGR removal and clean

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