Well I decided to put the fuel tank skid on I bought. Took off ye old trailer hitch. Used a jack to hoist up used Mopar skid into position. Bolted it to one side losely... all is well so far. Went to other side... It bottoms out against the tank with an inch and a half left to go.

I paid someone to do the in tank lift pump, so I wondered if the tank was remounted too low when it was put back together. I can easily trace where the tank sits flush against the lines of the sheet metal on the body. Not much clearance there at all, certainly not two inches and it does not like something that can be screwed up too much as it is molded to fit the body and sit flush with it.

I wanted to fiddle with it some more, but it got too dark to see and I went inside. And so it is sitting out there waiting for tomorrow...

Has anyone had an issue like this? Did they redesign the skid plate for newer KJs?

I had the same problem, I had to get under the tank skid, lift it up and move it around until it went up properly. I think I had to put the front end up first, put in the bolt on the drivers side front and then I lifted the rear of the tank and put in the passenger side rear bolt. It will not work if you bolt one side first, you need to be able to wiggle the tank around so it goes up properly.

The bolt on the passenger side at the front over the tailpipe is a bugger. You will need a Gearwrench to get it tightened up. You cannot get a socket in there and you will be turning a regular hand wrench forever.

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2006 KJ Sport, Dark Khaki, 3.7 Litre
NSG370 6 Speed Manual Transmission | NP241J Command Trac HD Part Time 4wd | 3.55s | 245/70R16 Firestone Destination A/Ts | Mopar Tow Hooks & Skids | Powerslot Brake Rotors | ARB Rear Differential Cover

Roger that. I will take it off and start over with the drivers side front. I loosely bolted the passenger side first and I guess that was a no go.

It can be a cranky bustard to get it there, especially if it is really out of square from shipping. You have to get under and bench press it up and then move it around. Once the drivers front bolt goes in, it is a lot easier. Just make sure the back and front are up against the frame before you put the bolt in, then you can slide the skid around and put in the passenger rear bolt. Good luck.

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2006 KJ Sport, Dark Khaki, 3.7 Litre
NSG370 6 Speed Manual Transmission | NP241J Command Trac HD Part Time 4wd | 3.55s | 245/70R16 Firestone Destination A/Ts | Mopar Tow Hooks & Skids | Powerslot Brake Rotors | ARB Rear Differential Cover

Oh, it is not exactly square, that is for sure. But that has more to do with being on Signcutter21's rig for a year or two than from shipping. I might take the BFH to it a bit before reattempt tomorrow.

Pablo!
I put on my tank skid not three weeks ago-Mopar brand out of the box. It fit snug but it fit- no "way off fit"
Had to remove U-Haul hitch first.
U-Haul (Valley, Drawtite, Kurt brands otherwise) hitches for Liberty has the center bolt on each wing larger to pass the both the bolt and the conical toothed washer, letting the stock tank skid, if originally equipped to not fall off when the other four corner bolts are removed for hitch installation.
So when I installed I put those middle guys on first(hand tight). Then I reinstalled the hitch.
Then when all the bolts are on ( hand tight is recommended), then simply remove those middle bolts and reinstall with blocks (plates) larger than the large holes but not wider then the flange on the wing. Remember each bolt has a conical washer also.
When you torque down here's the trick on that passenger front bolt access. Simply get a large pry bar (5 foot long at least) and stick it in the exhaust tail pipe and MOVE OVER the whole tail pipe, towards the right, out of the way to allow a regular socket on the end of a short extension attached to your impact wrench straight unrestricted "rat-tat-tat" access. I used to hold the pry bay with my right shoulder while I worked that bolt!
I torqued to 90 Lbs (the torque value of most 4 cylinder gasser motors)!
I work for U-Haul and have installed probably 100 or so KJ hitches so far and you learn a lot of short cuts!

Roland

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2006 CRD LTD 2.8L VM Motori turbo,CAC, 100K-new timing belt
ORM-SEGR, Trans cooler, CLIII hitch front/rear, Journey HD controller
Mopar skids,"Stone Soup" rails, KK clevis fork 1" mild lift w/Daystar stops
215x85 LRD BFG Commercial A/T's, Rola Rack, V6 airbox, Fumoto valve
10K winch, B5 Biodiesel (ULSD CP3 lube)
Its a Diesel baby!

Well thanks for the help, but I am tired of beating on it. I will just chuck it and get another one and see if that works. It is bent along the drivers side and it ain't bending back with my persuasion. Even if it did, not sure it would clear. Perhaps it is just too warped out and bowed. It will not bolt up to the drivers side at all. I can get the bolt farthest forward to start, but the other two bolts on that side are not even in range to get started. It is hung up on the bottom of the tank (bottomed out). The passenger side bolts up just fine, but there is no way to get the other side to clear the bottom of the tank and bolt up. The metal is to think to bang the dents out, so I am done with it. Everything I have done this weekend has been a bomb... been better off doing nothing