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Member needs some help...CORGHNCK http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=35441 |
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Author: | DarbyWalters [ Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:27 pm ] |
Post subject: | Member needs some help...CORGHNCK |
From: corghnck Subject: 2006 Jeep Liberty At 62000 miles I was in Greely Colorado about 150 miles from home ( close to Canon city Colorado) anyway we rounded the corner and heard a Pop which I know now was the heat resistant hose from the FCV to the Radiator $140.00 at a dealer 80 miles away. I had a coolant level light come on earlier and checked the level in the reservoir which was fine. After the pop the jeep loast power and I borrowed a OBD reader from autozone and got a R0299 boost low signal. I question if this was from the hose or a problem with the boost control which i found on the left fenderwell and checked for vac leaks thanks to this website which I do appreciate. I limped 150 miles home as the jeep dealer in greely blew me off on a thursday afternoon at 4:45. I heard the air from the hose on the way home but htought it was a wastegate valve (which I now know I dont have thanks to this site old guy learning ) anyway the hose blew a considerable amount of oil all over the starter. I have removed the starter to get at the ERG valve which I understand should be a (EGRCCV) valve. I ramble on....Questions are 1. Is there a way to check the boost control system? 2.Is there a way to check the E(EGRCCV) valve if I get it off the vehicle as I believe it may have stuck causing all the oil or the oil may be from the 62000 with no cleaning etc. 3. If the valve is stuck open can I close it and run like that with the MAF (on filter box) disconnected and will it keep all the water oil blowby etc inside the engine instead of releasing it causeing excessive crank case pressure? 4. IF there is no problem with closing off the EGRCCV valve as in an ORM then could I get the specs for this? 5. How much air presure should I apply to the intercooler to see if it has clogged? 6. I live offroad so mods are no problem for me ( I live to pester greenies) I am considering moving the FCV to the inlet of the turbo with say a KN filter attatched /routing the EG to behind the catconvertor and venting the CCV out of the EGR if it is neccessary. Oh yea I plan to be driving this vehicle 30 years from now ........... I appreciate all your help already.... _________________ Hello from high in the rockies!!! 2006 Liberty CRD (wifeys) 1986 F250 Greaser |
Author: | gmctd [ Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:38 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
You're over-complicating things - the cac hose blew due to the excess oil from the CCV system resulting in low Boost condition at all rpm = DTC P0299 - cure: replace that hose, and the one from the compressor to the cac (there's a special going on right now on SAMCO replacement hoses, group buy, but they're back-ordered) - do the quick and dirty (no, really really dirty!) elephant hose mod or add the Provent filter to get rid of the oil in the intake which will prevent it from happening again - have the DTC's cleared, see what comes up (besides Boost), post that here - do some reading in CRD TECH section for quicker solution resolution |
Author: | Sir Sam [ Tue Aug 26, 2008 11:41 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Blown boost hose..............FYI through ProJeep in denver you could get one for about $85 new. |
Author: | corghnck [ Wed Aug 27, 2008 8:31 am ] |
Post subject: | Thanks for the input |
I will start with the hose...... |
Author: | retmil46 [ Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:05 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
Just a general comment, not directed towards any person - Doesn't anyone carry a roll of duct tape and a few good-sized hose clamps any more, as part of their emergency kit? If it'll work for an emergency repair on a radiator hose, it should certainly work on a boost hose. ![]() |
Author: | UFO [ Wed Aug 27, 2008 6:25 pm ] |
Post subject: | |
retmil46 wrote: Just a general comment, not directed towards any person - Yes. As soon as I touched the CAC hoses before I installed my CCV filter.
Doesn't anyone carry a roll of duct tape and a few good-sized hose clamps any more, as part of their emergency kit? If it'll work for an emergency repair on a radiator hose, it should certainly work on a boost hose. ![]() |
Author: | corghnck [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:31 am ] |
Post subject: | Duct tape |
Yeo Duct Tape sounds good ..... but why should my jeep EVER break down??? I wonder if the duct tape would stand up to the forces on that hose? I lost yes lost the hose clamp for one end of the new hose ( where I live you dont just run down to the local parts store closest one is 25 miles and they dont stay open that late......) I removed the front skid plate looking for the hose clamp did not find it getting dark so I put the one clamp on the CCV end and just stuck the other on the radiator end and fired the jeep up started out teh driveway and it sucked the unclamped end off....guess it would have to be 150 MPH duct tape. But thanks for reminding me to get some more duct tape as the wife used mine up last winter on the leaky windows. I am still thinking of removing all axhaust from the turbo and getting fresh air only..... |
Author: | kccrd [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:59 am ] |
Post subject: | |
I tried the duct tape and it did not last very long had to replace the driver side hose. My mechanic looked at my hose and also told me I had the correct MB clamp on so just to replace the hose $79 later all is back to normal I guess the boost hose clamps are special and not just those round clamps used elswhere they will not pinch the hose and put very even pressure on all points of the hose to get a better grip on what you are clamping to. |
Author: | JL Rockies [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 9:46 am ] |
Post subject: | |
While I was attending LOST ECS up at Windrock in TN, I started hearing a bunch of wooshing under the hood and had no power uphill. A friend on the trail had a reader and it came back P0299. I checked all the hoses and could not find anything wrong so I cleared the code and continued along the trail. By the end of the day, the code came back this time is was P0299 and P0401. I drove home 13.5 hrs with the heat on because the engine was running very hot when I went above 55 mph. The dealer in Ft Lauderdale inspected and told me the EGR valve needed to be replaced. I am going to replace it myself and it would be great if someone on here who did the job would tell me if they replaced the gasket as well. P.S. I had 62K on the ODO when I got the CEL. |
Author: | kccrd [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:10 am ] |
Post subject: | |
There is a thread on here right now about another guy who is replacing his egr and I think he has some pictures to go with the thread. Plus they talk about the gasket. |
Author: | kccrd [ Thu Aug 28, 2008 11:15 am ] |
Post subject: | |
That whooshing sound could be one of your boost hoses. Check the drivers side just below where it is clamped on to the intercooler mine split a few inches from the clamp on the bottom side where it starts to go down below the air conditioning line. I lots a lot of power and it made a whole bunch of sucking noise or whoosh when I got into boost from the turbo charger. |
Author: | retmil46 [ Fri Aug 29, 2008 10:53 pm ] |
Post subject: | Re: Duct tape |
corghnck wrote: Yeo Duct Tape sounds good ..... but why should my jeep EVER break down???
I wonder if the duct tape would stand up to the forces on that hose? I lost yes lost the hose clamp for one end of the new hose ( where I live you dont just run down to the local parts store closest one is 25 miles and they dont stay open that late......) I removed the front skid plate looking for the hose clamp did not find it getting dark so I put the one clamp on the CCV end and just stuck the other on the radiator end and fired the jeep up started out teh driveway and it sucked the unclamped end off....guess it would have to be 150 MPH duct tape. But thanks for reminding me to get some more duct tape as the wife used mine up last winter on the leaky windows. I am still thinking of removing all axhaust from the turbo and getting fresh air only..... Say you get a split sonewhere along the length of the hose. Wrap the duct tape several layers thick around the circumference of the hose covering the split area. Then take the spare hose clamps and install them on the hose, directly on top of the duct tape covering the split, and tighten them down snug. Duct tape privides the seal, and the hose clamps provide backing to keep the duct tape from blowing off. Drove back home over 50 miles one time with just such a temporary fix to the upper radiator hose on my old '87 Subaru. "but why should my Jeep EVER break down?" - ask Mr Murphy. For that matter, Jeeps have something of a long-established reputation for needing higher than normal levels of maintenance. |
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