Timing belt

bigugly · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2008 6:46 pm

Has anyone ignored the 100,000 mile timing belt service?

I have 87,000 miles on my 06 CRD and was wondering if I could get by with pushing that belt replacement out a while.

Also, does anyone know the cost to have it changed?

widowmaker · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2008 7:01 pm

I'm at 97,000 and it is in the shop now for a replacement on monday. I'll let you know the price.

naturist · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2008 8:43 pm

Given the consequences of the timing belt breaking on a necessarily interference engine like any diesel, I wouldn't risk it if I were you. New engines because the valves slammed into the pistons, broke off, pounded crap out of the head, holed the pistons after bending the rods, and scored the block too deeply to rebore suggest that doing so is a bad idea. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to what a new engine would cost? My money is on $5,000.

nalu · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:14 pm

I am at 112,000 and haven't changed mine. I know I should, but have a few other things to fix first. Anybody else have this much mileage yet? It seems like every post mentions 25k to 65k at the most. Surely I'm wrong about this. Only problem I am currently having is filter head allowing air into system. Just have to bleed it a lot for now.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2008 9:17 pm

I think the recommended interval is 100k. So you're not obscenely overdue, but I wouldn't push my luck.

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:26 am

Those 100ks of change interval your talking about is in KILOMETERS. So you're at 160,000 kms now, just 60,000 overdue.

How safe do you feel now?

mackruss · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:24 am

Can anyone who has changed their timing belt explain what needs to be done and if any specialised tooling is required.

panda-52 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 7:27 am

nalu wrote:

I am at 112,000 and haven't changed mine. I know I should, but have a few other things to fix first. Anybody else have this much mileage yet? It seems like every post mentions 25k to 65k at the most. Surely I'm wrong about this. Only problem I am currently having is filter head allowing air into system. Just have to bleed it a lot for now.

Assuming you are talking in miles, I would be very concerned about delaying this service. For the US the interval is 100,000 miles. For those of us who have experience with broken timing belts or chains on an interference engine this represents the Achilles' heel of a diesel engine. When my '64 MB 190D jumped timing it cost me over a $1000 in parts (in 1975 dollars) to repair the damage. You can bet that the damage caused from a broken timing belt on a CRD will be extremely expensive. There is also the issue of dealer competence, it's going to be a stretch trusting the dealer to simply change the belt. I wouldn't want to be funding on the job training for them putting together a trashed engine. If it breaks it may in fact be cheaper to buy a crated replacement engine if you can find one.

Good luck, I would be interested in your mileage when it's replaced.

Uffe · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 8:38 am

panda-52 wrote:

Assuming you are talking in miles, I would be very concerned about delaying this service. For the US the interval is 100,000 miles.

Are you sure? Both the Aussie and Euro versions need a 100,000km change interval, that's 60,000 miles. Why should your belts last so much longer than ours? Same car, mind you.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:34 am

Can't answer why, but the manual lists 100k miles or 160k kilometers for the US CRD. I would also like to know why the export interval is shorter.

Metal Man · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:41 pm

Quote:

Given the consequences of the timing belt breaking on a necessarily interference engine like any diesel, I wouldn't risk it if I were you. New engines because the valves slammed into the pistons, broke off, pounded crap out of the head, holed the pistons after bending the rods, and scored the block too deeply to rebore suggest that doing so is a bad idea. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to what a new engine would cost? My money is on $5,000.

Before the CRD came out I sat in on the dealer training video and did have the little book that went with it. One of the features they mentioned was lifters designed to fail in case of valve contact. They made it sound as though possibly only the lifters would need to be changed.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:49 pm

Metal Man wrote:

Quote:

Given the consequences of the timing belt breaking on a necessarily interference engine like any diesel, I wouldn't risk it if I were you. New engines because the valves slammed into the pistons, broke off, pounded crap out of the head, holed the pistons after bending the rods, and scored the block too deeply to rebore suggest that doing so is a bad idea. Anybody want to hazard a guess as to what a new engine would cost? My money is on $5,000.

Before the CRD came out I sat in on the dealer training video and did have the little book that went with it. One of the features they mentioned was lifters designed to fail in case of valve contact. They made it sound as though possibly only the lifters would need to be changed.

yeah, sounds like a chain of destruction to me. if any thing makes contact, say bye bye

bdptp73 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:10 pm

I was told when I bought my CRD that the timing belt and the accessory belt were both made of kevlar. I was also told that the timing belt is 100K mile interval and the accessory was an 110K interval. Don't know how true this is but it's the info I was given by the service center where I bought it.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:16 pm

If the belt slips a couple teeth, you bend a few valves, if the belt breaks you generally bend 1/3 to 1/2 of the valves and trash a bunch of lifters. I have repaired a few VW heads that had timing belts break. One of the heads I fixed the lifter bore was damaged and I had to resleeve it with an aluminum sleeve and rebore it. Picking up a CRD with crashed valves would make a good project to get one cheap. I suspect most would pull the head and have a good machine shop fix it instead of dumping it cheap.

bigugly · **Posted:** Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:42 pm

I called the stealership today and they quoted $570 to replace the timing belt.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2008 12:19 pm

mackruss wrote:

Can anyone who has changed their timing belt explain what needs to be done and if any specialised tooling is required.

I've not done this particular engine but generally you rotate the engine to a specific position and then clamping tools/pins are used to lock the shafts in position while the belt is replaced. You can usually improvise the "special tools".

http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/D ... 1298&gid=7
http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/D ... 1299&gid=7
http://www.millerspecialtools.spx.com/D ... 1311&gid=7

widowmaker · **Posted:** Tue Sep 23, 2008 6:20 pm

I just picked up the jeep from having the timing belt changed. I had an independent shop that understands diesels do the work for 650.00. The dealer charged 700.00, but when I was inquiring, the service manager kept trying to inform me that I did not need to do a timing belt because jeeps don't have them. hehe

I had 97000 miles on the jeep and the belt looked good. The teeth were worn a little and there was plenty of dust inside the housing from the worn belt, but no frays otherwise.

CHessMaster · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:41 am

Metal Man wrote:

Before the CRD came out I sat in on the dealer training video and did have the little book that went with it. One of the features they mentioned was lifters designed to fail in case of valve contact. They made it sound as though possibly only the lifters would need to be changed.

FYI, It's not the lifters, but the rocker arms. The manual says they're made to break when the valves come in contact with the piston if the timing belt should fail. Sounds like it would save the valve(s) from severe bending and damaging the engine (pistons/head) really bad.

I don't think I would like to be the first one to try this feature out though. If anyone has good/bad luck with this, be sure to let us all know.

CHessMaster · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 12:46 am

widowmaker wrote:

I had 97000 miles on the jeep and the belt looked good. The teeth were worn a little and there was plenty of dust inside the housing from the worn belt, but no frays otherwise.

Did you have the timing gears and/or the water pump changed while they were in there?
Was there any other miscellaneous items they suggested to be changed with the job (tensioner, idler, etc.)?

widowmaker · **Posted:** Wed Sep 24, 2008 4:03 am

Just the belt was done Chess. My mechanic suggested doing the water pump while he was in there, but when he tried to order the pump there were no pumps to be found in the USA. He also said it was the most expensive timing belt he has ever purchased.

On a side note just for you Chess. When I went to pick it up, he told me that he fixed that MAF sensor for me and locked the plug down...I should'nt have any more problems with it falling off. LOL
That is the first time the MAF has been plugged in since it fell out 80,000 miles ago. Amazingly, the EGR worked and it was not clogged up. I quickly unplugged it.

You are da man chess.

Timing belt

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