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 Post subject: Bad tie rods, steering rack.... $1100?? *FIXED*
PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:30 pm 
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Hello,

I dropped off my CRD at the local shop this am to get my brakes replaced and told that my steering feels kinda "loose".
They just called me and told me my ?tie rods? were bad and they would have to replace the whole steering rack; if I understood that right, I might be
mixing up some terms. They also said that parts and labour would be $1100 and that it would take 6 hours for them to install that thing.

I remember reading something on here about some people having to get new steering racks. Now my question, what is that? Is this normal? How much should it cost? Can I still drive it? (Technician said he wouldnt recommend dricing it anymore)

Thanks,
Daniel

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Last edited by Endurance on Tue Nov 11, 2008 8:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Bad tie rods, steering rack.... $1100??
PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 5:38 pm 
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Endurance wrote:
Hello,

I dropped off my CRD at the local shop this am to get my brakes replaced and told that my steering feels kinda "loose".
They just called me and told me my ?tie rods? were bad and they would have to replace the whole steering rack; if I understood that right, I might be
mixing up some terms. They also said that parts and labour would be $1100 and that it would take 6 hours for them to install that thing.

I remember reading something on here about some people having to get new steering racks. Now my question, what is that? Is this normal? How much should it cost? Can I still drive it? (Technician said he wouldnt recommend dricing it anymore)

Thanks,
Daniel
By the book the time required to replace a rack&pinion in a KJ is about 8-12 hours,by the book you need to remove the front diff also.

Are the inner or outer tie rods bad? If it's the outer you do not need to replace the rack,if it's the inners you can also buy those seperatly but they are not ment to be replaced by themselfs on a KJ.


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 Post subject: Re: Bad tie rods, steering rack.... $1100??
PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:46 pm 
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Endurance wrote:
Hello,

I dropped off my CRD at the local shop this am to get my brakes replaced and told that my steering feels kinda "loose".
They just called me and told me my ?tie rods? were bad and they would have to replace the whole steering rack; if I understood that right, I might be
mixing up some terms. They also said that parts and labour would be $1100 and that it would take 6 hours for them to install that thing.

I remember reading something on here about some people having to get new steering racks. Now my question, what is that? Is this normal? How much should it cost? Can I still drive it? (Technician said he wouldnt recommend dricing it anymore)

Thanks,
Daniel


You are being ripped off, Inner tie rod ends cost $30 apiece and outer are $28 at Rock Auto. Look them up here, they just screw on and very common for today rack and pinon steering.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php

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 Post subject: Monroe Muffler in Disguiss?
PostPosted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 6:14 am 
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I would say a second opinion is needed. My son went ot Monroe Muffler for an inspection. They failed him and gave him a $1800 estimate. Went to another garage and got it fixed for $300.

I have become so untrusting of garages I do not have references or personal experience with (and for good reason)

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 Post subject: If the rack don't bleed....
PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 10:15 pm 
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....chances are it is OK. I have replaced both inner and outer tie rod over the years but rarely a rack (except in Audi 5000s they used a weird oil).
Most of the time if the rack has a leak it is due to bean counter "O" rings instead of quality (yep Audi used junk "O" rings).
Most rack rebuilders use the quality seals, bushings, and "O"rings when the rebuild.
All major city's have shops that sell and stock rebuilt steering racks.
I have seen several stripped '02 KJ Bone Yard gassers with the steering rack still there.

Get a dial indicator from Harbor Freight, Pull the inner rack boot back and attach the magnet to the rod and the probe to the end, have an assistant rock the wheel back and forth, check for play, no play no problem.
To check the outer use a large pair of channel locks, place one jaw on the end of the stud that goes through the steering arm and the other on the cup. If you can squeeze the Channel locks, you got a bad outer tie rod end.

Sounds like they are giving you a little BS.

Did these guys used to work for Wall Street?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 12, 2008 11:25 am 
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Thanks for all the input guys! I will hit up another shop on monday and see what they say.

@warp2diesel

I dont know if they do or not but the technician told me they could do pretty much whatever they felt like, if it doesnt work out the government comes in and bails them out.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Oct 13, 2008 8:43 pm 
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Just got back from picking it up from another shop to get a second opinion. Guess what they said..... they said that everything was perfectly fine with my tie rods and my steering rack in general. It was a little out of alignment though. Who should I believe?

Another thing that I have noticed is something black on the bottom half of both rubber boots that enclose the tie rods. I guess its oil or fluid, but its kinda dry and not wet. Any ideas?

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Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
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ORM&EHM with great success!
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 Post subject: First of all...report the other garage to the BBB.
PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 7:27 am 
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I called Monroe muffler after they said the tie rods needed changing on a car my wife was selling. The one they recommended with replaced two months earlier by the Dodge Dealer. The manager justified the judgment call but became a bit distressed when I asked how the regional office would react if they heard of "his judgment" Lucky for you that you checked. How many unsuspecting motorists just sadly shake their heads and say ok to things like that.

If you didn't notice anything...just keep your eye on it over the next few months.

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 Post subject: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 8:58 am 
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Rip offs are good news filler for slow news days.

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 Post subject: Re: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 3:22 pm 
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warp2diesel wrote:
Rip offs are good news filler for slow news days.


Yeah, it never hurts to keep the crooked shops guessing when they'll get caught.

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 Post subject: Re: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 10:44 am 
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When I worked as a tech at a Mitsu dealer there was one guy in the shop
that I nicknamed Precious Roy (Sifl & Olly ref). Man, that guy new how to
sell a job.
I was too honest and soon realized I would never survive in that buisness.

I got in trouble for "refurbishing" an old part rather than selling a new one.
The guy was gonna walk away because the new part was too expensive
and he couldn't afford it!
I figured I was still bringing some money into the shop rather than being a
waste of time.
I charged the guy only for actual labor which was 0.8 hrs.

Working flat-rate sucks!
Especially what you're an honest tech!

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 Post subject: Re: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 6:57 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:
When I worked as a tech at a Mitsu dealer there was one guy in the shop
that I nicknamed Precious Roy (Sifl & Olly ref). Man, that guy new how to
sell a job.
I was too honest and soon realized I would never survive in that buisness.

I got in trouble for "refurbishing" an old part rather than selling a new one.
The guy was gonna walk away because the new part was too expensive
and he couldn't afford it!
I figured I was still bringing some money into the shop rather than being a
waste of time.
I charged the guy only for actual labor which was 0.8 hrs.

Working flat-rate sucks!
Especially what you're an honest tech!


Yep you want to help those who need it and those who have it shaft you.

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Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
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 Post subject: Re: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Wed Oct 15, 2008 8:24 pm 
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flash7210 wrote:
When I worked as a tech at a Mitsu dealer there was one guy in the shop
that I nicknamed Precious Roy (Sifl & Olly ref). Man, that guy new how to
sell a job.
I was too honest and soon realized I would never survive in that buisness.

I got in trouble for "refurbishing" an old part rather than selling a new one.
The guy was gonna walk away because the new part was too expensive
and he couldn't afford it!
I figured I was still bringing some money into the shop rather than being a
waste of time.
I charged the guy only for actual labor which was 0.8 hrs.

Working flat-rate sucks!
Especially what you're an honest tech!


Agreed, honesty kills a lot of that type of business.

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 Post subject: Re: Send this link to your local TV stations
PostPosted: Thu Oct 16, 2008 5:33 am 
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flash7210 wrote:
When I worked as a tech at a Mitsu dealer there was one guy in the shop
that I nicknamed Precious Roy (Sifl & Olly ref). Man, that guy new how to
sell a job.
I was too honest and soon realized I would never survive in that buisness.

I got in trouble for "refurbishing" an old part rather than selling a new one.
The guy was gonna walk away because the new part was too expensive
and he couldn't afford it!
I figured I was still bringing some money into the shop rather than being a
waste of time.
I charged the guy only for actual labor which was 0.8 hrs.

Working flat-rate sucks!
Especially what you're an honest tech!


I hear ya, that's why I left a position at VW after only 3 months...

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 12:46 am 
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Update:

After having 3 different shops look at it, including the dealership, I decided to replace the entire steering rack, at the dealership. They quoted me $1382 parts and labor. Its there now and should be done Thursday.

Although me and my family had some bad experience with the dealer in the past, I decided to let them do the job. The reason being that should something go wrong, I have more leverage to force them to fix it.

In the meantime I get to drive my dads 2006 Overland with the 5.7 HEMI. Wow, what a vehicle, what a piece of scheisse!! The only thing I enjoy is the extremely powerful engine and the quiet interior. Driving through town you can almost see the tank needle dropping, Im constantly thinking about where the next gas station is :-)

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2005 CRD Sport
Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's on MOAB's
ORM&EHM with great success!
TJM T17 Bumper, 50W KC HID's
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 Post subject: I will be curious how the ride feels once finished
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 7:10 am 
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Let us know if you can feel a difference? I am curious what made you decide to change it out. ie..what did you hear that said it was a good idea to invest?

Jim

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:56 am 
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Endurance wrote:
Update:

In the meantime I get to drive my dads 2006 Overland with the 5.7 HEMI. Wow, what a vehicle, what a piece of scheisse!! The only thing I enjoy is the extremely powerful engine and the quiet interior. Driving through town you can almost see the tank needle dropping, Im constantly thinking about where the next gas station is :-)


The car I learned to drive in was a 1951 Pontiac straight 8 with "three on the tree". My father quipped that the Indian on the front of that long pointy hood was looking for the next gas station.
Lewis

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 11:06 am 
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Endurance wrote:
Update:

After having 3 different shops look at it, including the dealership, I decided to replace the entire steering rack, at the dealership. They quoted me $1382 parts and labor. Its there now and should be done Thursday.

Although me and my family had some bad experience with the dealer in the past, I decided to let them do the job. The reason being that should something go wrong, I have more leverage to force them to fix it.

In the meantime I get to drive my dads 2006 Overland with the 5.7 HEMI. Wow, what a vehicle, what a piece of scheisse!! The only thing I enjoy is the extremely powerful engine and the quiet interior. Driving through town you can almost see the tank needle dropping, Im constantly thinking about where the next gas station is :-)



I just had my steering rack replaced, it ran $1,037 and some change. I must say though the steering feels better than it ever did in the past and I have owned the Jeep since it had 6 miles on it.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 8:19 pm 
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Endurance wrote:
Although me and my family had some bad experience with the dealer in the past, I decided to let them do the job. The reason being that should something go wrong, I have more leverage to force them to fix it.


Ha! Don't you wish. What makes you think that you have more leverage over them than any other shop?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Nov 05, 2008 10:18 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Endurance wrote:
Although me and my family had some bad experience with the dealer in the past, I decided to let them do the job. The reason being that should something go wrong, I have more leverage to force them to fix it.


Ha! Don't you wish. What makes you think that you have more leverage over them than any other shop?


Because we're in the system as quote VIP since my dad owns a large local business and bought two vehicles there.
Im pretty sure they're also scared of him because he raised extreme hell once or twice when his Jeep wasnt fixed on time.

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2005 CRD Sport
Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's on MOAB's
ORM&EHM with great success!
TJM T17 Bumper, 50W KC HID's
Image


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