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 Post subject: CCV Help..
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 4:15 am 
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I stripped my CCV to clean while i was soaking the MAP sensor and waiting for the soot to soften and need some help.

In the pic you can see the black rubber item that fits inside the puck on a spring. I'm not sure which way the rubber item must be fitted, as per the pic or the other way.

This a big ask i know and i don't expect anybody to go and remove their puck to inspect because you can damage the lid if not careful when removing.

Hopefully someone knows from having cleaned one themselves.

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Last edited by mackruss on Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 9:28 am 
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Looking at your picture and thinking about it :lol: it looks like you have it correct. It's there to allow pressure out but to close when there's a vacuum. Also the side that's up would not seal the round "output" part of the housing if you were to turn it over :D

Now my turn to ask :oops: Is there any obvious design flaw that could be worked around? And was it dirty enough to keep it from working? The round hole coming up from the lower part looks partially plugged with sludge.

Howdifficult was it to remove the cover :?:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:12 am 
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Joe Romas wrote:
Looking at your picture and thinking about it :lol: it looks like you have it correct. It's there to allow pressure out but to close when there's a vacuum. Also the side that's up would not seal the round "output" part of the housing if you were to turn it over :D

Now my turn to ask :oops: Is there any obvious design flaw that could be worked around? And was it dirty enough to keep it from working? The round hole coming up from the lower part looks partially plugged with sludge.

Howdifficult was it to remove the cover :?:


Was quite difficult but i sprayed some silicone first and then worked it off carefully using two thin screwdrivers.

Once you get inside you can see that the problem relates to a lack of filtering medium so i fitted a white pad as per the pic.

I then decided to try a pot scourer instead of the white pad which i've done now and will monitor the results. I fitted a piece of clear PVC hose to the puck for monitoring purposes. If the pot scourer traps the oil and the oil then runs back to the crankcase like it was designed to do i'll be happy.

I try and stay as stock as possible i know the Provent is still the answer but when i saw some of the installations where some of the guys had cut their engine cover to accomodate the hoses i thought i'd play around a bit with the puck.

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Last edited by mackruss on Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:14 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 11:42 am 
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mackruss wrote:
I try and stay as stock as possible i know the Provent is still the answer but when i saw some of the installations where some of the guys had cut their engine cover to accomodate the hoses i thought i'd play around a bit with the puck.


I'm not sure about the provent. Mine is setting in the garage as it started passing a lot of oil. The media was clogged up and it had only been on there for about 12k miles or less when I noticed it. Yes I had drained it a couple of times but that didn't help. I like your solution better, keep us posted :lol: It's cramped under the kj's hood but I had my provent installed without cutting anything but it was tye wrapped on by the TCM.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 2:06 pm 
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That rubber diaphragm in my previous posting, is it supposed to act as a pressure relief valve and if so how effective is it as i'm not sure if it would do that now after having stuffed a pot scourer into it.

There is the normal volume of vapour exiting at the moment so its not blocked and the clear pvc hose is still clean as a whistle.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:00 pm 
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I did the same thing that you have done to the puck but never fitted it onto the vehicle. I only had extra fine steel wool and was afraid of all the metal fibers getting into the engine. What did you use?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:14 pm 
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aandlwoods wrote:
I did the same thing that you have done to the puck but never fitted it onto the vehicle. I only had extra fine steel wool and was afraid of all the metal fibers getting into the engine. What did you use?



I put a gold pot scourer in, no messy bits coming off to cause any turbo damage and won't rust plus shouldn't clog up so that system to me is maintenance free especially if the oil drips back through the puck as it was designed to.

I also fitted a 90 bend with a small piece of clear hose angled slightly upwards which may assist any oil to drain back to the puck as per the pic.

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Last edited by mackruss on Mon Dec 22, 2008 12:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:39 pm 
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What is the white that is over top of it? I am probably going to test this option out too. I want something maintenance free as well. Is it a copper scrubber?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:27 am 
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aandlwoods wrote:
What is the white that is over top of it? I am probably going to test this option out too. I want something maintenance free as well. Is it a copper scrubber?


No the white filter you see in the pic i was going to use at first but i decided to use the pot scourer instead. The white filter pad will clog with oil and will need to be replaced often otherwise you may get a pressure build up in the crank and further problems from there.

Now you say that you have done the same as i did then you will know that trying to remove the cap off the puck was not easy.If you have to repeatably remove the cap to replace the white filter pad you may end up damaging the cap and having to replace the entire puck which we don't want to have to do.

The pot scourer will not absorb the oil but hopefully collect the oil in the vapour and hold it in suspension. When you shut her down overnight, that should give enough time for any oil to drain off the scourer and return to the crank where we want it to be.

That's my theory and i'm no engineer just applying the basics.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 2:14 pm 
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I popped the cap to the puck last night and put some copper scrubber in there. I dont like the clear hose because i think it gets hot and craps out but i cleaned the stock hose out well and i will post results in a few weeks.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 4:00 pm 
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aandlwoods wrote:
I popped the cap to the puck last night and put some copper scrubber in there. I dont like the clear hose because i think it gets hot and craps out but i cleaned the stock hose out well and i will post results in a few weeks.


I've gone back to the EHM after removing the hose today and checking for oil, can't believe the amount of oil after only 800 miles since i did the mod.

This time i ran a longer hose almost to the rear diff so i don't get the ugly smellies, at least this way i know that there is nothing going through. We don't have emission tests so i guess this is it for me now.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:12 pm 
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I am going to change mine out soon. I checked after one day and it was bad.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 12:12 pm 
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[I'm not sure about the provent. Mine is setting in the garage as it started passing a lot of oil. The media was clogged up and it had only been on there for about 12k miles or less when I noticed it.

Anytime you want to part with that them Provent Joe Romas, let me know :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:00 pm 
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Yep - guess them 'dumb engineers' at DCJ\VM must have had some insider info, vis-a-vis not installing condensing media in that centrifugal oil-slingin'\vacuum-regulatin' puck - a quick look inside the valve-train cover might reveal some pot-scrubber-type mesh, had they thought it functional at that point.....................

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:11 pm 
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gmctd wrote:
Yep - guess them 'dumb engineers' at DCJ\VM must have had some insider info, vis-a-vis not installing condensing media in that centrifugal oil-slingin'\vacuum-regulatin' puck - a quick look inside the valve-train cover might reveal some pot-scrubber-type mesh, had they thought it functional at that point.....................


A screw on lid for the puck would be a better option. What i would then do is use the white type pad as originally planned to absorb the oil and replacement pads could be done without having to remove the bloody thing.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 1:54 pm 
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Reason a Provent-type oil-scrubber\condensing element was not installed is that it takes millions of bucks to get an emissions device approved by EPA - all these years later Ford is sanctioning Provent installation at dealer-level on their medium-duty engines, obviously helped by field-trials as tested by the after-market segment in Europe, incl Provent - the VW TDI crowd has been using them here far longer than the KJ CRD bunch - Racor also markets oil-scrubbers for crankcase emissions, increasingly required on heavy-duty class 18-wheeler engines previously exempt from EPA constraints

And, remember, the dirtier the air filter, the more Baro is reduced at the compressor inlet, which means the greater the 'draw' from the CCV puck - that's the purpose of the large spring-loaded diaphragm - the diaphragm closes the orifice under excess vacuum, leaving only that small rectangular aperture in the side of the port, limiting the blow-by effluent - any crankcase pressure above acceptable levels will push the diaphragm open, allowing greater outflow to the compressor - the calibrated spring and the diameter of the diaphragm sets the acceptable flowrate thru the puck - the snail-shape of the lower puck body creates the centrifugal slinger, which removes the denser component from the effluent blow-by gases, allowing drain-back into the valve-train area

Best to set up an external scrubber with as short as possible hosing (to prevent excess moisture buildup and possibility of winter freeze-up), with cannister drain-back to the crankcase area - winter-freeze-up is very possibly the snag in acquiring EPA approval - dunno how they manage that problem in Europe, where Provent is way more popular than here

A shortened Provent cannister, modified to replace the CCV puck on the engine cover would be best - we don't need the entire depth of the cannister for this small 4-banger - I just cannot yet figger how to section the CCV and the Provent together and achieve the proper sealing between the two thermo-pastic modules - any cemented join is gonna eventually crack somewhere and dump oil all over the engine - far as space limitation under the vanity shield, which was designed to appeal to the feminine segment, I pitched the one on my engine the week after we got the KJ - took that long to convince my son that it is unnecessary on a manly-man's Diesel engine..............................

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Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2008 2:59 pm 
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:D I installed a Provent at 12000 miles. and when I had the inspection done last Oct. my 2006 passed with flying colors.
no problem at all with the emissions test. Car runs great. Have a nice day. Jim


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