Fuel filter head

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:10 pm

So ok I guess it's my time to change the crap thing.

It starts up fine when cold but not when engine is hot. Seems that the filter head is leaking through a stupid plastic cap on top. I already changed the o-ring, no luck. Then fitted 2 o-rings, that didn't help.

Ordered a new filter head today..

LIBERTYinLIBERTY · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:23 pm

I would replace the plastic cap with a metal plug (from hardware store) and put teflon tape on the threads.

UFO · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 12:59 pm

That's pretty funny - the US filter head is the real piece of crap. You have a Racor, which we long to replace our piece of crap with...

chadhargis · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:05 pm

Wow!

Don't replace that sweet fuel head. That's a nice unit.

Just fix the leak.

If you want to trade with me, I'll be happy to give you my nearly new unit for an even swap trade. I'll even pay shipping.

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

One nice feature about the Racor and Stanadyne is that you can order just the part you need. No need to buy the whole thing as is the case with the OEM Bosch. It sounds as if he ordered just the head unit, the top aluminum piece that the filter attaches to. I thought the Euro versions prior to 05 had a lift pump, must be a bad leak if it's air in fuel with a lift pump. I could be mistaken.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 1:25 pm

He that's interesting, you can order spare parts for this thing? Yes I only ordered the aluminium part where the fuel filter screws on to.

My MOPAR supplier wants $130 though...

No electronic lift pump on mine as far as I know, just the flimsy hand pump.

That's that other plastic thing you see in the pic, you unscrew it and then you pump until fuel comes out of the bleeder.

On mine fuel spils through that plastic cap in front of the pump and leaks along the plunger of the pump.

I guess its dead.

This Racor looks a lot like my unit...

Anybody know a part ref that may fit in my KJ?

Meaning filter only? Mopar one is $70 over here..

Ranger1 · **Joined:** Mon Oct 17, 2005 7:40 pm **Posts:** 1137

tonycrd wrote:

He that's interesting, you can order spare parts for this thing? Yes I only ordered the aluminium part where the fuel filter screws on to.

Through my MOPAR supplier though: $130...

No electronic lift pump on mine as far as I know, just the flimsy hand pump.

That's that other plastic thing you see in the pic, you unscrew it and then you pump until fuel comes out of the bleeder.

On mine fuel also spils through that plastic cap in front of the pump and leaks along the plunger of the pump.

I guess its dead.

$130 - sounds familiar. With Racor being an English company, I would think an aftermarket supplier could handle an R230 part for a little better pricing. If you can get someone to ship it, a complete Racor R245 is about $150 USD from blinefilter.com.

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:17 pm

Hmm, seems you guys are way ahead of me;

http://liberty.eurekaboy.com/racor.htm

LIBERTYinLIBERTY · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:19 pm

I just received on of these, and an extra filter. I will be installing it soon.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Perma-Cool/745089/10002/-1

Look at the price of the replacement filters!!!!!!!!!

tonycrd · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 2:42 pm

I guess I'll see if I can get a Racor R25 filter and try if that fits on the OEM stuff. ( since I just ordered a new filter head and changed the filter last week...)

Racor filters are only $20!

ChileanKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:31 pm

I have the racor in my 2004 2.8 CRD, may be i don't have the Variable turbo? may be I don't have 167HP !!! :shock:

do you have a "how to" to change the filter element?

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:32 pm

tonycrd wrote:

It starts up fine when cold but not when engine is hot.

Hard starting when hot is usually not a sign of an air leak. Air leaks are usually manifested as hard starts when cold after sitting all night letting the fuel drain back down the line, as well as sputtering and dieing when under hard acceleration, or immediately after accelerating. What you describe sounds like a bad check valve in the line. When a hot engine is shut down, the fuel in the IP and close to the engine will release vapor or even boil if hot enough, essentially causing a vapor lock. If there is no functioning check valve an air bubble develops in the line between the filter and IP. As it cools the bubble contracts and goes back into solution, so when cold it starts fine. Sometimes D1 winter diesel will cause these symptoms when the ambient environmental temperature is too warm also. I have also had this problem develop when I've added too much gasoline to my blends.

mackruss · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:34 pm

ChileanKJ wrote:

I have the racor in my 2004 2.8 CRD, may be i don't have the Variable turbo? may be I don't have 167HP !!! :shock:

do you have a "how to" to change the filter element?

We've got everything on this forum :wink:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=35702

ChileanKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 3:48 pm

I so that one, but its for the newer unit not the racor.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:15 pm

try this one
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?p=337794#337794

and note the comment about the bleeder valve - about 2 posts down.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2008 3:39 am

LIBERTYinLIBERTY wrote:

I just received on of these, and an extra filter. I will be installing it soon.

http://www.jegs.com/p/Perma-Cool/745089/10002/-1

Look at the price of the replacement filters!!!!!!!!!

That Permacool filter head will also work with a Cat 2 micron 1R-0750 filter - same thread size and pitch. I rigged one up as a secondary fuel filter, tystrapped sideways to the battery, many moons ago with a Cat filter on it. And last I checked, the Cat filters were the same price as the Permacool replacements.

LanduytG · **Joined:** Sun Dec 11, 2005 6:59 am **Posts:** 188

I just so happen to have the same Racor head along with a new R25P filter and bowel. First $60 can have it.

Greg

tonycrd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:37 am

nursecosmo wrote:

Hard starting when hot is usually not a sign of an air leak. Air leaks are usually manifested as hard starts when cold after sitting all night letting the fuel drain back down the line, as well as sputtering and dieing when under hard acceleration, or immediately after accelerating. What you describe sounds like a bad check valve in the line. When a hot engine is shut down, the fuel in the IP and close to the engine will release vapor or even boil if hot enough, essentially causing a vapor lock. If there is no functioning check valve an air bubble develops in the line between the filter and IP. As it cools the bubble contracts and goes back into solution, so when cold it starts fine. Sometimes D1 winter diesel will cause these symptoms when the ambient environmental temperature is too warm also. I have also had this problem develop when I've added too much gasoline to my blends.

Hmm, that's interesting...we'll see i guess, with the new fuel filter head we can at least eliminate the problem coming from that. A lot of 2.5's have had 'my' problem and most of them originated from a leaky fuel filter head.

IMO the plastic cap is warped, not closing good enough. If I put some pressure on the fuel with the little hand pump and unscrew the cap so it's back in its original position (I tightened it now up to a point were it's about to brake of) fuel bubbles out right away.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:37 am

LanduytG wrote:

I just so happen to have the same Racor head along with a new R25P filter and bowel. First $60 can have it.

Greg

'
Pm sent

tonycrd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 10, 2008 11:46 am

ATXKJ: the R25P is a 30 micron filter! You'd want to change that to R25S 2 micron.

Fuel filter head

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