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Oil dripping from the pipe under the turbo? UPDATE!!!!??
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=38472		 Page 1 of 2
Author:  painemann [ Sun Dec 21, 2008 8:10 pm ]
Post subject:  Oil dripping from the pipe under the turbo? UPDATE!!!!??
Well Just wanted to say that This is a great forum and my guess the best for the KJ's. I posted this in a different tread but I figured I would start my own.

I am new to the forum and have had my 05 CRD for a few months now. When I got it I checked it over well and didn't see any leaks at all. I do brake and chassis testing for the big three for a living and I consider my self somewhat capable of working on my own stuff. Anyway yesterday I had the Lib on the hoist to change the tires and melt all the caked on snow off and I noticed some oil wetness on a pipe on the turbo side of the car. I followed the pipe up and I notice that the bottom of the turbo is wet with oil. My first thought was "great my turbo blew a seal" but the more I read up on it and after seeing the pictures that were posted on the thread I am thinking (hoping) that it could be built up oil in the cold boost tube. What do you guys think?


http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/attachment. ... 1229805986
Author:  BlackLibertyCRD [ Sun Dec 21, 2008 11:45 pm ]
Post subject: 
It could be the banjo bolt copper washers leaking. It's a pain in the neck to see for you have to unbolt the coolant reservoir and move it out of the way. That it for the pressure line, the drain line is further away from the engine attaches underneath and is part hose. Best to clean it off and run and check again.
Author:  dgeist [ Mon Dec 22, 2008 10:39 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Oil drippingfrom the pipe under the turbo? I'm new here
painemann wrote:
Well Just wanted to say that This is a great forum and my guess the best for the KJ's. I posted this in a different tread but I figured I would start my own.

I am new to the forum and have had my 05 CRD for a few months now. When I got it I checked it over well and didn't see any leaks at all. I do brake and chassis testing for the big three for a living and I consider my self somewhat capable of working on my own stuff. Anyway yesterday I had the Lib on the hoist to change the tires and melt all the caked on snow off and I noticed some oil wetness on a pipe on the turbo side of the car. I followed the pipe up and I notice that the bottom of the turbo is wet with oil. My first thought was "great my turbo blew a seal" but the more I read up on it and after seeing the pictures that were posted on the thread I am thinking (hoping) that it could be built up oil in the cold boost tube. What do you guys think?


http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/attachment. ... 1229805986


Welcome to the forum and before you panic, are you doing anything with the CCV blow-by yet (provent filter or similar)? Before I installed mine, I took off the intercooler hoses to clean them and noticed a pool of oil on the bottom edge of the flange. It had simply condensed / collected there from the vapor coming out of the head and into the intake. It too was leaking all down the side of the engine and dripping just in front of the oil filter. I thought it was bad... In calm, I sprayed everything down with carb cleaner (the outside, at least), wiped out the oil on the inside and cleaned/reinstalled the hoses with the proper tension on the hose clamps. The leak stopped. Later I installed the ccv filter and now I have neither a leak around the hose nor a pool of oil inside the turbo.

Dan
Author:  painemann [ Wed Dec 24, 2008 12:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
thanks for the info, I hope it is just a leaky boost hose and not a bad seal in the turbo. I am going to try to get it in my shop this week sometime and clean it up and take the cold side boost hose off and see how dirty it is.
Author:  gmctd [ Wed Dec 24, 2008 5:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
A Diesel turbo will not have 'seals', as you are accustomed to

- gasser (patooie!) turbos require a shaft seal in the compressor to prevent high intake vacuum from aiding and abetting the slight pressure on the shaft, which would easily 'pull' the oil out
- Diesels develop no such vacuum on the intake side, so the seal is merely a labyrinthine centrifugal slinger type - Boost pressure assists by blowing any leakage back into the bearing\cartridge assembly

- both types have similar labyrinthine type sealing in the exhaust turbine side, which requires more lubricant than the compressor end, but with exception of a piston-ring type seal, preventing exhaust gases from entering the bearing area

So, on the compressor end you have filtered Boost-air aiding the seal - on the exhaust end there is a mechanical ring-seal to prevent hot gas entry, with abrasive soot and 'nuther stuff

No deteriorating rubber seals - any end-leak generally indicates extreme bearing\shaft wear, passing more oil than the system was designed to handle - usually requires new shaft and bearings, sometimes even new cartridge, if full-floating bearings cut a groove(s) in the housing
Author:  painemann [ Wed Dec 24, 2008 7:16 pm ]
Post subject:  Merry Christmas and thanks for the help.
good info there GMCTD, i haven't done much work with turbos. Well I hope its just the CCV and and easy fix, we will see. I figured this would be a more common problem and more people would chime in. Its not a whole lot of oil around it but its coming down the tube under the turbo and getting on the block. The dipstick still reads normal so with any luck its just the CCV deal.

THanks again for the help guys.

Merry Christmas!!!
Author:  gmctd [ Wed Dec 24, 2008 8:56 pm ]
Post subject: 
May be leaking outta the compressor housing, where CCV dumps all it's oil - could also simply be the drain-tube gasket is hardened, or was installed wrong - check the easy stuff, first - cold engine, clean the turbo with Autozone engine cleaner and rinse with hot water, which will quickly evaporate and let you get on with the search
Author:  DDom [ Thu Dec 25, 2008 4:41 pm ]
Post subject: 
gmctd wrote:
May be leaking outta the compressor housing, where CCV dumps all it's oil - could also simply be the drain-tube gasket is hardened, or was installed wrong - check the easy stuff, first - cold engine, clean the turbo with Autozone engine cleaner and rinse with hot water, which will quickly evaporate and let you get on with the search


is that drain tube seal at the engine block?? mine is weeping after turbo was replaced by DCX last FEB. it wasn't before.
Author:  gmctd [ Thu Dec 25, 2008 10:27 pm ]
Post subject: 
That would be the one where the drain attaches on the bottom of the cartridge - if other end is leaking, the drip would be at the block - but, Boost pressure can cause the compressor housing to leak where it joins to the cartridge - first step is cleaning the area of all previous drip-sign - cleanliness, besides being next to godliness, makes it easer to pinpoint the actual leak, eh..................
Author:  painemann [ Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:01 pm ]
Post subject: 
Ok well I took off the coolant reservoir and the air intake tube off the front side of the turbo and that is the side where the oil is coming from. The boost intake tube was clean but the CCV tube was full crud and my guess is that is where its coming from. Seeing as the air intake clamp was loose where connected to the turbo and its must just be coming out there. Here

Here is what concerns me now, I'm not sure what kind of oil was in the jeep when I bought when I bought it the oil was just changed and I checked to oil often to make sure it wasn't using any and it (keep in mind this was in the warm months on MI) wasn't. I just changed the oil and put the Rotella T 15w40, its been about 3k miles and I just checked the oil and it was at the (cold months) min mark. has anyone noticed something like this before? Do you think it could be because of the new oil, or maybe for some reason the CCV valve used more oil because of the intake being loose? I hope my turbine isn't damaged, I couldn't get down there to look at it because I was pressed for time. Now that it is cold here in MI I plug the jeep in for the morning start but I don't have access to a plug at work. So when I leave work I would start it and let it warm up for 15min before I left. Now I hear that its better to just start it up and take it easy on it until it warms up to decrease blow-by while the rings are cold, and maybe that's where all my problems are coming from.

Thanks for the help!
Author:  warp2diesel [ Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:49 pm ]
Post subject:  Better use the Synthetic Rotella
Unless it says Synthetic, it is not Synthetic. I bought regular Rotella T 15W-40 when I first got my CRD and then found out it took Synthetic.
Author:  painemann [ Fri Jan 02, 2009 9:00 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Better use the Synthetic Rotella
warp2diesel wrote:
Unless it says Synthetic, it is not Synthetic. I bought regular Rotella T 15W-40 when I first got my CRD and then found out it took Synthetic.


It is the Synthetic, in the blue bottle...
Author:  painemann [ Sun Jan 04, 2009 10:36 am ]
Post subject: 
So, do you guys think that it is just the ccv?
Author:  painemann [ Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:32 pm ]
Post subject: 
Has anyone ever noticed that the air intake tube was loose? I wonder if someone who worked on it just left it loose or the clamp is bad.
Author:  warp2diesel [ Wed Jan 07, 2009 8:53 pm ]
Post subject:  RE: Oil drip
painemann wrote:
Has anyone ever noticed that the air intake tube was loose? I wonder if someone who worked on it just left it loose or the clamp is bad.


Worm gear hose clamps work their way into the hose over time and become loose. Add heating up, cooling down, vibration and your clamp will come loose. You are fighting a game of equilibrium to keep the clamp tight enough to not leak. Spring clamps stay tight, but are a pain to remove and install.
Author:  Uffe [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 4:00 am ]
Post subject:  Re: RE: Oil drip
warp2diesel wrote:
Worm gear hose clamps work their way into the hose over time and become loose. Add heating up, cooling down, vibration and your clamp will come loose. You are fighting a game of equilibrium to keep the clamp tight enough to not leak. Spring clamps stay tight, but are a pain to remove and install.


...and personally I hate spring clamps when they fail and spill all your coolant on your driveway the day you've just got your CRD!!!! ;)
Author:  Joe Romas [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 10:07 am ]
Post subject:  Several things here.
First as mentioned you used the wrong oil :(
Yes you need Rotella in the blue bottle and it's 5w-40 :lol:
Next, if you filled it to the top line you actually over filled it. When you change to the corect type oil let it drain completly then put in the EXACT amount called for. After running it, let it all drain back down, it takes quite a while maybe overnight, check the stick and make note of where "full" actually is. The top line is MAX and it will throw out the extra pretty quick :shock: Some think they were bent during installation but they all seem to be that way so think what you want :?
Oil in the charged air hoses is a problem and there are a couple ways of handling it. (Elephant hose or provent for two) :wink:
Deteriorting hoses are a result of the oil and there are improved ones both aftermarket and OEM :P
Get a Fomoto drain valve from Greg at Lubrication Specialists, it will save your pan threads and NEVER forget the copper washer 8)
I prefer spring clamps as they "self adjust". The only one I had a problem with was not put on right at the factory and the hose came off on the forth day I owned my 06 :cry: Not a clamp problem but a now laid off worker problem. All the clamps under the hood had a blue paint mark on them but this one so I would guess it was totally forgotten or didn't get the paint mark because it was not on correctly :?: Makes me wonder about the blue happy face on the ABS unit :roll:
Author:  painemann [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Several things here.
Joe Romas wrote:
First as mentioned you used the wrong oil :(
Yes you need Rotella in the blue bottle and it's 5w-40 :lol:
Next, if you filled it to the top line you actually over filled it. When you change to the corect type oil let it drain completly then put in the EXACT amount called for. After running it, let it all drain back down, it takes quite a while maybe overnight, check the stick and make note of where "full" actually is. The top line is MAX and it will throw out the extra pretty quick :shock: Some think they were bent during installation but they all seem to be that way so think what you want :?
Oil in the charged air hoses is a problem and there are a couple ways of handling it. (Elephant hose or provent for two) :wink:
Deteriorting hoses are a result of the oil and there are improved ones both aftermarket and OEM :P
Get a Fomoto drain valve from Greg at Lubrication Specialists, it will save your pan threads and NEVER forget the copper washer 8)
I prefer spring clamps as they "self adjust". The only one I had a problem with was not put on right at the factory and the hose came off on the forth day I owned my 06 :cry: Not a clamp problem but a now laid off worker problem. All the clamps under the hood had a blue paint mark on them but this one so I would guess it was totally forgotten or didn't get the paint mark because it was not on correctly :?: Makes me wonder about the blue happy face on the ABS unit :roll:


sorry, can i delete this blank post?
Author:  painemann [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:29 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Several things here.
Joe Romas wrote:
First as mentioned you used the wrong oil :(
Yes you need Rotella in the blue bottle and it's 5w-40 :lol:
Next, if you filled it to the top line you actually over filled it. When you change to the corect type oil let it drain completly then put in the EXACT amount called for. After running it, let it all drain back down, it takes quite a while maybe overnight, check the stick and make note of where "full" actually is. The top line is MAX and it will throw out the extra pretty quick :shock: Some think they were bent during installation but they all seem to be that way so think what you want :?
Oil in the charged air hoses is a problem and there are a couple ways of handling it. (Elephant hose or provent for two) :wink:
Deteriorting hoses are a result of the oil and there are improved ones both aftermarket and OEM :P
Get a Fomoto drain valve from Greg at Lubrication Specialists, it will save your pan threads and NEVER forget the copper washer 8)
I prefer spring clamps as they "self adjust". The only one I had a problem with was not put on right at the factory and the hose came off on the forth day I owned my 06 :cry: Not a clamp problem but a now laid off worker problem. All the clamps under the hood had a blue paint mark on them but this one so I would guess it was totally forgotten or didn't get the paint mark because it was not on correctly :?: Makes me wonder about the blue happy face on the ABS unit :roll:



I did use the5w40 Rotella in the blue bottle , sorry for the miscommunication. And I plan on doing the Elephant hose mod as soon as i get the time. I'm sure there is a write up on how to do that isn't there?
Author:  warp2diesel [ Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:37 pm ]
Post subject:  Elephant hose mod will drip oil onto the ground...
...Provent or other oil separator will separate the oil and let the blow by into the intake. GMCTD had the Elephant hose and converted to Provent when he got tired of marking the driveway.

I thought you did not want any oil leaks, right :)
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