Power loss....

griznhoney · **Posted:** Mon Jan 19, 2009 4:52 pm

So the wife calls me on her way to work this AM. Our 2005 with 30k on it has no power, CEL is on. She can't get the speed over 15mph and the gas pedal is mush. I go and pick her up, drive the Libby to the shop and indeed, no power, if you floor it, the engine will almost sputter out.
Any ideas??

Thanks!

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:41 pm

blown turbo hose - should still be under warranty.

next option would be clogged fuel filter - but I think the hose is more likely

griznhoney · **Posted:** Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:32 pm

Thanks, I will take a look. The fuel was the first to come to my mind. I appreciate your help!

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2009 2:12 am

Unless you are spitting a lot of black smoke, I would change the fuel filter before anything. If it still persists check the code(s) with a scanner.

griznhoney · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2009 10:13 pm

Well I inspected the turbo hose, looked okay to the naked eye. I took it into the local privately owned and very reputable shade tree, he hooked it up the crystal ball and it showed code#P0069 or MAP and BARO sensor. He cleaned the MAP and cleared the code and took it for a test drive, ran great.
Here is what my bill states:
"Code P0096-MAP BARO sensor correlation. Technician tested MAP and baro sensors and read live data, When vechicle is having issue above the MAP sensor reads 35 inches of vacuum and doesn't change under acceleration. Removed the air intake tube and inspected the MAF sensor, MAF was found to be dirty, cleaned MAF sensor and retested. Still same symptoms, researched condition and found no information of concern, checked for TSB's, none found. Talked to manufacturer for any computer issues related to the symptoms, none found. Could resolve issue by turning off engine in drive, then restart in neutral. Vehicle would perform as normal. When performing normal, MAP vacuumm would rise under turbo boost. Technician believes the MAP is intermittently failing, but cannot prove the condition."

So I am back at square one with less $$. Any other ideas? Thanks for any help. I hate having a vehicle that only has 30k on it and can't take the dang blanged thing outta town without worrying...May as well have my old ford truck back!! Thanks again!!

Coal Cracker · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:51 pm

Ok,

mine did the same thing today, I was driving earlier in the day, and it was surging, losing power, in three slumps, then went away. about two hours later , and two key cycles we we're climbing a hill and trying to pass a plow truck, it slumped, and i put the pedal to floor and can't get more that 30 mph

, no smoke, fuel filter is fine only 5k on it, fuel tank full, and turbo hoses are fine.
I got it to level ground, and while moving i put in neutral, cycled the key, turned off and restart, it ran great, i got on the highway, and pounded it to the floor, ran like a cat shot in the rear. first time i ever cursed the little tractor

No codes and no signs on the scanner. the only thing i did diffrent this time was drove through a deep puddle on the right side, I'll keep advised if anything new

tonycrd · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2009 7:30 pm

This is 'limp mode'? ( never had it so what do I know, maybe someone can chime in..)

When the MAP or boost sensor get's clogged up with gunk (EGR + oil residues) you get instant loss of power...

Time to do the SEGR and Provent mod.

Check this very good FAQ from our Aussie friends:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67074

Coal Cracker · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2009 8:07 pm

tonycrd wrote:

This is 'limp mode'? ( never had it so what do I know, maybe someone can chime in..)

When the MAP or boost sensor get's clogged up with gunk (EGR + oil residues) you get instant loss of power...

Time to do the SEGR and Provent mod.

Check this very good FAQ from our Aussie friends:

http://www.ausjeepoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67074

welll, that's why i'm baffled, i have segr and provent, and map was cleaned at last oil change, it's sealed and connector is connected, that's why this is a mystery to me.

dtempler · **Posted:** Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:25 pm

I had the limp mode problems for months but know I think I have finally solved it thanks to this forum. My fuel filter head was leaking at the fuel heater plug. I couldn't see the leak until I unplugged it and found that the connection was soaked in diesel and burnt (kind of scary). Apparently this is a common problem so may already have dealt with this. If not check yours by pulling the plug with the red and black wire. Let us know what you find, this seems to be such a common problem I will be surprised if yours is not leaking (unless you have already fixed yours).

I replaced mine with a newly designed mopar filter head yesterday (only took and hour max) and the so far the results are amazing. After all the things that it felt like were going wrong(TC, tranny, MAP sensor, EGR, etc) I was surprised and relieved that this ended up being the problem.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 29, 2009 1:03 pm

Well - I was going to give you a hard time about not reading - and then I realized the thread is unstuck and 17 pages back - that's probably a bit much if you didn't know it was there.

did it look like this?
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=24616&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=safety+warning+unplug+fuel+heater+element&start=0

and I'm glad the new head fixed it.

dtempler · **Posted:** Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:36 pm

Yeah, thanks ATXKJ for all your help. I was very much relieved and surprised by the difference it made. I never would have thought that the fuel head was the cause of all those problems. The codes and symptoms were all making me think TC, Trany, EGR valve, etc.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Jan 29, 2009 10:58 pm

Well Thanks for the compliment
but I just read the posts - other folks figured out the problems and the solutions
they helped me too - so I just try to point out what they found.

griznhoney · **Posted:** Sat Jan 31, 2009 1:12 am

So here is what I learned:

It took me a total of 20 minutes to pull the old MAP out and replace it with the new one. I purchased a new one, so I could have a clean replacement. I plan to exchange them about every 10k miles? I am amazed at the amount of crud that builds up on these things...I can't wait to do the before mentioned mods!!

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Sat Jan 31, 2009 1:26 am

griznhoney wrote:

....... I plan to exchange them about every 10k miles?

No, but you should plan to clean them every 5k miles.

kccrd · **Joined:** Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:35 pm **Posts:** 267

I just wipe mine off with a paper towel every oil change and it's like brand new I did the orm at 17,000 and I am at 99,000 now I have never had any change to the map sensor since the first cleaning. I just wipe it off for peace of mind.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Jan 31, 2009 11:32 am

The small yellow component in the cage is the thermistor for the MAT signal, which varies resistance with temperature change - down below that is a hole which is the small port for the pressure transducer, which is the MAP sensor - when cleaning the combination MAT\MAP sensor, also known in the vernacular as 'the Boost sensor', it behooves one to ensure that the pressure sensor port is clear of any blockage - a can of pressurized brake cleaner from 'zone is quite suitable for that task, utilizing the small red plastic tube to direct the flush..........................

cerich · **Posted:** Sat Jan 31, 2009 3:47 pm

Coal Cracker wrote:

Ok,

, fuel filter is fine only 5k on it,

did you remove it and actually check? If not how do you know? Milage isn't any indication of anything except that if you ALWAYS have gotten clean/good fuel you don't need to change it for another 20,000 miles (per service manua). Follow my point. I grew up with diesels and one thing I learnt is to ALWAYS have a spare fuel filter in the vehicle, in fact sometimes more than one.....

dtempler · **Posted:** Sun Feb 01, 2009 2:25 am

I agree with cerich. It still seems like a fuel problem. When I was having similar problems and I first started with cleaning my MAP and this produced no improvements. I had codes thrown that indicated MAP and MAF problems but it turned out to be air in the fuel system. Check for air in your fuel, leaky filter head, plugged filter etc. They are quick and easy to check and you'll either find the problem or at least rule it out.

Power loss....

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