Hi, I bought a 2005 CRD with the automatic. When first driven from cold it surges or for a better way to put it the engine cuts out.

At first I thought it was transmission related but the engine quits then starts pulling or accelerating. Usually two or three times before reaching 40 mph

I have taken it back to the dealership and they say there is nothing wrong. This has prompted me to have friends drive the vehicle to confirm the problem exists.

Please help, what should I do? Don.

Well you'll most likely have to duplicate the problem for the service rep. If you can't get it to do it while you have a service rep in the vehicle, then they'll most likely continue to tell you that there is nothing wrong with it.

Mine has done it from day one. It even stalled out the very first morning I backed it out of the garuge. Dealer will do nothing til it sets an CEL. Til then I will deal with it. I am in no hurry to do anything til the new ULS diesel is out in 2006. Then will see how the Jeep will run on that and then start complaining in it still does it.

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I’m video taping the problem, when I have taken to dealership they say they have not experienced the problem. And it runs fine until I refuel then it gradually starts stalling again.

I have called Conoco Phillips and they are already meeting the ultra low sulphur standard in their #2 diesel. I have tried Chevron as well, both fuels same problem.

On the high pressure side of the fuel filter a leak has started around the hose clamp. The dealership is going to replace that fuel line.

I have put approximately 2,500 miles on vehicle and three times to the dealership to get the surging-stalling fixed so far.

If the fuel line fixes the problem or if the dealership finds the problem I will post the solution. If you hear of the fix please post or email.

Sorry to hear of similar problems on an otherwise great vehicle. Don

Ouch. Where you at? Anyone in Michigan having any problems with any DC product needs to go to Genesee Valley Dodge in Flint Township. The GM there is a great person who LOVES to play in the mud with his Jeep. He will take care of what ever problems as his service dept. is Stellar.

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2005 Unlimited (LJ) Rubicon w/ 5.5" of total lift
Flat Fenders made by http://www.jpfaboffroad.com/

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin, 1759

Not really up to date on my Diesels here, but perhaps the TPS (throttle positioning sensor) is faulty? Might want to have that looked into as a first place to start. If you had a Trusted mechanic who you could take it to, i'd have them hook an OBDII scanner up to it (one of the ones that montiors everything on a vehicles engine) and see what the resistance is while the engine is running and compare that to what it should be.

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--Tim

-LOST #005816
-2003 KJ Sport
-3.7L V6
-235/70/16 Bridgestone Dueler A/T REVO'S
-Factory Fogs
-Sunroof
-Custom Mounted Mag Lite
-Jeep Stainless Steel Coffee Mug
-Autozone Rubber Floor Mats

I believe that I've had this happen one morning on my way to work. It happened just after I got on the road from my parking lot and was accelerating up to speed.

It hasn't happened again though...

i have had several codes for varying reasons. I have had a low boost at idle and faulty egr readings. I believe both are related to the original posters problems. The dealership i am at right now will install a new egr valve. it seems another crd may have had a similar problem since the service manager mentioned another person getting one installed the same day. the best way i can describe the problem is it seems like the tranny is not downshifting and causing the engine to bog down and sometimes stall. when it down not stall it surges and then the tranny breaks loose into low gear. that is what it seems like. i am not sure what the real cause of the problem is.

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited

I have this problem too. On the way out for work in the morning, mine will buck and kick and run sluggish for the first minute or so and then it's perfectly fine after that. I've never thought much of it because all engines are designed to run efficiently at over 200 degrees and until an engine gets to that point it's going to run less than perfect, no matter what it is. I think it's perfectly normal, and as long as it clears up and goes away as soon as the engine warms up, which it has so far, I'm not taking it to the dealer. Diesels require warm up and cool down periods...there's lots of info. on that in various diesel forums.

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2005 Stone White KJ Limited CRD 4x4
Off-Road Pkg
Trac-Lok
Emu 790s/948s
Skyjacker H7088s rear/Bilsteins front
15x7 Black Rock Lobos/31x10.50 Firestones
GDE HOT Tune + TCM Tune
Euro TC
CB radio
Thrush Turbo muffler
AEM DryFlow filter

This was a hot topic in the early part this year, while it was still spring/winter.
Couple things to remember,
Untill the engine is at operating temp, your fuel system in on cold start mode, this causes a "rich" mixture" to combat the cold engine, this rich mixture passing through a cold turbo will flag the sensor as rich and want to cut back the fuel supply.
Best thing is to let the engine warm up for a minuate in the AM to help prevent the problem. Unless your getting codes thrown at it, then it is time to go see the dealer.

I took delivery in May, ambient night temperatures in the 40* F range and I tried a kitchen timer to time the warm up before driving. I tried all the way to ten minutes with no change. It is still doing it with 55*-65*F low temps, I am hoping that Daimler Chrysler finds a fix before winter.

Thanks for the ideas I will share with the service manager. Don

Well it set the CEL last week and to the dealer it went. 3 codes
P101- Mass air flow singal range high
P0299- Turbo under boost
P0401- Mininum EGR flow

Fixes
Flash TSB 18-018-05, this fixed the morning RPM drops
Orded EGR valve- 3-4 week wait.

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Are these EGR Valves becoming a common problem? I had mine replaces under warranty about a month ago. Anyone know if we will have to keep replacing them every 5000 miles or has Jeep fixed the problem? I also know that the diesel will run fine without it. My dealer told me to keep driving it even with the Check Engine Light on. The Diesel service guy said that it was a useless piece of junk they put on all new diesels and that it would hurt the engine if I drove it 350,000 miles without the EGR working. Said the only thing it affects is a bit of boost preasure.

I hope not, but if so I may have a plan. Going to work, the Jeep was ok, but at lunch time it was sluggest as a snail. So I look in the service manual to see where the EGR valve was, so I could to try to disconnect it. Well the short of it is no way, too much junk in the way even with my small hands. So now on the the EGR mixing valve. It's easyer to get at so I disconnect it. Just took it for a spin around the block. Must say it drove like day one. Now will clear all codes/CEL in see what happens in a day or two.

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Where is the EGR Valve? I dont have a service manual yet.. Where do you get those from?

Here is a pic of the EGR mixing vale.
The EGR valve is right below that on the engine block.



Here is the page from service manual
http://home.comcast.net/~n3qik/jeep/egr.pdf

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Thanks!

Need to dissconnect BOTH EGR mixing valve and EGR valve. Seems the if the EGR valve opens, the exhaust gas has enought pressure to open the mixing valve. Found this out the hard way, last night coming home from work, the Jeep would not run at all under 2000 rpms. I thought it was going to stall out at one point. Disconnect both last night, took at short trip this morning and all seems fine.

Going by the overhead VIC, average MPG is up by .7 miles

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How did you get to the egr? I found it near impossible to get to it.

OK so if you disconnect EGR Valve and Mixer your check engine light will not coming on? I had mine replaced under warranty so I going to wait until I have a problem before disconnecting it. I can clear out of code with my autoxray but I was just wondering if diconnecting the valve will cause never ending codes.