LOST JEEPS :: View topic - Trans Fluid Flush Q?

thanks for the feedback it's just a convienece issue on my part not worth my time/effort to drop my skid and mess with it half a day. I'm pretty sure the trans fluid is just and exchange not dropping the pan so I'll probably just get it out of the way for now. seems like a lot of places (online)suggest that fluid exchage in between dropping the pan and changing the filter/sump.

I thought I remember reading someone saying that was bunk and only 1 machine still made to do it though....

FSM maintenance interval recommendations are related directly to usually-encountered driving habits and conditions -

Service intervals are based on pristine rural back-roads and highways with non-hazardous environmental conditions, such as dust and moisture - those intervals may get by with flush\change\flush procedures, with oil and filter change every other flush - those intervals are not good for big-city conditions, with high-volume traffic, traffic jams, constant construction, etc, where commute delays and breathing hazards are broadcast hourly

Dusty\dirty atf damages trans components - high-therm deteriorated atf damages trans components, whether clean or contaminated

Syn ATF is formulated to survive high heat conditions which will damage trans components, such as o-rings, seals, friction materials, so trans fluid should be changed more often if vehicle sees repeat traffic-jam conditions on daily basis due to excessive heat and excessive road dust stirred up by the excessive vehicles - if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often than recserv intervals

Off-roading creates excessively dusty\dirty (and watery muddy) conditions, so ATF should be checked more often than recserv intervals, and if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often

Hi, Blake. What exactly are you trying to determine? You say you're not a DIY guy, so is the price the big question?

As far as technical issues, yes, the filters should be changed and they're not expensive if you get them from moparpartsamerica or similar. The transmission is a PITA if you don't have a decent workspace and or good jacks/lift. I did mine myself, but I got dirtier than I wanted and it took longer than I wanted. I may pay someone to do that next time, but other than being awkward, it's not technically challenging.

If you're at all comfortable with a socket wrench, brake parts cleaner, and possibly a gasket scraper to remove the old silicone, then the rear diff is easy and will take 30 minutes max for all but the most unseasoned beginners.

The front diff is a little easier as you only have to remove the front skid, drain from the drain plug, and refil through the refil plug. There's no removeable diff cover like in the rear.

The x-fer case is the easiest of all. With a 10 mm allen wrench, a drain pan, new fluid, and a couple paper towells, you could probably do it in 10 minutes. That one can be done just laying alongside the jeep on the ground.

Dan

As far as technical issues, yes, the filters should be changed and they're not expensive if you get them from moparpartsamerica or similar. The transmission is a PITA if you don't have a decent workspace and or good jacks/lift. I did mine myself, but I got dirtier than I wanted and it took longer than I wanted. I may pay someone to do that next time, but other than being awkward, it's not technically challenging.

I looked at my fluid before taking it in today and looked clear on the dipstick not even RED? smelled sweet not burned. I'm gonna hold off on Trans til hopefully 60K and a Suncoast TC.

Author:	blake1827 [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:55 am ]
Post subject:	Trans Fluid Flush Q?
I'm not a DIY guy when it comes to fluid changes but had a couple questions before I take the CRD in for service @36K. Also I have full Mopar skids so I'm sure this would be even more of a headache to me then it's worth. A non-stealership shop has offer for "complete diesel 4x4 service" front & rear diff service, xfer case service & auto trans flush for $299. I'm just gonna make sure the use ATF+4 in the tranny and request synthetic in the diffs. I haven't done my diff's yet and know they should be done, but is it worth it to change the xfer case and trans fluid now and be good for another 60K? Also following the Suncoast threads it sounds like any time trans fluid is changed should also replace sump and filter right? Update: Called a stealership and was $260 for both diffs and xfer case. Another $240 for Auto Trans flush. Thanks.

Author:	dgeist [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 2:35 pm ]
Post subject:	So, what exactly are you wanting to know?
Hi, Blake. What exactly are you trying to determine? You say you're not a DIY guy, so is the price the big question? As far as technical issues, yes, the filters should be changed and they're not expensive if you get them from moparpartsamerica or similar. The transmission is a PITA if you don't have a decent workspace and or good jacks/lift. I did mine myself, but I got dirtier than I wanted and it took longer than I wanted. I may pay someone to do that next time, but other than being awkward, it's not technically challenging. If you're at all comfortable with a socket wrench, brake parts cleaner, and possibly a gasket scraper to remove the old silicone, then the rear diff is easy and will take 30 minutes max for all but the most unseasoned beginners. The front diff is a little easier as you only have to remove the front skid, drain from the drain plug, and refil through the refil plug. There's no removeable diff cover like in the rear. The x-fer case is the easiest of all. With a 10 mm allen wrench, a drain pan, new fluid, and a couple paper towells, you could probably do it in 10 minutes. That one can be done just laying alongside the jeep on the ground. Dan

Author:	blake1827 [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 2:53 pm ]
Post subject:
thanks for the feedback it's just a convienece issue on my part not worth my time/effort to drop my skid and mess with it half a day. I'm pretty sure the trans fluid is just and exchange not dropping the pan so I'll probably just get it out of the way for now. seems like a lot of places (online)suggest that fluid exchage in between dropping the pan and changing the filter/sump. I thought I remember reading someone saying that was bunk and only 1 machine still made to do it though....

Author:	dgeist [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 3:10 pm ]
Post subject:
blake1827 wrote: thanks for the feedback it's just a convienece issue on my part not worth my time/effort to drop my skid and mess with it half a day. I'm pretty sure the trans fluid is just and exchange not dropping the pan so I'll probably just get it out of the way for now. seems like a lot of places (online)suggest that fluid exchage in between dropping the pan and changing the filter/sump. I thought I remember reading someone saying that was bunk and only 1 machine still made to do it though.... I can't imagine why anyone would not change the filters if you're only doing it every couple years. If all you're doing is flushing and refilling the transmission, then you can do that with a oil pump that goes down the filler tube and a few minutes of your time. If they're not going to change the filters and the materials are about 25 bucks, then you have to wonder what labor they're charging for... If you DO drop the pan to change the filters, it's a good idea to suck the fluid out first with one of those pumps. Keeps things a LOT cleaner. Honesly, though ,the pan is just an aluminum held on by a series of bolts that are located around the perimeter. not rocket science. Putting a new RTV seal on it was the hardest part....my arms hurt and I'll get a caulk-tube style RTV next time.

Author:	gmctd [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 3:35 pm ]
Post subject:
FSM maintenance interval recommendations are related directly to usually-encountered driving habits and conditions - Service intervals are based on pristine rural back-roads and highways with non-hazardous environmental conditions, such as dust and moisture - those intervals may get by with flush\change\flush procedures, with oil and filter change every other flush - those intervals are not good for big-city conditions, with high-volume traffic, traffic jams, constant construction, etc, where commute delays and breathing hazards are broadcast hourly Dusty\dirty atf damages trans components - high-therm deteriorated atf damages trans components, whether clean or contaminated Syn ATF is formulated to survive high heat conditions which will damage trans components, such as o-rings, seals, friction materials, so trans fluid should be changed more often if vehicle sees repeat traffic-jam conditions on daily basis due to excessive heat and excessive road dust stirred up by the excessive vehicles - if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often than recserv intervals Off-roading creates excessively dusty\dirty (and watery muddy) conditions, so ATF should be checked more often than recserv intervals, and if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often

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Author:	tjkj2002 [ Fri Feb 27, 2009 9:21 pm ]
Post subject:
gmctd wrote: FSM maintenance interval recommendations are related directly to usually-encountered driving habits and conditions - Service intervals are based on pristine rural back-roads and highways with non-hazardous environmental conditions, such as dust and moisture - those intervals may get by with flush\change\flush procedures, with oil and filter change every other flush - those intervals are not good for big-city conditions, with high-volume traffic, traffic jams, constant construction, etc, where commute delays and breathing hazards are broadcast hourly Dusty\dirty atf damages trans components - high-therm deteriorated atf damages trans components, whether clean or contaminated Syn ATF is formulated to survive high heat conditions which will damage trans components, such as o-rings, seals, friction materials, so trans fluid should be changed more often if vehicle sees repeat traffic-jam conditions on daily basis due to excessive heat and excessive road dust stirred up by the excessive vehicles - if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often than recserv intervals Off-roading creates excessively dusty\dirty (and watery muddy) conditions, so ATF should be checked more often than recserv intervals, and if dark'n'dirty, change fluid'n'filters more often Agreed. I have my trans flushed every 15,000miles and change the filter every 30,000miles.

Author:	danoid [ Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:51 pm ]
Post subject:
If you're not towing or off-roading, don't bother with the trans. It's good to 100k. T-case and axles - change 'em. If you're changing the trans fluid, a vacuum job can't replace pulling the pan and having someone competent (and honest) looking at the stuff in the bottom. A visual inspection can tell you if there's excessive metal wear, dirt, or water contamination.

Author:	blake1827 [ Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:47 pm ]
Post subject:
I looked at my fluid before taking it in today and looked clear on the dipstick not even RED? smelled sweet not burned. I'm gonna hold off on Trans til hopefully 60K and a Suncoast TC. Shop changed front & rear diffs, and xfer case w/ BG synthetics. Shop owner was looking over motor and we talked diesels for a bit, and the mods done. Asked me if I'd looked @ Bank's stuff but to my knowledge nothing for our motor yet, he thought they were working on something. Gonna look @ Bank's site again I guess but pretty sure someone else would have stumbled across something already

Author:	KJ 119 [ Tue Mar 03, 2009 9:59 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: So, what exactly are you wanting to know?
dgeist wrote: Hi, Blake. What exactly are you trying to determine? You say you're not a DIY guy, so is the price the big question? As far as technical issues, yes, the filters should be changed and they're not expensive if you get them from moparpartsamerica or similar. The transmission is a PITA if you don't have a decent workspace and or good jacks/lift. I did mine myself, but I got dirtier than I wanted and it took longer than I wanted. I may pay someone to do that next time, but other than being awkward, it's not technically challenging. If you're at all comfortable with a socket wrench, brake parts cleaner, and possibly a gasket scraper to remove the old silicone, then the rear diff is easy and will take 30 minutes max for all but the most unseasoned beginners. The front diff is a little easier as you only have to remove the front skid, drain from the drain plug, and refil through the refil plug. There's no removeable diff cover like in the rear. The x-fer case is the easiest of all. With a 10 mm allen wrench, a drain pan, new fluid, and a couple paper towells, you could probably do it in 10 minutes. That one can be done just laying alongside the jeep on the ground. Dan Just the little kick in the rear that I needed.Thanks Dan.

Author:	grywlfbg [ Tue Mar 03, 2009 10:19 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: So, what exactly are you wanting to know?
dgeist wrote: As far as technical issues, yes, the filters should be changed and they're not expensive if you get them from moparpartsamerica or similar. The transmission is a PITA if you don't have a decent workspace and or good jacks/lift. I did mine myself, but I got dirtier than I wanted and it took longer than I wanted. I may pay someone to do that next time, but other than being awkward, it's not technically challenging. Ok, dumb question. I need to swap the xmission fluid so going to do the filters too (CRD has 60k on it - dealer changed everything around 30k as part of the various xmission recalls). I went to moparpartsamerica.com and looked at xmission maint parts. We have the 45rfe right? The site lists: Filter, liberty, internal, 42rle $14.63 Filter, liberty, internal, 45rfe $24.56 Filter, liberty, external $13.56 Do I need one internal and one external filter?

Author:	gmctd [ Wed Mar 04, 2009 12:50 am ]
Post subject:
You have the 5spd version, which is the 545RFE - it has two filters inside the oil pan, the main flat inlet filter and a small auxiliary screw-on filter in the return path from the oil cooler, designed to filter out the junk if the torque convertor fails - looks just like the main engine oil filter on the rear of the oilpan, but ~1/3rd size - replace them both

Author:	danoid [ Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:25 am ]
Post subject:
blake1827 wrote: I looked at my fluid before taking it in today and looked clear on the dipstick not even RED? smelled sweet not burned. I'm gonna hold off on Trans til hopefully 60K and a Suncoast TC. Excellent. The red dye goes away quickly. It has no performance benefit other than being red. Clear is fine, black is bad (burnt clutches), pink is bad (water ingestion).

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