The job took about 5 hours including getting materials to make a special tool to hold the hub to unscrew the fan mount. Please, someone tell me that you did the job in 20 minutes and the trick is...........

The symptom for failure was random chirping at idle and 1/2" of play at the end of the fan blade. Still seemed to work okay for cooling.

Good you responded to the chirping with checking clutch bearing play - usual result is fan\clutch separating from shaft, attempting to occupy same spot as radiator, even tho physics sez no two objects can occupy same spot at same time - that's not a 20min job, due to severe lack of real estate in that area (and entire engine bay, for that matter!) - would likely go unnoticed if alternator sheave was also singing it's dying song

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'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

Newtonian Physics sure.......

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Yeah, I know - but I'm not too fond of Newtonian Figs, either........................

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

5 hours to change the fan clutch .

Yes it is litterly a 10min job.I use a air hammer with a extra long blunt bit,a slight tap on the clutch nut(in a counter clockwise direction) and it is loose,turn off,replace clutch,thread back on,and tap again(clockwise direction) with the air hammer and it's tight.

Nice tip, but how did you get it out? Did you cut the fan shroud? I had to remove the front engine lifting bracket (left that off for next time), the top idler pulley (left handed threads), partially remove the fan shroud and separate the clutch from the fan, in position, so the two parts could come out separately. I’m not worried about the clutch nut any more since I now have a special tool for that.

Using an air-hammer\chisel tool on the clutch nut damages the water pump bearings, and could crack\shatter the aluminum housing - also, one must compare apples to apples, oranges to oranges, and CRD's to V6's (?) when quoting labor procedures'n'times

Alternate method is to use a Lysle\equiv spanner wrench on the large clutch nut, squeeze the serp belt to increase tension and resistance to the water-pump pulley\hub, use the impact hammer against the wrench handle in the direction of removal - the rapidly repeated small impacts usually breaks the nut free

_________________
'05 CRD Limited
Pricol EGT, Boost
GDE Hot '11; EDGE Trail switched
SEGR; Provent; Magnaflow;
Suncoast T\C, Transgo Tow'n'Go switch;
Cummins LP module, Fleetguard filter, Filterminder
2.5" Daystar f, OME r; Ranchos; K80767's, Al's lifted uppers
Rubicons, 2.55 Goodyears
Four in a row really makes it go

I have cut the fan shroud so that the top half can come out separately (also good for offroad serp belt changes).

Then i use a home made tool consisting of a battery tray hook/bolt.
The water pump pulley has holes in it. You stick the hook into one of these.
The other end of the battery tray hook is threaded. Whack a small bracket and nut on that and this goes onto the engine lift mount.

The fan 'nut' then comes off real easy with a big shifter. No rattle gun needed.

Total replacement time is 30mins.
First time round - an extra 30mins to fab up some brackets to reattach the top half of the shroud.

That sounds "Fan"tastic (get it). Could you post some pics of what you have done with the shroud and how it is kept in place for normal operation?

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

I'll second that! Love to see some photos. Will need to change our fan clutch soon.

Thanks,

DOC

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2005 KJ CRD Ltd Detroit TrueTrac Bilsteins G2 GDE "HOT" ECU GDE TCM "Tow Tune" "euro" TC SEGR Weeks Elbow New HG at 130K ARPs Clean CAT aFe Filter Magnaflow Exhaust EHM Cumminos In-Tank Lift Pump Hayden Fan Clutch Nylon Fan VH Enabled with GDE lower shutoff point Recalibrated Temp Gauge Tekonsha Prodigy Sears P-1 ZDDP

The water pump is driven by the timing belt. The pulley that the fan clutch is on is just an "idler" of sorts more or less, it's just attached to a bracket to put it in the right spot.

So, bludgeon the thing all you want to, isn't going to hurt anything (unless of course you break it...)

Anyone who has studied the timing belt change and/or changed their fan clutch knows that the fan mount is not the water pump - not a big deal, really, because there is still a bearing in the hub that you do not want to damage. I don't know if an impact chisel can damage the bearing, but it make sense to not take the chance unless reasonable alternatives fail.

I don't have pics on hand - but when i replace my viscous clutch i'll take some more pics.

The mod is easy - one of the guys on the Aussie jeep forum thought of it.

Basically, the shroud is held on with 4 screws. The first time round, you remove the fan/clutch and shroud together.
The shroud is then cut into two. Use a hacksaw at about the 10 and 2 o'clock positions (compared to the shroud's normal orientation.) I used two metal flat plate strips to connect the halves of the shroud together. You need 2 strips like 2 inches long and 4 small nuts/bolts. The shroud feels a bit floppy when assembled on its own, but when installed in the car it feels pretty rigid. Disassemble the shroud then install the bottom half in the car. Do up the two lower screws. Then chuck in the fan assy. Then the top half of the shroud goes on. Screw that into the radiator support (original screw location) and connect the two halves of the shroud together with the metal straps. Everything seems solid. The top half of the shroud also has a big plastic lip that goes into the radiator support framework. You can also jam a fat piece of rubber in there to tighten up any loose play in the whole shroud.

Easy mod - and makes replacing the acc belt/fan and cleaning the rad fins from the inside real easy.