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 Post subject: CRD not starting now!!!
PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 4:24 pm 
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Ok ive gone through many an issue with this jeep. I just changed out fuel filter for the umptein time this one installed by jeep dealer with new head on it. Man was that sucker on tight i wonder if it cracked the housing after they put it on? What else besides no fuel would cause this. Could the chip inside the key be damaged and not allowing it to start. It cranks over fine no ignition. Any else to check out? Was working fine then parked the jeep over night.


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PostPosted: Sun May 03, 2009 9:46 pm 
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The chip in the key - would normally allow it to start, run for about 10-15 secs and then turn off.

for Air in fuel - you should be able to pump the primer on the fuel head until the air's gone - pump feels solid and it should start.

drain some of the fuel into a glass jar and see if it looks contaminated, dirt or water.

ignition should be compression - so if it's hard to crank - that should be there.

check battery voltage - you have to have enough voltage to turn on the computer, that could be low even if there's enough current to crank the engine.

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:58 am 
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If the red security light in the instrument cluster comes on and stays on disconnect the battery for several minutes and try to restart. The problem may be the wireless module.
Lewis

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 Post subject: Its been raining alot in Utah as of late
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 4:41 pm 
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I looked at the fuel it doesnt seem to be as strong smell. Should i purchase some diesel use my outboard container and run direct into the filter? The security red light is interesting and it does glow when trying to start.


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 Post subject: Re: Its been raining alot in Utah as of late
PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 3:34 pm 
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CRDLIBERTY wrote:
I looked at the fuel it doesnt seem to be as strong smell. Should i purchase some diesel use my outboard container and run direct into the filter? The security red light is interesting and it does glow when trying to start.


My dealer went through several wireless modules recently replacing mine. Disconnect the positive terminal from the battery. I put the positive cable in contact with the ground connector to reduce time for the system to drain, leave for several minutes. Reconnect the positive terminal and start.
Lewis

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 Post subject: Ok been working on jeep
PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 9:58 pm 
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I did charge up the battery wow that sucker came up fast must be good battery. I purchased new inline fuel filter 3/8s and hooked up my outboard fuel lines and primer bulb been meaning to install on my boat but man it work sweet maybe we should redo our fuel system like this and mount bulb under the dash LOL. Whats strange no fuel seems to be in line going to fuel rail either using the stock primer assembly head or my outboard setup? Cant even get a sputter out jeep. Went to dealer and talked to manager they want to diagnose the problem at my coin. He did say man havent seen you in year like he expects me to take the jeep in for service, little does he know im unemployeed no cash comming in so i do all the maintance myself. Should i continue tryting to fix or call it quits and let them have at it. Right now it has 60k one owner 2005 wonder if 7 year 100k will take care of this.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 10:24 pm 
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Sounds just like air in the fuel head unit. Did it run after they put on your new fuel head unit with the new filter?


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 10:29 pm 
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7 year 100k was the extra purchase extended warranty - it'll take care of it.

if you didn't buy the extra - I think all 05's had 7/70 powertrain - may of may not cover it - depending on what they find.

No fuel in the line sounds like a leak somewhere - it's a vacuum system and it's easier to pump air than fuel

however pumping air too long can kill the injector pump.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2009 10:39 pm 
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Translating the post was a bit difficult, but I think he said that he did what I did one time for a fuel line problem: He connected the outlet-side hose from the filter directly to a fuel line from an outboard-motor tank. For anyone not familiar with boats, these tanks are poly or metal fuel cans with built-in fuel ports and they have a priming bulb in-line on the hose. So connecting that hose to the line that feeds the injection pump, means he has an "IV bottle" kind of fueling setup to get his truck running again. air in the fuel head is not part of the system anymore, this bypasses that temporarily.

But it still doesn't start, from what he is saying.

A couple things I know: Diesels are simple. Give them fuel and spin them fast enough, and they WILL FIRE. The spinning fast enough might be the problem, but if the battery is fully charged, probably not. Second thing, is the glow plugs. If they are all working, or even one or two operating, it SHOULD start. So that brings us back to fuel delivery. Are you SURE that the fuel is being taken when the engine spins? Make sure that the can is open, that sealed jug WILL implode from the suction, as well as making it difficult for the injection pump anyway. These are mechanical gear pumps on the supply side, they should pull almost always.

Engine codes? These engines have FAR too many options that put it into "limp mode" and who knows if the computer also has a disabled mode. Even with an improper key, it WILL START if it is going to. How long do you crank it for in each attempt?


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 8:07 am 
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Does the Liberty have a fuel disable switch/device for front end collisions? :evil:

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 Post subject: Hi thanks for you help
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 3:12 pm 
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Ok im going to call the tow truck later today to get the ball rolling. What i thought was strange the line going into the motor for fuel seems dry as bone! I would think after trying to prime for 10 starts there would be some fuel in there. Then if you remember i hooked up my outboard bulb kit with hoses and a new inline filter direct into this line going into the engine. Lets make sure ive got right fuel line its the one comming out top filter head and snakes around into the engine correct? Could there be a blockage in this line and is there a injector pump that may have run dry and is damaged from the low pressure since new.


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 Post subject: Dealer just towed jeep away
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 4:26 pm 
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I noticed he pulled it backwards onto the truck in Drive on autotranny is this ok? I would think rev or neutral would be ok.


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 Post subject: Re: Hi thanks for you help
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 6:58 pm 
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CRDLIBERTY wrote:
Ok im going to call the tow truck later today to get the ball rolling. What i thought was strange the line going into the motor for fuel seems dry as bone! I would think after trying to prime for 10 starts there would be some fuel in there. Then if you remember i hooked up my outboard bulb kit with hoses and a new inline filter direct into this line going into the engine. Lets make sure ive got right fuel line its the one comming out top filter head and snakes around into the engine correct? Could there be a blockage in this line and is there a injector pump that may have run dry and is damaged from the low pressure since new.


The injector pump is the fuel pump and if it is running and it is dry that can be a very expensive fix.

The line to the motor is on the motor side, the line from the tank is on the outside.

Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Did you try opening the bleeder valve at any point and pumping the pump on the filter head? If you did you should have gotten fuel and it would be unlikely that the line to the pump would be dry if you got fuel at the bleeder as they are both downstream from the filter.

I would not have loaded the vehical in drive but perhaps he had the transfer case in nuetral so then it would not have mattered.

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 Post subject: No he put the jeep in D and pulled it onto his tow truck
PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2009 7:08 pm 
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He says it wont hurt anything as the hydrolic pressure isnt working with the engine off. Im like why not put in neutral just a thought? He didnt touch the transercase. If fuel injector pump is bad that would be under warranty as per manual. There was a link to racor fuel head install and i went off there information on which line is fuel in and OUT. Brand new fuel filter installed by me yesterday still no go. I did bleed using the beeder screw, seems the fuel doesnt want to go into the line running into the engine.


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 Post subject: Re: No he put the jeep in D and pulled it onto his tow truck
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 2:22 pm 
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CRDLIBERTY wrote:
He says it wont hurt anything as the hydrolic pressure isnt working with the engine off. Im like why not put in neutral just a thought? He didnt touch the transercase. If fuel injector pump is bad that would be under warranty as per manual. There was a link to racor fuel head install and i went off there information on which line is fuel in and OUT. Brand new fuel filter installed by me yesterday still no go. I did bleed using the beeder screw, seems the fuel doesnt want to go into the line running into the engine.


Well, if you aren't getting fuel out the bleeder even if you are forcing it in on the input side from an alternate source or from the tank using the promer then you have a problem with the filter head or filter. Did it run before the filter change?

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 Post subject: The jeep wasnt running it didnt restart in my driveway
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 4:33 pm 
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I then thought we would try a new fuel filter as i know this is what the dealer would suggest. No change with new filter installed. Like i mentioned its the hose that routes from top filter head is this the out? Fluid comes out when i prime no problemo. Seems there is a restriction in line further towards the injectors. Is there a part called diesel injection pump? Any pictures of this part.


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 Post subject: UPDATE jeep dealer called back
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 5:20 pm 
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Crank Shaft position sensor wire damaged. My first thought was they screwed up doing the f37 recall? Autotranny shift cable was installed backwards i found out right after they did work year ago it left me stranded. They also left transmission harness unpluged and was throwing code high line pressure. Then they left autotranny fluid low! CHRYSLER BOUNTIFUL JEEP DEALER IN UTAH. $200 for a new wire harness or maybe i can splice it together? Anyone know if its easy to access harness?


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 Post subject: Jeep starts now yippie
PostPosted: Thu May 07, 2009 7:32 pm 
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Funny i feel like i got lucky or something hehe. Cost $110 for the diagnose fee HINKLEY dodge is a standup company recommend them! So the other dealer damaged the harness when they put everything back together blue wire inside the plug was bent. Instead of spending another $200 i had them just pry on the wire end and then glue into place and hope it stays. Any ideas if i can order a new plug end and splice in wires/shrinktape


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 Post subject: Re: Jeep starts now yippie
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 2:22 pm 
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CRDLIBERTY wrote:
Funny i feel like i got lucky or something hehe. Cost $110 for the diagnose fee HINKLEY dodge is a standup company recommend them! So the other dealer damaged the harness when they put everything back together blue wire inside the plug was bent. Instead of spending another $200 i had them just pry on the wire end and then glue into place and hope it stays. Any ideas if i can order a new plug end and splice in wires/shrinktape


why wouldn't you get the problem in writing and go after the dealer that screwed up?
I would at least try and then small claims if that didn't work. It's not like you have much to lose or not the time to do it.

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 Post subject: Re: Jeep starts now yippie
PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 8:57 pm 
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cerich wrote:
why wouldn't you get the problem in writing and go after the dealer that screwed up?
I would at least try and then small claims if that didn't work. It's not like you have much to lose or not the time to do it.


For the same reason I put in a intank lift pump for my air in fuel problem they couldn't duplicate :roll: It just ain't worth it trying to get a dealer to do what they don't want to do :cry:

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