Still Stalling.....

NJCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 9:37 am

Sorry if this has been covered but here goes.
Installed the SEGR and what a noticeable difference in power and drivability, thank you to the guys that took the time to build.
My problem still persists with stalling after sitting for 2-3 hours of driving, especially in the warm weather.
It's been my understanding that if the EGR is semi open or the EGR Float control valve isn't functioning properly that will cause the problem. That's what the dealership told me when they replaced the control valve, egr, throttle body, fuel filter assembly, pcm, and tcm. The dealership also replaced all sensors, boost, etc. (Thank god I purchased the extended)
The Jeep has run great and shortly after the new egr and float control valve were put on I went to a home made provent. So there should be no crap built up. I run fresh diesel, ultra low and even add the Diesel Clean or Lucas fuel treatment with each fill up.
So any ideas on why I still get the stall after parking for several hours?

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 11:19 am

Air leak in fuel line between tank and fuel manager and IP, also specific leak in fuel manager head at fuel heater plug or in pumping plunger - check there for wet fuel - DCJ has revised fuel manager head for replacement - should be warranty

NJCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:02 pm

The dealer replaced the whole fuel filter head/assembly. New Filter, etc. That was done 4 weeks ago. (Covered under warranty)
I just had a the Kennedy lift pump installed and the lines were re tested several times. Drove it for 100 miles... hard, which isn't much different from how I drive anyway. No leaks, no air. So...

Just miffed at what can be causing it. Once it stalls, I refire, rev the engine like I use to do on my Carborated 71 Charger and it works just fine.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 5:09 pm

It's either electrical or fuel - with no DTC, it has to be fuel related - how is the lift pump wired?

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Wed Jun 24, 2009 6:13 pm

Take a wrench for the bleed valve on the fuel filter with you and next time it acts up preform the bleding procedure and see if there's air in the filter. You could have an air leak before your lift pump. Most likely the plastic snap fittings back above the fuel tank. The pump for the Cummins powered Dodge is in the tank so the whole fuel system is under pressure.

Joe

NJCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jun 25, 2009 10:19 am

Wired per the instructions with the kit as well as the post here:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=39362

I will recheck this weekend as well as the other suggestion of bleeding after the stall.
As far as the bleeding, should I bleed once the truck stalls? Bleed, and then start up?
Sorry for sounding dumb, but what is IP? and DTC?

gmctd · **Posted:** Thu Jun 25, 2009 2:02 pm

Bleed first, then start at each extended stop, noting quantity of air expelled, if any

Injection Pump

Data Trouble Code

Data Link Connector

NJCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:37 am

Sorry to be a pain and sound dumb as I am not a mechanic, but for the bleeding procedure mentioned, do I shut the truck off when it's about to stall? Do I bleed with engine running?
I'm a little miffed that this is still happening with a lift pump and new fuel filter assembly courtesy of FIAT.
This is the new re deigned one.
Would a RACOR unit eliminate this problem?

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:25 pm

When the jeep has been sitting for an extended time, before starting it, pump your filter head plunger a few times. How many pumps does it take to get firm? If more than about 2, crack open the bleeder screw and let the pressurized air out. Close it and pump again, if still not firm, repeat above.

Once the plunger is firm and no more air comes out, start the jeep. Does it still stall?

Your symptoms sound exactly like when I couldn't get my bleed screw to seal right. After sitting, fuel would leak out, air in, and I'd get a stall. Restart would be rough but would usually catch. Bleeding it first worked every time. Eventually I took out the bleed screw, lapped the sealing surface smooth, and cranked it down. I don't touch it anymore because I have the lift pump.

05infernoCRDL · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 12:48 pm

i'll come from a different angle....

after just rebuilding my trans... the engine will stall if the TC isn't full of fluid... check your trans fluid levels

NJCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 1:56 pm

Thanks. Trans is filled. Fluid is nice and pink.
The plunger is firm, can't budge an inch. When I crack it open and bleed, I can get about 2 pumps and that it. It does have a new Kennedy lift pump so I'm just stumped.
It happens after sitting for an hour or 2 and the engine still has some heat in it. Start it up and it and start driving a few feet and it will stall. I restart; rev the engine a few times and it goes away. It's done this since new, but figured with a lift pump and the new filter assembly this would have been a thing of the past.
Was told by the dealer that it was the float control valve, they replaced that along with the egr, throttle body, tcm and a bunch of electronic control modules, boost, etc. :evil:

Just can't get this gremlin out. I'm contemplating the racor assembly but would hate to piss away more money if it is perhaps a trans issue.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:26 pm

OK, try this. After it's been sitting warm for a while, crank the engine and shut it off before you expect it to stall. See if the primer pump is firm.
Does that kennedy pump have a check valve in it that keeps pressure past it?
Do you have to drive a few feet for it to stall, or will it stall if left in park long enough?

NJCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jul 07, 2009 3:32 pm

It was about to stall last night. It has the feeling of something choking the motor down. I shut it off and put it in park. I popped the hood and pushed the plunger, firm. I cracked open the bleeder and squirted some diesel. Pumped twice and was firm. Fired up, didn't stall. I don't know about the check valve, I will look through my paper work when I get home. Thanks for your help

curtis · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 6:26 am

NJCRD wrote:

It was about to stall last night. It has the feeling of something choking the motor down. I shut it off and put it in park. I popped the hood and pushed the plunger, firm. I cracked open the bleeder and squirted some diesel. Pumped twice and was firm. Fired up, didn't stall. I don't know about the check valve, I will look through my paper work when I get home. Thanks for your help

Are you sure it is not a transmission issue? Next time you feel it choking the motor down and trying to stall, pop the trans into neutral and see if it does still stall. My CRD has been acting in a similar way for last 25,000 miles or so (58,000 on it now). After it sits a while, If I start it up and drive away without letting it idle for a minute it will load up, choke down and stall. As long as I start it and let it run for a minute or so, it works with no problems. That is just good practice anyway.

Just something else to look into.

NJCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 9:17 am

Curtis, that sounds so close to what I'm experiencing. I feel when it's about to stall I put it in neutral and rev the motor a few times.
Mine has been doing that for about the same amount of time as yours, perhaps more, I lost count.
And, unless they can duplicate it, the dealer has no idea of how to fix it.

gmctd · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:15 am

"Choking the motor down" applies more to the fuel\air intake system - loading the motor down, on the other hand, would be more applicable to the transmission\drivetrain, as when the TCC locks unexpectedly, or doesn't unlock, also just as unexpectedly, or the trans is stuck in two (or more) gears - either could be in the valve-body, with sticking or leaking solenoids, general valve-body leaks, etc

curtis · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 10:37 am

gmctd wrote:

"Choking the motor down" applies more to the fuel\air intake system - loading the motor down, on the other hand, would be more applicable to the transmission\drivetrain, as when the TCC locks unexpectedly, or doesn't unlock, also just as unexpectedly, or the trans is stuck in two (or more) gears - either could be in the valve-body, with sticking or leaking solenoids, general valve-body leaks, etc

In my case it is the trans "loading" up the motor to the point of staling. It really not a problem for me since I let my jeep run a bit before trying to drive off.
I suspect the problem is fluid draining out of the vavle body past a check vavle or something when the jeep sits for a while (over night in my case). Then when you start it the fluid gets pumped back in where it should be and away you go. The problem come in to effect when you try drive away before the full fluid pressure gets built back up, the band soleniods clamp down based on line pressure as usual but then moments later there is a surge of a much greater line pressure hits the sloenoid locking it in place.
Of course this is all theory, But I did stay in a Holiday inn express last night....

I think there is a TSB in this issue but I'm not positive I haven't found it yet. It must be related to what ever is different in the CRD version of the transmission because I haven't heard of the Gasser ones having this problem.

nursecosmo · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 3:38 pm

CATCRD wrote:

When the jeep has been sitting for an extended time, before starting it, pump your filter head plunger a few times. How many pumps does it take to get firm? If more than about 2, crack open the bleeder screw and let the pressurized air out. Close it and pump again, if still not firm, repeat above.

Once the plunger is firm and no more air comes out, start the jeep. Does it still stall?

Your symptoms sound exactly like when I couldn't get my bleed screw to seal right. After sitting, fuel would leak out, air in, and I'd get a stall. Restart would be rough but would usually catch. Bleeding it first worked every time. Eventually I took out the bleed screw, lapped the sealing surface smooth, and cranked it down. I don't touch it anymore because I have the lift pump.

NJCRD: did you try this?

How about this one?

curtis wrote:

In my case it is the trans "loading" up the motor to the point of staling. It really not a problem for me since I let my jeep run a bit before trying to drive off.

click23 · **Joined:** Thu May 11, 2006 9:22 am **Posts:** 309

Could this be as simple as TSB 21-007-06:

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The customer may experience an initial delayed shift engagement following an extended off (not running) period of time, generally after being parked overnight. The initial shift engagement may feel like a delay or slip when a transmission gear (reverse or drive) is first selected after engine start.
The customer may also experience a MIL illumination. Investigation may determine that the MIL is due to one or more of the following Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DIG's):
P0868 - Line Pressure Low. This DIG will be the most frequently occurring DTC for the delayed shift condition.
P0944 - Loss Of Hydraulic Pump Prime.
P0731 - Gear Ratio Error In 1st.
P0736 - Gear Ratio Error In Reverse.
P0841 - LR Pressure Switch Rationality.
P0876 - UD Pressure Switch Rationality.
The delayed engagement and MIL condition (DTC's) may be caused by a suspect transmission cooler return filter with a part number of 04799662AB . A suspect 04799662AB cooler return filter may cause the transmission sump filter to split at its plastic-to-metal crimp. If the transmission sump filter becomes split at the crimp, then one or more of the above DTC's may also occur.

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

Mine is stalling in all transmission positions, It will start and run, you can rev it up in N but when you let off the throttle it will go to idle speed and shut off.

Still Stalling.....

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