This is the first vehicle that I have had to deal with the HOAT type of coolant, and I am going to flush the system. I picked up the 4 gallons to cover the 13 quart requirement with some extra at Napa. The guy behind the counter said I only need half of that because I would do a half anti-freeze half water mixture, that does not sound right to me, but I wanted to make sure.

Thanks
Joe

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2005 Liberty CRD, 245/75R16, OME CRD Springs front, OME HD rear

The parts guy was correct.You will mix 50% distilled water and 50% HOAT coolant together then pour into your cooling system.So if you bought 4 gallons of HOAT coolant you have enough to make 8 gallons of the proper mix coolant.

I always buy the 1 gallon sized distilled water jugs at a supermarket,pour half into another container then fill the rest of the 1 gallon just up will HOAT coolant,then pour the other 1/2 gallon of distilled water into the HOAT coolant bottle that is now half full making 2 gallons of coolant.

Joe.

"Assuming" the parts guy knew what he was selling you was not already "premixed" he's correct Just be aware that some is already at a 50/50 ratio but it will clearly state that on the bottle. A 50/50 mixture gives you the best all around protection not just from freezing

Joe

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Make sure to remember the SCA. Some coolants have it already in it.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

I never buy premix, it insults me.

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2006 Pearl Green CRD
Magnaflow 2 1/2" Cat Back
KJ Extra Leg Room Brackets, Carter Lift Pump, V6 Airbox, ORM
Fuel cooler, Oil Separator, Progard 7
Gauges EGT Boost Trans Temp Oil Pres, Michelin LXT AT2 245 70 R16
7,000# Draw Tight hitch, PML EX Deep Trans Pan
Centrifuge, SunCoast, Transgo, RAM TCM, InMotion Stage 2
Wife's 99 TDI VW Beetle

The modern OAT/HOAT type coolants do not use SCA's and the addition of SCA's will cause problems. I recently flush/filled my Liberty CRD and my semi truck using ELC coolant. It has a 5yr/150000 mile life on my Jeep and a 600,000 mile life in my semi engine. Specifically stated to NOT add SCA. Not that it was "precharged" with SCA, it stated do not EVER add SCA. The coolants that use SCA's are the next level down.

ELC coolants from Delo, Shell, Cat, etc do a much better job of eliminating cavitation on sleeve liner walls than SCA coolants.
The primary cause of liner failures. Since the CRD in our Jeeps uses wet sleeved liners, the use of ELC is a better choice.

That being said, buying a premix has definate advantages. Not only is the water a distilled variety, but is also de-ionized.

A good read on these things can be found at www.kostusa.com They are a primary manufacturer of coolants in North America. Most of the name brands are just relabled Kost product. I used Final Charge ELC which is a Peak/Global product in both my Jeep and semi. They are a recommended product by most major fleet management publications. They are at www.finalcharge.com I got it at a reasonable price at my local Love's truck stop.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

De-Ionized water is highly corrosive.

Does that mean distilled water is too?

Distilled water is good to use.

...but the resultant water of a distillation process is also de-ionized.

...is an ionized water, such was salt water, non-corrosive then?

Hope you were kidding

Distilled water and deionized water are pretty much the same thing. Distilled water is the purest, but not by much. Deionized water is produced with exchange resins, which leave behind a few uncharged organics, but these have little to no effect on coolant life. Buy whichever is cheapest.

Ultra pure deionized water is corrosive, but the buffers in coolant render it harmless. DI water is usually acidic if exposed to air because of the formation of Carbonic acid. Just a little tiny bit of carbonate or other buffer will bring it back to neutral PH.

Do NOT put salt water in the cooling system unless you want a new motor, and radiator.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Better read the fine print. It still requires an extender added at 300,000 miles and they also suggest a coolant ph test. Still much better than the old stuff though.

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets

What is the normal interval for coolant change in a CRD?

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In this war of lines, so many have been crossed. Where will it all stop?

2006 Deep Beryl Green CRD Sport *SOLD 1/22/12*
Provent, V6 Airbox, Fumoto, Samcos, GDE ECO & TCM Tune, Euro JK TC, Magnaflow Catback
245/70/16 Destination A/T's
Boiler's Radiator Skid Plate
Jeepin' By Al 2.5 inch Adjust-A-Strut Lift, JBA Gen 4.5 UCA's (6/5/10)

I was. I was searching for the logic of how distilled water could be perfectly fine while deionized water is super corrosive.

Nursecosmo is all over this. For all intents and purposes, both are the same and if the processing was done precisely, no one would be able to tell the difference. There are enough additives in the anitfreeze to swamp the effects of anything residual in the DI water. The last thing I'd ever do would be to use the crap out of my tap (wells in mid-MI are very briny).

An argument could be made that any water (without preventative additives) is "corrosive." Water, having wondrous powers, will seek an equilibrium with its surroundings. Take copper pipes for example. When water flows through, it establishes an equilibrium in the copper where it actually dissolves a bit of it by converting it to Cu2+. Flowing in fresh water continually refreshes that equilibrium. Because of that, copper house pipes have finite lifetimes (~30 years, hot line usually croaks first) because they more or less got dissolved over all that time by the gazillions of gallons of water that flowed through them. If the water wasn't flowing, they'd probably outlast any of us.

The same process would take place to some degree with the iron and aluminum alloys of the engine if it wasn't for the antifreeze additives. Since it's a relatively closed system, once the equilibriums are established, there isn't a removal process taking place to continually drive it to one side or the other...neither dissolving additional engine material or redepositing it.

Sulfuric acid, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and high salt concentations (compare our vehicles in MI relative to those in AZ) are corrosive. In this context, the corrosivity of ultrapure water relative to DI or distilled water is essentially neglible.

Like nursecosmo said...buy whichever is cheapest.

Well.... that is true. I didn't elaborate about the extender (a whopping $28 ), since I figured it was a moot issue for most on this forum. I may put on 300,000 miles in two years on my semi, but I am probably not too far off if I say that most here will not put on that kind of miles on their CRD's. By then, they will have changed the coolant anyway because of time, not miles.

At least no monitoring of SCA's and adding as necessary like previous coolants.

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Environmentalist Green + Socialist Red = Facist Brown

2006 Liberty CRD, Frankenlift II, Al's A Arms, Moog LBJ's, GDE tune, Etechno GX3123 Glow plugs, Fumoto drain valve, Elephant hose CCV mod.

I thought somebody on here replaced a coolant resevoir and said it came with a packet of sca in the tank??? Thought it was Ranger1??

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2005 sport crd-SOLD No regrets