Window Regulator

linewarbr · **Posted:** Tue Jun 30, 2009 4:10 pm

Driving out of the plant yesterday, my left rear window slid down all on it's own. I guess it's a big boy now, hehhhhhh.

Anyone here ever replaced one of their window regulators? How big of a job is this?

I may just replace it with a hand-crank, since it's in the back.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:27 pm

I've replaced both my rear window regulators. It's easy, especially if you've done them before. I tape the window at about halfway up after I open the door up and everything is pretty accessible. There are two styles of regulator for my 2006. The newer one connects to the glass with a plastic clip and is about half the price of the older style. The old style uses the knob and pin style connector that chrysler has used for years. It is what mine requires and costs about $90. Either way the part includes the motor, rails, cables, etc. You might be able to find an aftermarket one for less at autozone or the like, but I wasn't able to.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 5:34 pm

I used Steiger Performance's replacement window carrier. Took about 2 hours and saved me mucho dinero. Now I can see why mechanics charge $100 an hour - I "made" $200 an hour last night doing this install. (Since the stealership quoted me $500 to replace both my regulator and window glass)

The link to the fix is below. Jon at Steiger also includes wonderfully detailed step-by-step instructions that see you through everything.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp13001.html

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 7:27 pm

I was wondering when the aftermarket would come up with a fix for the regulators. Thanks for the link.

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:07 pm

One of mine failed with stripped gears and the other went with the cables tangling around the spool and cutting it up.

***info corrected in post further down...

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:14 pm

Dealership here quoted me $273 P&L. They said no window replacement required based upon my VIN#.

Goglio704 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 08, 2009 8:25 pm

ChesterCRD wrote:

One of mine failed with stripped gears and the other went with the cables tangling around the spool and cutting it up.

Doesn't sound like the kit would have helped your scenarios. I've not had window problems and I hope it stays that way.

ribbon · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:48 pm

i think the regulator out of a 2002 is a little better and will work in the newer models. Please correct me if i am wrong.
I read it in a post but can't find it

ribbon · **Posted:** Thu Jul 09, 2009 2:58 pm

thats a good link. I will have to bookmark it.
I need it WHEN they fail. I am fairly certain they will too

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 1:44 pm

The Steiger kit is only good for 2005 MY and 2006's built before 3/16/06. On 3/16/06, DCX changed the design of the window bracket, carrier, and the glass. That is now all that the dealership seems to keep in stock or be able to order, so that's why mine would have needed all of that replaced. What is your build date, JL?

My window had one bracket at the bottom of the glass with one ball stud that mounts in the carrier with a retainer clip. The "worm", basically a long spring that the motor gears push up or down inside a tube, mounts into a threaded PLASTIC inch-long receiver in the carrier, which in turn moves up or down on a guide rail inside the door. This worm-to-carrier mounting point is where they commonly break, and Stieger's replacement carrier is either metal or a much stronger composite that resists heat and stress much better than stock.

Chester, unless you saw it for yourself, I would question the diagnosis you got. The way that mine broke, the threaded plastic part of the carrier broke completely away but still had enough roundness to it to stay on the worm. When I tried to motor down the window, that plastic piece was pulled into the tube and then got stuck, causing the gears of the motor to skip on the worm. If I had kept trying to lower it, I imagine I would have stripped the plastic teeth on the motor gear. It would be possible, however, that if that plastic piece had not stayed wrapped around the worm, that I could have motored it all the way out of the tube and had a big snaked-up thing inside the door panel when I took it off. That may have been what they described.

Also, I think if you have had a window repaired since that build date, it was most likely replaced with the newer design window, bracket, and carrier. Steiger's mod won't fix that one if it breaks. I had my right rear window fixed under warranty, and though I haven't asked I'm pretty sure that they did the full $500 replacement and billed Chrysler accordingly.

Stieger's site says he is working on a replacement carrier for the front as well, though I *knock knock* have not had any trouble with the fronts. They get used considerably more, what with the accessibility of drive-thru's and a dog that absolutely MUST hang her head out of the passenger window. . .

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Fri Jul 10, 2009 8:19 pm

Linewarbr, you're right. I checked my notes, the tangled cable on spool failure was the front window on my 2000 caravan.

The failures on the liberty back windows were broken gears (basically the worm gear issue you describe). The motor ran, but didn't drive anything. The second one the motor didn't run.

spyburn · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 9:41 pm

A couple of weeks ago my rear window on the passenger side dropped suddenly into the door a vanished. Took it to my mechanic who found out they've replace the regulator now and it requires new glass to match, but the part is on national backorder. I can expect to have my window held up with packing tape for a few more weeks. Tonight while the car was sitting in a parking lot the front passenger window dropped nto the door panel. While under warranty I had both the driver's side regulators replaced (and the driver's window is starting to act up again).

I'm no longer under warranty. Has anyone had any luck getting a dealership to replace these faulty regulators as if they were still under warranty? Just seems ridiculous that my "trail rated" jeep (which has never been off-road) is so danged fragile.

kdlewis1975 · **Posted:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 10:15 pm

...if in doubt, it doesn't hurt to check eBay.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/06-07-JE ... ccessories

...there are many others. Some will include the window with it. You could potentially get the old style if that is what is required.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 7:46 am

I'm telling you, the kit from Steiger is an easy fix for the back. If the motor still works when you push the switch, then it is doable. Check it out.

dritchie · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:18 pm

Man, reading this thread must have been bad MoJo for me. On my way up to Lowes, I noticed the read window was down, hit the up switch to the sound of grinding...DOH. This one has already been replaced once under warranty, ...but my warranty is up now.

Dave

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 12:42 pm

dritchie wrote:

Man, reading this thread must have been bad MoJo for me. On my way up to Lowes, I noticed the read window was down, hit the up switch to the sound of grinding...DOH. This one has already been replaced once under warranty, ...but my warranty is up now.

Dave

Find out from the dealer that did the warranty repair if they used the "ne style" or the "old style." If they did the old style, try the Steiger mod - not difficult to do, just make sure you notice the part about "ball stud position".

dritchie · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:38 pm

Ok, here is the carrier I pulled out, can someone tell me if this is the old or new style? I have a 2006 built in Jan. and have had the regulator replaced once.
Also, the worm gear (ie spring" is stuck in the plastic tubing...anyone have a trick to getting it out without destroying it? Motor wouldn't budge it. Thanks

Dave

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:06 pm

That is the one that I had, the Steiger kit will work. You will be replacing the white carrier that slides up and down on the bracket with a much stronger carrier.

There is supposed to be a little threaded cylinder on that white carrier, it breaks very easily. Mine had gotten pulled into the tube and stuck, causing the gear on the motor to click over the "worm". I had a time pulling mine out, till I thought to reconnect the motor and power it out. I did that after I removed the tube from the aluminum window bracket.

Go to the Steiger website and open the pdf with the instructions for disconnecting the tube from the bracket - there is a little rivet you'll need to grind off (I used a lawnmower blade sharpener attachment for my drill) and two tabs to pry up.

linewarbr · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:26 pm

Here is the link for the instructions:

http://www.steigerperformance.com/docs/ ... ctions.pdf

dritchie · **Posted:** Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:43 pm

Thanks Linewarbr,
I got it out, hooked it back up to the motor and rocked it back and forth for about ten minutes and it finally gave. I'll be ordering that kit from steiger.

Dave

Window Regulator

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